Ballast resister question

[StockdaleDave]

I have a 46 2N converted to 12V. 2 wire AC Delco alternator. Front 12V can coil. It quit while mowing acting like no power to starter button. Ceramic ballast resister was in about 3 pieces. Hmmm. Not good. Figured it was old and maybe the battery shifted and crunched a terminal. Bought a replacement Tisco (I know...China). Bolted it in and it ran for 10 seconds and acts the same again. No power to the starter button. Visual inspection shows no pinched wires. Ballast didn't blow to pieces- looks intact. Next logical problem child? Alternator? Coil? Bad Tisco resister? Thanks for any guidance anyone can provide.

 

[StockdaleDave]

OK metered the Tisco ballast resister. Starts at 1.6 ohms and drops down to 1.0 ohms.

 

[Royse]

Tell us what you mean by starter button.
The neutral safety switch by the shifter is mechanical.
If you are using that, then we can help you take measurements.
If it has been rewired another way, we need to know how it's wired.
Either way, the resistor should be in the ignition circuit.
The starter should still spin.

 

[StockdaleDave]

Tractor has been farmerized. It has a key ignition switch and a push button to start- neutral switch bypassed. I get 12V on both sides of the key switch and one side of the push button. Other side to frame ground. Multimeter shows 1.6 ohms that bleeds down to 1.1 ohms across the new resister. Coil shows 3.5 ohms across terminals. It is now intermittent. Starter will not even try to engage when the trouble shows itself. It ran for 5 minutes then quit again. Thanks for looking Royse.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Why are you using 2 resistors with a 12 volt coil? All you need is the oem ballast resistor. You've got too much resistance in the ignition circuit. See tip # 30.

As to the rest of your problem......well, I'm lost. I'm not at all sure how it's wired, so I can't offer any help there.
75 Tips

 

[HFJ]

the power for your starter button should be entirely unrelated to ignition or charging systems.

check the integrity of the ground from battery to tractor.

 

[StockdaleDave]

Agreed on it shouldn't have any difference. I guess what stumps me is it'll start and run then quit. Starter will not engage. When it cools it seems to start and run for a short time.

It's the quitting part that bugs me... when it quits running I get no starter function. When I get starter function it'll run til it quits then nothing till it cools. Odd. Off to check the ground again.

 

[StockdaleDave]

Maybe I am a bonehead but there is just one resistor on the firewall. It's ceramic. Been that way for 12 years. What makes you think I have 2 resistors? Curious. Thanks for thinking about it.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" What makes you think I have 2 resistors?"

Because you said: " Ballast didn't blow to pieces- looks intact. Next logical problem child? Alternator? Coil? Bad Tisco resister? "

Sounded like 2 resistors to me.

Because the ceramic resistor, Tisco resistor, whatever............is NOT a ballast resistor. It's a fixed resistor.
75 Tips

 

[StockdaleDave]

Gotcha. Bad terminology on my part. I meant the replacement ceramic didn't bust to pieces like the previous one. Hey It's over 100F down here. Thanks for your guidance.

 

[StockdaleDave]

FIXED.... I think. Multimeter on battery with tractor off showed 12.8V. With tractor on 12.8V. Alternator not putting out. OK it's running on the battery. When it cooled and started again I happened to push on the positive cable at the starter. Tractor stumbles. Wiggle the cable restores running. High resistance old crimp on factory end? Replaced cable and tractor just shredded half an acre with out dying. Alternator will get replaced tomorrow. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

I gave you advice on the other site and so again I'll say here for the sake of newbies especially...it's bad wiring. I'd also suggest you scrap out the 'farmerized' toggle switch and reconnect the SAFETY NEUTRAL STARTER BUTTON if not only for your safety but anyone else who might run the tractor. It is common sense...

TPD

 

[rvirgil_KS]

" Front 12V can coil"
"Coil shows 3.5 ohms across terminals"

If you have a common round can coil as opposed to the original coil that mounts on distributor, and that coil has 3.5 ohms between + and - you don't need any resistors

 

[Royse]

"Bad terminology on my part. I meant the replacement ceramic"

Glad to hear you got it running!
What Bruce was saying though is less to do about the teminology
and more to do with the type of resistor you have. It is fixed.

The original wire-wound ballast resistor mounted on the underside
of the dash and provided very low resistance at start up. Then as
it warmed up, it limited current through the coil to keep the coil
and points from burning up. Two different resistors entirely.

If you have a true 12V square can coil, this is the only resistor you need.

 

[StockdaleDave]

Appreciate the info. Guess I am used to the old Chrysler resistors from the 60s and 70s always being called ballast resistors at least down in Texas. Hard to give up old terms I reckon. The pic you posted shows the old factory style resistor that is still there but bypassed. Never really delved into it until now.Right now she runs right as rain so I am happy.
Old Chrysler Ballast resistors

 

[Royse]

Yup, we called them "ballast resistors" here in Michigan too.
Drove Chrysler products for years. Carried a spare in the glove box.
Always. Not the same reaction as the wire wound though.

To be honest, I have a 9N that has ran ever since I bought it on a
ceramic resistor without the original. I didn't know any better.
That's been eight or more years now.

But it is 6 volt and starts so easily that I don't really need the boost
at start-up time, which, many times, is the reason for converting to 12V.
If I ever have to convert it, it will have the wire wound.

Here's a short clip of it starting cold on 6V. [b:0299f7bd88]YouTube[/b:0299f7bd88]