Basic 4000 questions

[Bob in SD]

Hi all,

I just got one of these.

It"s a 4 cylinder (gas) and the guy thought it was a "63. I"m fairly ignorant when it comes to tractors in general, having owned only an 1940"s Farmall M in the past, so I need to start w/ the basics:


Books? Shop Manuals? Owners manuals? My farm store had the very thin I&T Shop Manual, which seems to cover lots of models w/ the 4000 thrown in as an afterthought. I read (on the net) that this tractor is very similar to the 801 and 901 series, and many of the pictures in this book look right, so at least it"s a start.

What other books would you recommend for basic maintenance?

What year is it anyway? The book says the model number and serial number are on the left front of the transmission. If I look there I see:

4 1102-5 which might be the model number? There is also a 4 digit number, with a diamond in front of and behind it, which I"m guessing is the serial number?

Looking in the above book, I see that the "4" means the 172 ci engine, which makes sense, the *1*** indicates agricultural (vs. industrial), the **10* indicates high clearance (I do have the drop boxes on the axles, so that makes sense). They then say *1**2 indicates a 5 speed (yep) with live PTO (my PTO stops when I put the clutch in, which isn"t what I was hoping for). No clue as to what the -5 means? Am I looking at this right? Anyplace I can look up the model year from the other numbers?

Are these: http://www.external_link/farm-tractors/000/2/6/262-ford-4000.html

beginning or end of year numbers?


It needs some tune-up and care, but looks to be in good shape overall. Is there an adjustment to add some tension to the throttle lever, it slips back up to idle if given the chance?

I"ll have more questions, but thanks for pointing me to someplace where I can find out the basics.

Bob

 

[NWMO 901 SOS]

(quoted from post at 10:13:56 08/20/08) Hi all,

I just got one of these.

It"s a 4 cylinder (gas) and the guy thought it was a "63. I"m fairly ignorant when it comes to tractors in general, having owned only an 1940"s Farmall M in the past, so I need to start w/ the basics:


Books? Shop Manuals? Owners manuals? My farm store had the very thin I&T Shop Manual, which seems to cover lots of models w/ the 4000 thrown in as an afterthought. I read (on the net) that this tractor is very similar to the 801 and 901 series, and many of the pictures in this book look right, so at least it"s a start.

What other books would you recommend for basic maintenance?

What year is it anyway? The book says the model number and serial number are on the left front of the transmission. If I look there I see:

4 1102-5 which might be the model number? There is also a 4 digit number, with a diamond in front of and behind it, which I"m guessing is the serial number?

Looking in the above book, I see that the "4" means the 172 ci engine, which makes sense, the *1*** indicates agricultural (vs. industrial), the **10* indicates high clearance (I do have the drop boxes on the axles, so that makes sense). They then say *1**2 indicates a 5 speed (yep) with live PTO (my PTO stops when I put the clutch in, which isn"t what I was hoping for). No clue as to what the -5 means? Am I looking at this right? Anyplace I can look up the model year from the other numbers?

Are these: http://www.external_link/farm-tractors/000/2/6/262-ford-4000.html

beginning or end of year numbers?


It needs some tune-up and care, but looks to be in good shape overall. Is there an adjustment to add some tension to the throttle lever, it slips back up to idle if given the chance?

I"ll have more questions, but thanks for pointing me to someplace where I can find out the basics.

Bob

Bob,

I like the Ford Service manual, about 460 pages, for working on these tractors, though I have limited experience. If your serial number is only 4 digits long you have a 62' as the numbers provided with a year are the beginning # for production. I used the list off this site under Research & Info (look to the left). Are you familiar with 2-stage clutches? I'm still learning, but the first portion of pedal travel will disengage the transmission while keeping power to your PTO. Depressing the pedal further, you will disengage the PTO as well. This allows a user to keep power to the PTO while contolling the speed or even stopping the tractor. It may be as simple as clutch pedal adjustment or you may have a sticking PTO clutch. Enjoy your new tractor, I know I enjoy my 60' 971.

