batteries help advice

[PDRuff]

This is in my 2000 7.3 diesel I use for trailer and firewood. Have 2 batteries would not start truck consistently if below 20. since last fall (PO got batteries from advanced auto 3 year full replacement, just over 2 years old) plugged in and drove it to work one day when 20 was the high, had to jump start it to get home. I swapped out the 2 batteries that I use in my tractors; (3-5 years old) same CCA (825) ran truck for over a month even started at -15 no plug in. Tested charging system on truck no problems, starter good) fully charged original batteries put them back in, could tell not up to snuff compared to tractor batteries. Put tractor batteries back in. Took them to auto zone and tested, both batteries failed test. Took to advance auto, surprise they both tested "good?. any Ideas, Clerk told me I needed to clean the battery terminals and charge the batteries, I about throttled the clerk... then I showed him that both post were shiny and clean?.
Full warranty ends in October 2016. I just don?t want to be stuck in the woods...again
one other detail, with advance auto batteries I would get occasional transmission light for 3-5 minutes about 6 miles from home, then go out, when starting truck tach would jump. Tractor batteries never saw light it in 20+ trips, no tach jump.

 

[JD Seller]

The batteries are bad. It all depends on the style tester they have and the person operating it. You can make just about any battery show good if you set the tester wrong. At least on the newer digital ones you can. You just tell the tester the CCA is lower than the rated CCA and a bad battery will show good.

The best tester is a carbon pile tester. You can really apply a load to the battery and see how the voltage holds up.

 

[Bob Bancroft]

There could well be a problem in just one of the batteries. I just went to a battery seminar last week. They showed a modern electronic tester. I believe it cost over $1000! They still believe the ultimate battery test is a carbon pile load tester. Do you think you can find someone who has one?

 

[Bob Bancroft]

Sorry about that. I hate it when that happens! Your response appeared while I was writing mine! It takes me a while.

 

[Gary from Muleshoe]

Just keep pushing Advance, ask to speak to manager. Send a complaint to the head office explaining the batteries check bad elsewhere and will not start the truck. If possible ask for a print out from a reputable place like maybe a dealership. Don't give up, if it's possible go to a different Advance store and have them test them, they will soon give in and replace the batteries.

 

[Hobo,NC]

"The best tester is a carbon pile tester. You can really apply a load to the battery and see how the voltage holds up."

That would be above most folks pay scale that's why they went to electronic testers anyone can push a button and get a printout... Those Battery Conductance/Electrical System Analyzers are know to pass a bad battery and not dependable but a minimum wage worker in a quick lube bay can use it...

 

[John M]

Get 2 new batteries. You don't have the right to ask Advanced for them, you didn't buy them. As far as the light, are you talking about the OD off light blinking? That could be the batteries, but is most likely a different problem.

 

[Hobo,NC]

If the date code on the bats are there and still in warranty he does have the right...

 

[Gary from Muleshoe]

So if you buy a vehicle that has 50,000 miles on the odometer, with a 100,000 mile warranty on it , do you ignore the warranty because you didn't purchase the vehicle new? I don't think so, same goes for the batteries, a warranty is a warranty no matter what it is.

 

[John M]

He didn't buy them, so.....

 

[John M]

The AA warranty is only good for the original purchaser. He didn't buy them, so unless he lies about who he is, he cant get new ones.

 

[J.Wondergem]

I don't know about Advance, but I know NAPA will acknowledge the warranty of a battery, even if you didn't buy it. I figured everyone would.

 

[John M]

Please read the first paragraph.
Here

 

[K Effective]

From their website:
Advance Auto Parts Limited Warranty Policy

General Limited Warranty Period and Applicability
The warranty period is 90 days from your date of purchase or any longer warranty period that may be printed on your original sales receipt. During the warranty period, we will replace or refund, at our option, any new part that fails due to a defect in materials or workmanship under normal use and service after proper installation. Simply return the part along with your original sales receipt to any Advance Auto Parts store. [b:95dd0d4d55]You must be the original purchaser of the part and still own the vehicle on which it was installed. This warranty is not transferrable. [/b:95dd0d4d55]Replacement parts are warranted for 90 days from the date of exchange or the remainder of the warranty period on the original part, whichever is longer.

Refunds will only be considered if you bring the defective part to an Advance Auto Parts store along with your original sales receipt within 90 days from the original date of purchase. Refunds will be issued in accordance with our Refund Policy.

Battery Limited Warranty
The battery Free Replacement Period begins the day of purchase and expires at the end of the Free Replacement Period that is printed on your original sales receipt. This period does not renew when the battery is replaced during the Free Replacement Period. If the battery is found defective after the Free Replacement Period but prior to the end of the warranty period, a prorated credit will be issued that can be applied toward the purchase of a new battery. The prorated credit will be determined by dividing the original purchase price by the number of months of the warranty period, then multiplying the result by the months remaining in the warranty period. Partial months are rounded to the nearest whole month. Installation or use of an automotive battery in any other type of vehicle or equipment voids your warranty.



It never hurts to ask, and if the store chooses to honor the battery warranty, that would be their decision.

