Battery 6v

[tiger56]

I pulled screws from resistor mount and left it floating also left ground wire on chassis from GEN post when connecting the negative terminal it didn't arc at first the I see an arc at the starter switch connection under battery box. This also has the yellow wire to ammeter + on that connector too. So, it ia a smaller arcing than before.
I have black ground wire from GEN to body chassis is that correct?

 

[tiger56]

Did you check to see if the junction terminal stud was touching behind the block as I suggested in post #48? Check it, if only to rule it out.

Okay, I left positive ground battery terminal on tractor at frame chasis and started removing wires one by one touching negative battery terminal to see if arcing still.
I removed everything except the following and it's still arcing:
1.) The negative thick starter cable
to start switch under battery holder,
2.) The generator wires red, white, black on regulator. but removed it's connections to ammeter, resistor and start switch yellow wire.
Removed start key wires as well.
IT IS STILL ARCING ?
So, What is left,
The thick starter positive cable from starter that connects on start switch under battery box.
The start switch itself never replaced, which has burn mark on it, where starter cable connects.
The generator has wires to regulator but I removed all other wiring connections.
Is it the starter or switch causing arcing when I touch to battery negative terminal or something else???

 

[tiger56]

We seem to have strayed away from the original complaint. Unless I missed the results, all you did was unhook the positive terminal and replace the fuel tank ....now you can't hook the battery back up.

There is also the possibility that the negative cable going down to the starter switch is rubbed raw , and you disturbed it while changing the tank , now is shorting out on something .

When you said you took all3 wires off and it still sparks , what did you remove the wires from?

Okay, I left positive ground battery terminal on tractor at frame chasis and started removing wires one by one touching negative battery terminal to see if arcing still.
I removed everything except the following and it's still arcing:
1.) The negative thick starter cable
to start switch under battery holder,
2.) The generator wires red, white, black on regulator. but removed it's connections to ammeter, resistor and start switch yellow wire.
Removed start key wires as well.
IT IS STILL ARCING ?
So, What is left,
The thick starter positive cable from starter that connects on start switch under battery box.
The start switch itself never replaced, which has burn mark on it, where starter cable connects.
The generator has wires to regulator but I removed all other wiring connections.
Is it the starter or switch causing arcing when I touch to battery negative terminal or something else???

 

[tiger56]

If you are unaware, Jesse/JMOR passed away back in July. There's an entry down on the Memorial Page

Okay, I left positive ground battery terminal on tractor at frame chasis and started removing wires one by one touching negative battery terminal to see if arcing still.
I removed everything except the following and it's still arcing:
1.) The negative thick starter cable
to start switch under battery holder,
2.) The generator wires red, white, black on regulator. but removed it's connections to ammeter, resistor and start switch yellow wire.
Removed start key wires as well.
IT IS STILL ARCING ?
So, What is left,
The thick starter positive cable from starter that connects on start switch under battery box.
The start switch itself never replaced, which has burn mark on it, where starter cable connects.
The generator has wires to regulator but I removed all other wiring connections.
Is it the starter or switch causing arcing when I touch to battery negative terminal or something else???

 

[used red MN]

Okay, I left positive ground battery terminal on tractor at frame chasis and started removing wires one by one touching negative battery terminal to see if arcing still.
I removed everything except the following and it's still arcing:
1.) The negative thick starter cable
to start switch under battery holder,
2.) The generator wires red, white, black on regulator. but removed it's connections to ammeter, resistor and start switch yellow wire.
Removed start key wires as well.
IT IS STILL ARCING ?
So, What is left,
The thick starter positive cable from starter that connects on start switch under battery box.
The start switch itself never replaced, which has burn mark on it, where starter cable connects.
The generator has wires to regulator but I removed all other wiring connections.
Is it the starter or switch causing arcing when I touch to battery negative terminal or something else???

Please don’t place this same reply to any more members. ONCE IS GOOD EVERYONE CAN SEE IT!