HTH

Chris

 

[souNdguy]

Yep.. the 4cyl 4000's that are wf are simialr tot he 801.. and were produced 63-64 model years.. probably many produced late 62 after 01 production stopped.

do get a shop service manual, and a master parts catalog.. owners manual won't hurt none either.

These have a seperate trans, diff, and hyd sump.. just like an 801.. etc.

soundguy

 

[awhtx]

The -5 indicates that it left the factory with the wide front end. I'm at work so I don't have my books but I believe the dual wheel, narrow front end was standard and the single wheel and wide front ends were optional. Therefore if the tractor was originally equipped with a dual wheel, narrow front there was no suffix (-X) added to the model number and the single wheel got a -1 and the wide front got a -5 added to the model.
My 861D has the dual stage clutch, Live PTO and when I got it it acted like a single stage, non-live PTO. The clutch was worn out and that's why it acted that way. Also, there should be a clevis with 2 sets of holes on the end of the rod running from the clutch pedal to the throwout bearing shaft. The pin should be through the pair of holes that are closest to the rear axle. This will make the clutch pedal stand nearly straight up. You must have the pin in the aft hole for the Live PTO to function properly.

 

[john in la]

41102-5
4- 4000 all 4000 of this vintage have 172 cu in engines
1- built after Aug 1962 The 4000 built before Aug 1962 would have a 0 here
10- row crop tractor; this is the # that tells if it is industrial vs. agricultural vs row crop.
2- 5 speed with live PTO
5- dealer installed wide front end

If your serial # only has 4 numbers that means it was built from Aug 1962 to Nov 1962. Dec 1962 had all 5 number serial numbers.
Here is a list for you so you can see where your tractor fits in. The # listed is the first tractor built in that month
Aug 1962....1001
Sept 1962...2426
Oct 1962....4810
Nov 1962....7884
Dec 1962....10309

If you follow the throttle lever down to the pivot point you will see a friction disc. This disc most likely needs replacing to add tension to the lever.

Manuals for the thousand series of this vintage are hard to find. If you have problems get manuals for a 801 tractor. Your 4000 is nothing more than a updated 801 with some minor sheet metal changes. The mechanical parts are the same for the most part. I recomend Ford manuals over the IT manuals.

 

[MarkB_MI]

You can buy a brand new factory service manual directly from New Holland for 80 bucks. You're looking for publication number 40060090. Go to the link below and buy it, it's well worth the money.

Regarding your creeping throttle, most likely the friction disk is soaked with oil. Follow the throttle linkage to find it. You can take it apart and clean it with solvent, or replace it.
New Holland Tech Pubs

 

[Bob in SD]

I do have a working 2 stage clutch and "live" PTO. It seems to be working OK, but I will check out the linkage. The -5 also matches what I'm seeing since it does have the wide front end.

Where the throttle lever goes through the dash sheet metal there is what I had thought was a rubber grommet. Is this the friction disk that John is speaking of, or am I looking in the wrong place? I can see this from the driver's seat, with all the sheet metal in place?

The tractor came w/ a snowblower, but reverse gear seems a little high. Do these work OK in that application? I mainly wanted it for mowing, and the 3-point hitch (the ability to buy/borrow other implements).

It also came w/ a Ford 951 rotary mower. Is a 1/2 inch grade 2 bolt too big for the shear pin on that? It's a 6 foot mower, and the hole is 1/2 inch diameter. There was a 3/8s bolt in there to start w/ but it was breaking w/out me hitting anything (except grass). I think that was partially due to the bolt being so small compared to the hole, so the PTO could work up some speed before catching the second shaft. The new mowers at the generic farm store call for 1/2 inch grade 2, so I was going to try that unless advised otherwise.

How big of stuff can I safely cut w/ this? I've got one pasture w/ some 3 foot high, less than 1 inch diameter trees mixed in w/ the grass. We've cut that (two years ago w/ a similar amount of similarly sized trees) with a (newer, greener) mower w/ no problems. I definitely want to figure out the correct shear pin spec before trying that...

