Ball Park cost estimate.

[Btzj02]

For those of you that have had this done by a independent machine shop. What is a ball park figure to expect for a block cleaning and inspection along with turning a crank? I would do all other work. I found a shop I like but they are reluctant to give me a price until I deliver the block and crank to the shop. That is understandable but price will be a factor before I decide to tear down the Old 8N51 Ford!
Thanks.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 08:43:10 12/15/20) For those of you that have had this done by a independent machine shop. What is a ball park figure to expect for a block cleaning and inspection along with turning a crank? I would do all other work. I found a shop I like but they are reluctant to give me a price until I deliver the block and crank to the shop. That is understandable but price will be a factor before I decide to tear down the Old 8N51 Ford!
Thanks.

Like the shop said that is hard to price without the items in hand but WABPG:

Thorough block cleaning and inspect - $100+.
Clean, inspect, grind, and polish crankshaft - $100+.

YMMV. The more thorough the inspection the more you will pay.

TOH

 

[Welding man]

My machine shop would grind the crank- clean and check the block and recondition rods for about $250.00. I have no idea what
others charge

 

[warbaby]

I Picked up 2 N cranks yesterday that cost me 140.oo each to have turned .

 

[Bill M. From Illinois]

I just had the crank magnafluxed, cleaned and polished and the separate charged was $90. With the rods checked and straightened,cam ground,set of main and rod bearings bearings,and a set of new rod nuts the charge was like $350 total.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Nobody has said a word about valve seats.
Please don't tell me that you are doing all of this fine precision work and just "lapping" the valves!!???
Inquiring minds want to know...

 

[1Rustic1]

(quoted from post at 05:43:10 12/15/20) but price will be a factor before I decide to tear down the Old 8N51 Ford!
Thanks.

S.W.A.G 1,500 to 1,800 everything a to z with you doing all work except machine shop > HEAD,BLOCK,CRANK etc.

Misc, stuff,clutch,carb etc,etc. n more etc.


S centric
W ild
A **
G uess

 

[TimInd]

IN NW Indiana, you will not get away from a $500 bill to do what you want.

 

[Btzj02]

Thanks for all the helpful feedback. I have gotten attached to this old machine and I suspect this work will eventually get done but the idea needs to ferment a little. Maybe next winter? Vanderpool, you bring up a good point. You encouraged me to do a complete valve job with the Neway cutters. You are correct, it was worth my time. While doing the valve job my burning oil issue was more evident but what also became evident is two of the exhaust seats will not withstand another cutting/lapping without being replaced.
And so it Goes
JB

 

[1Rustic1]

(quoted from post at 05:48:34 12/16/20) Thanks for all the helpful feedback. I have gotten attached to this old machine.
And so it Goes
JB

That in my opinion is worth every penny.

 

[Britman]

I had my NAA Golden Jubilee worked on by a machine shop this last year, Block cleaned, checked and rebored, new pistons and rings, new small end bushes and pins, Crankshaft reground with new bearings and a complete gasket set also the water pump studs were drilled out and retapped. The total cost was $900.00.This is just on the engine and it is still ongoing.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 12:39:37 12/16/20) I had my NAA Golden Jubilee worked on by a machine shop this last year, Block cleaned, checked and rebored, new pistons and rings, new small end bushes and pins, Crankshaft reground with new bearings and a complete gasket set also the water pump studs were drilled out and retapped. The total cost was $900.00.This is just on the engine and it is still ongoing.

Rebored? What happened to the sleeves?

TOH

 

[Britman]

The bores were a little out of round so the machine shop bored them out to 3.5 in.before they bought the new pistons which came with new sleeves which I have kept.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Rightly so on your shop being reluctant to ballpark an estimate because there are a few important components they have to determine first and the only way to do that is to have the actual parts in front of them to inspect. Pull the engine block, take it complete to your reliable shop guy. Or you can strip down the block with head and pistons removed too. They will remove all internal parts, have the block and head boiled, then inspected for cracks or welds from prior cracks. If either or both are cracked, you just added a huge expense on the repair estimate so you can't tell or give an estimate until that is done. Also, if the block will require reboring, that too adds an extra expense. Your shop will address the head too and test for cracks and if it needs to be re-checked as well. He can also recommend or supply new parts - cylinders, pistons, lifters, et al too. So you see how costs can add up quickly and you won't know until it gets inspected correctly. When I did my 1948 8N back in 2003, I did all the work myself except I took the block to an experienced shop to get boiled, inspected, and he ordered the correct rebuild kit as well. He installed the block with new cylinders, pistons, redressed the valves, adjusted the lifters, and did the oil pump rebuild as well and my cost was $1200.


Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Jock(OR)]

As J.P. Morgan replied when asked how much his yacht cost, "If you have to ask
how much it costs, you can't afford it."

 

[1Rustic1]

(quoted from post at 13:31:14 12/17/20) As J.P. Morgan replied when asked how much his yacht cost, "If you have to ask
how much it costs, you can't afford it."

A man has to start somewhere.