Battery 6v

[tiger56]

I still have the cut out but Jmor had me remove it when helping me with rewire and wire colored differently but it started.
I may have done more damage to that regulator than smoking a FLD wire which I fixed.

 

[used red MN]

Pulled ammeter off it is all plastic and rubber washers but I just broke off the needle. My other ammeter is metal so, don't want to use it.View attachment 125938

I can’t tell for certain but is the bridge that holds the gauge in aluminum or pot metal as so like to call it? Those studs would need insulated sleeves in their holes was there anything like that? This could very well be the source of the short in your wiring. This probably would not have cause the field wiring to burn but one never knows. Show us a picture of the “other gauge” explain why metal would lead you to not use it? Maybe it is an appearance thing?

 

[Jim.ME]

We were not privy to the conversation and help you had from JMOR so we need to understand things here. I marked up three of your pictures so we can all be on the same page as far as where the wires in these pictures go. Please let me know if how I marked them is right and provide the missing info for the others noted. We can start with these and go from here.

Did he send you a wiring diagram you are working from? If so, can you post a copy? If not have you made your own sketch of the wiring you have done? It would help to see such a drawing, more than just closeups of the wire ends.

 

[wore out]

I still have the cut out but Jmor had me remove it when helping me with rewire and wire colored differently but it started.
I may have done more damage to that regulator than smoking a FLD wire which I fixed.

If you are unaware, Jesse/JMOR passed away back in July. There's an entry down on the Memorial Page

 

[tiger56]

Okay, will do tomorrow, the 2 blue wires are to the key switch, in the dash column, that I know from testing wires, and on off switch.
The BAT yellow on regulator goes to the starter switch under battery connected together with negative terminal on battery, it's the wire that looked white in the above-mentioned photo so, there's a second yellow wire that I will trace, photo and post the wiring connections tomorrow.

 

[tiger56]

The yellow wire go to ammeter , blues go to start key switch, connect to resistor screws on inside dash, yellow from start switch to ammeter, yellow to A terminal on resistor, BAT yellow wire from REG to A on resistors as well.
My ground wire is Black from GEN terminal to chassis ground on frame and to REG.
My coil wire is Red from C on resistor to GEN terminal A,
* see photos *View attachment 126250View attachment 126254

 

[tiger56]

The broen black orange photo is only one from JMOR thatv I found from 2022

 

[Jim.ME]

To clarify about the resistor/junction block with three terminals. The top two are the resistor terminals which are wired in series between the ignition switch and coil power input terminal, as you have them. The third terminal is just a junction terminal to supply power to circuits, nothing to do with the resistor. It seems I have heard of an issue with some of those blocks where the head of that junction post can make contact with the surface behind it and cause a short. If it does make contact, that could cause the spark you mentioned when connecting the battery cable. To rule this out, undo the two bolts/screws that hold it in place and suspend it clear of everything then see if the spark you reported at the start of this thread has gone away.

 

[tiger56]

Okay. I did replace that resistor, it's new. I'll try it tomorrow
You know my black wire ground from
GEN goes to battery box and REG box on side of tractor. Could ground be wrong place?

 

[Jim.ME]

Okay. I did replace that resistor, it's new. I'll try it tomorrow
You know my black wire ground from
GEN goes to battery box and REG box on side of tractor. Could ground be wrong place?

If it goes from the generator's ground terminal to the same ground as the regulator, it is right.

You should say what terminal of the generator it is hooked to, not just saying black wire from generator.

 

[wore out]

If it goes from the generator's ground terminal to the same ground as the regulator, it is right.

You should say what terminal of the generator it is hooked to, not just saying black wire from generator.

"You should say what terminal of the generator it is hooked to, not just saying black wire from generator."


The O.P. has that info covered in his photo of the generator in Post #17 of this thread

 

[Jim.ME]

"You should say what terminal of the generator it is hooked to, not just saying black wire from generator."


The O.P. has that info covered in his photo of the generator in Post #17 of this thread

Ok, my error.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

We seem to have strayed away from the original complaint. Unless I missed the results, all you did was unhook the positive terminal and replace the fuel tank ....now you can't hook the battery back up.

There is also the possibility that the negative cable going down to the starter switch is rubbed raw , and you disturbed it while changing the tank , now is shorting out on something .

When you said you took all3 wires off and it still sparks , what did you remove the wires from?

 

[used red MN]

I can’t tell for certain but is the bridge that holds the gauge in aluminum or pot metal as so like to call it? Those studs would need insulated sleeves in their holes was there anything like that? This could very well be the source of the short in your wiring. This probably would not have cause the field wiring to burn but one never knows. Show us a picture of the “other gauge” explain why metal would lead you to not use it? Maybe it is an appearance thing?

I know Jim.ME is trying to get an over-all assessment of what you have going on. But could you please answer what the part I circled is made from. Is it some kind of metal that would conduct electricity? If so this could be one of higher possible causes of your short to chassis ground (causing the sparking when you were connecting your battery.
EDIT: In further review I see you may have answered in reply 40 but not real clearly. I took the way you said “all plastic” as meaning the body of the gauge is plastic. I suppose you could mean the gauge and bridge are both plastic. Sorry, for the misunderstanding.

 

[tiger56]

I know Jim.ME is trying to get an over-all assessment of what you have going on. But could you please answer what the part I circled is made from. Is it some kind of metal that would conduct electricity? If so this could be one of higher possible causes of your short to chassis ground (causing the sparking when you were connecting your battery.
EDIT: In further review I see you may have answered in reply 40 but not real clearly. I took the way you said “all plastic” as meaning the body of the gauge is plastic. I suppose you could mean the gauge and bridge are both plastic. Sorry, for the misunderstanding.

Yes, it is all plastic except threads and magnet in between, the whole needle piece is plastic, only th cap is metal but doesn't touch body.

 

[tiger56]

Regulator wires , white., red., yellow
I will check starter wire had trouble once when had it rebiult needed plastic washer.

 

[tiger56]

"You should say what terminal of the generator it is hooked to, not just saying black wire from generator."


The O.P. has that info covered in his photo of the generator in Post #17 of this thread

Here's diagram mimicked from Steiner Harness FDS470 for 9N

 

[Fritz Maurer]

If you like, try this: disconnect all wires from starter switch. Hook up the ground cable . Replace the wires on the starter switch one at a time until one of them sparks . Follow that wire to the problem.

It is possible that a stuck regulator will try to energized the generator and cause sparks like you describe, but... as far as I know you never had a chance to start the motor, so it wouldn't be that.

Apologize if this is redundant and already covered; the conversation is jumping all over the place and I kinda lost track of what is going on. I am basing this comment on the fact that you said you disconnected the ground cable to remove the tank; can only assume that the electrical system contained no shorts when the job commenced. It would appear to be something as simple as a terminal got bumped or a wire got pinched sometime during the installation.

 

[tiger56]

Agree , need to figure + voltage ground feed path from starter wire to battery negative seems to have direct short to chassis I'm thinking?

 

[Jim.ME]

Agree , need to figure + voltage ground feed path from starter wire to battery negative seems to have direct short to chassis I'm thinking?

Did you check to see if the junction terminal stud was touching behind the block as I suggested in post #48? Check it, if only to rule it out.