Thanks again for the help/advice. I'm sure I'll have more questions soon.

Bob

 

[john in la]

The friction disc is at the end of the throttle rod where it pivots. Part # 22

CNH shows a 1/2 x 3 1/2" G2 bolt for the 60" mower but a shear pin with a cotter pin for the 72" mower. The bolt will most likely work since you can get that local but the choice is yours.
With the proper shear pin this tractor should have no problem with 1" trees. I have cut much bigger one with my tractor.

In fact my reasoning goes like this.....
If it is small enough it bends over when the tractor goes over it; it is small enough for the brush cutter to cut it.

What's snow???? I am from Louisiana.

 

[Bob in SD]

Thanks John,

I'll check it out tomorrow. I grabbed a couple of 1/2 by 3 1/2 G2 bolts in town today (all I could find that big at home were grade 8 -- not shear pin material). Might as well get rid of those saplings before I sharpen the blades.

Glad to hear that LA is Louisiana, not Los Angeles. Snow isn't that bad, it's the 30 below mornings that have me wondering why I live here. It does keep the riff-raff out.

Are your pictures from the parts list that somebody advised that I buy?

Thanks,

 

[john in la]

The pictures are from a Ford/New Holland dealer web site in Pa.
Messick

 

[bAlatonmMN]

Hey john in la. If ya want to see what snow is, I could probubly get you some about febuary.
We'll have plenty of it up here in SWMN by then.LOL

 

[Bob in SD]

Thanks John,

My setup is similar to that, with a spring and (maybe) tension disk on the bottom of the fixed plate. The tension disk looked like dried up grease, and it disintegrated when I touched it. I took the assembly apart, cleaned it w/ kerosene and replaced the disk with a home-made leather disk, which is working (kinda/sorta) for now. I'll see about getting the correct piece, but I wanted to play with it tonight so put it back together with what I had on hand.

I used a 1/2 inch grade 2 for a shear pin. It's not breaking, so I'll assume that it will break OK if needed (since the smaller mowers use that). I mowed some of those saplings, and got some experience w/ the 2 stage clutch. I like it (compared to the non-live PTO power I had before).

Thanks for all the help.

I also have an annoying whine in reverse. Anything specific to check on that? The manual that somebody recommended is not available from the mail order site. I'll see if my dealer can get it when I check on the tension disk.

Thanks again,

 

[john in la]

OK that is great.
Here is the deal.........
You send me all the snow I can stand and I will send you all the HOT HUMID weather you can stand. I might even throw in a hurricane or two if you like.

Now if only we could figure out a way for the snow to arrive here in mid Aug; and the hot humid weather to get there in Feb; we will both be happy.

 

[john in la]

A annoying whine in reverse could be several things. Does it do it ONLY in reverse; or can you hear it better in reverse.
Sounds like it MIGHT be a bad reverse idler gear.

While I will not speak for the Quality because it is a re-print and this seller has been bad mouthed on this board in the past because of poor customer service you can sometimes find some of the manuals on E-bay.
For me $80 is a little steep but that is what Ford is getting for the manuals.
Here is a re-print on e-bay for $30
Might want to keep checking to see if another seller has one in the near future. Just make sure you get a manual for a pre 1964 4000. The 1965 and up manuals are NOT for your tractor.
Untitled URL Link

 

[Bob in SD]

I picked one of these up today, and it's much bigger than what I replaced. I found where it really goes, and tightened that castle nut (to increase the tension) w/out replacing the disk w/ the new one. I had the tach out, so didn't run it to see how much that helped.

I just wanted to make sure that nobody believed my previous claim that you could replace the tension disk w/ a scrap of leather! What I did just added more friction to the bottom of the actual throttle lever (at the bottom, down under the battery).That is working for now, but the original design looks to be a much better way...

I also scored a reprint of the owners manual. I'll keep looking for a "real" shop manual.

Thanks again,

Bob