 

[Hobo,NC]

BATS ARE DATE CODED I stand by my statement... If I am buying a bat I want as close to the date I am buying stamped on the bat as I can get... It will be what they ALWAYS fall back on if its in question... Original buyer are not with out a recite date code is what they fall back on...

 

[notjustair]

I just went through this on the 4020. That thing would never start. You would get about three "wumps" and then it went downhill. They were JD strongbox batteries and I don't know, but they were probably 8 years old. I took them to Interstate and they tested them (I always buy their batteries unless they aren't open or something). They tested fine but I bought two new ones anyway. That was it - it's been starting better than it has for at least the last year. Those batteries tested fine but I knew they weren't. They didn't have the power reserve to start that diesel engine. I know they used a bigger load tester than mine, but their load tester came out testing just like mine did. Sometimes you just have that feeling you should spend the money and be through with the headache.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Probably the most misunderstood part of a bat... Amps push the starter to turn it takes at least 600 amps to start the push..

500 amps is all I can apply I usually (if the bat is fully charged and shows a full charge) nail it hard from the get go with all I have to bring it to its knees if it bounces back to close to initial full charge 12.6V I am done its a keeper...

 

[LarrySTN]

I agree a carbon pile tester does a good job. Too many think the wire resistance unit will tell them all they need to know, the wire units only
pull 100 amps which is many times less than most tractors or diesel pickups require. My electronic tester though cost about three times more
than my carbon pile. I have only used my carbon pile once since I bought my electronic tester, that was when my electronic battery tester
disappeared from the shop. I don't retail batteries, but trust my electronic every time. I did buy a new electronic.

 

[ASEguy]

The CCA is what you are looking for when you perform a load test. So they could have passed a load test, but inadequate for your equipment. I also agree with HOBO and buy the freshest battery on the shelf especially when it comes to batteries that see limited use. That means I go to the back ones on the shelf when I buy. When I bought my 6-volt battery from a store the front one was almost 1 year old and the back one was that current month.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

I used to buy Advance batteries but their quality went downhill about 3 years ago, have bought several batteries from Sams Club including the ones in my 1999 Powerstroke and they have done really well with no issues.I buy the highest CCA batteries I can
fit in whenever its going into a diesel tractor or truck BTW.

 

[jimg.allentown]

Those resistance wire testers only draw 100 amps. While they are fine for a quick test, that test is by no means comprehensive or accurate.
I have a carbon pile tester, and I can load a battery to its rated capacity. BUT, the tester is bulky and cumbersome to handle and use. But, it is accurate, and can test alternators and generators as well.
There is a world of difference in the testers.

 

[jacksun65]

You get the trans light because of low voltage. The batteries are shot. I would also consider replacing the alt, because it may not be putting out enough volts.

 

[farmer boy]

The only tester to have is a carbon pile. They may be old school, but they can apply an actual load to the battery, while monitoring the voltage. This is how it's actually going to perform under load.

 

[Robert Major]

Hi Hobo
Funny this topic comes up tonight I just had this very discussion last friday with a parts store guy and a battery rep. The new battery's wouldn't
start my tractor in a heated shop, before they died off bad. 2 year old battery's that had been outside in - 15 0c swapped right over with lower cca
fired it right up instantly. I charged and tested with my cheap load tester. I took the battery's back and said nothing about what I knew, they
tested with an idiot box, and it said recharge and re test. they did and called me and said they where fine. I said yeah warm in your shop. throw
them out overnight and re test. they did and said the voltage was 12.4 or closev to 12.5 and the cca was within a bit to, come get them

Somehow the rep got involved and I got told I was having 2 new batteries when I got there to pick mine up. The rep explained exactly what you said
about the voltage. I listened to what he said for quite a while about battery and test things. Then said to the guy ok thats why my cheap load
tester said these cca's were lower than the store tester then and the $500 idiot box has no clue.he said yes and the parts guy got educated to.

The funny thing is my buddy I was talking to tonight, said he has had quite a few shop customers get battery's tested by parts stores and they come
back good, the guys fit new starters and stuff and then guess what it's no better. My buddy gets called after the customers stuck.He load tests the
battery's properly surprise surprise, the battery's stuffed. I think some parts stores maybe use those testers to sell starters and alternators as
well !!!!!!!!.

 

[buickanddeere]

Amazing how this is not even an issue with a simple teo minute test with a volt meter. Can't get anybody to do the test however . I guess they think a voltmeter looks too much like a coiled rattle snake .
Measure voltage battery post to battery post before starting . Measure battery voltage post to post while cranking. Measure voltage across the starter main post to starter body while cranking.
Now where is the voltage drop?

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 18:44:51 02/23/16)
Amazing how this is not even an issue with a simple teo minute test with a volt meter. Can't get anybody to do the test however . I guess they think a voltmeter looks too much like a coiled rattle snake .
Measure voltage battery post to battery post before starting . Measure battery voltage post to post while cranking. Measure voltage across the starter main post to starter body while cranking.
Now where is the voltage drop?

Whut he said the vehicle is your load source... My tester is always handy to do a standalone test of the battery a long with a DVOM. If I were away from the shop a DVOM (are any volt meter) would do.
I preach this to the N guys who think the moon was set with a in-dash amp meter.