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Okay, I left positive ground battery terminal on tractor at frame chasis and started removing wires one by one touching negative battery terminal to see if arcing still.
I removed everything except the following and it's still arcing:
1.) The negative thick starter cable
to start switch under battery holder,
2.) The generator wires red, white, black on regulator. but removed it's connections to ammeter, resistor and start switch yellow wire.
Removed start key wires as well.
IT IS STILL ARCING ?
So, What is left,
The thick starter positive cable from starter that connects on start switch under battery box.
The start switch itself never replaced, which has burn mark on it, where starter cable connects.
The generator has wires to regulator but I removed all other wiring connections.
Is it the starter or switch causing arcing when I touch to battery negative terminal or something else???

Remove the negative heavy cable from the start switch. Attatch positive ground cable to tractor chassis. Attach negative heavy cable to battery. Remove 14ga wire from post on switch. Remove heavy cable leading to starter from starter switch. Now, touch the negative heavy cable from the battery to the post it was attached to. Arc- means switch is defective and grounded. No arc- touch the heavy starter cable to the other post. Arc- means switch is closed or defective and trying to energize the starter when you hook up the cable. No Arc? Switch is ok for the moment. Now, touch the 14ga. Wire to the post on the switch , that leads to the battery and if it arcs , follow it until you find the short.

 

[Crookedwrench]

Before you begin troubleshooting, disconnect the ground cable from wherever it is screwed to the tractor, and attach both cable clips to the pole battery. We just had a topic on exploding batteries, and given your severe arcing problem, under the right circumstances the battery could go off in your face. Making and breaking the connection away from explosive materials will keep you from damaging the tractor or your body.

 

[Non-farmer]

@tiger56 adding usernames in this form to your post allows you to notify multiple people without having to repeat the same post to each of them.

 

[used red MN]

Okay, I left positive ground battery terminal on tractor at frame chasis and started removing wires one by one touching negative battery terminal to see if arcing still.
I removed everything except the following and it's still arcing:
1.) The negative thick starter cable
to start switch under battery holder,
2.) The generator wires red, white, black on regulator. but removed it's connections to ammeter, resistor and start switch yellow wire.
Removed start key wires as well.
IT IS STILL ARCING ?
So, What is left,
The thick starter positive cable from starter that connects on start switch under battery box.
The start switch itself never replaced, which has burn mark on it, where starter cable connects.
The generator has wires to regulator but I removed all other wiring connections.
Is it the starter or switch causing arcing when I touch to battery negative terminal or something else???

Make this easy on yourself. Do you have a test light? You should, connect it between the battery cable terminal and its battery post you are touching it to when checking for the arc. The goal will be to make the test light stop lighting.
Disconnect the large cable to the starter off of the start switch and the yellow wire, did the light go out? It should if the start switch is not shorted internally. If it does go out reconnect everything back as before. Then move up to the resistor block and start removing other wires to see what makes the light go out. The steps to do this are clear to me but to lay it all out step by step would take a lot of typing.
Edit to add: You have to remember that more than one circuit can be causing your problem, somewhat unlikely, but possible. Such as in the case of the resistor you can’t just unhook one wire and put it back assuming it was not the problem if the test light didn’t go out. You have to remove it, leave it off then remove another one until all the possible paths are eliminated. I have faith that you can proceed with this test method and figure out where the problem lies.
The test light in the series connection at the battery and terminal can be left connected like this while you test. If you short or cross connect anything there will not be a shower of sparks the only thing that happens is the test light will illuminate.

 

[tiger56]

Make this easy on yourself. Do you have a test light? You should, connect it between the battery cable terminal and its battery post you are touching it to when checking for the arc. The goal will be to make the test light stop lighting.
Disconnect the large cable to the starter off of the start switch and the yellow wire, did the light go out? It should if the start switch is not shorted internally. If it does go out reconnect everything back as before. Then move up to the resistor block and start removing other wires to see what makes the light go out. The steps to do this are clear to me but to lay it all out step by step would take a lot of typing.
This can be left connected like this while you test. If you short or cross connect anything there will not be a shower of sparks the only thing that happens is the test light will illuminate.

Okay I'll try it tomorrow. Going to buy new cable and start switch too before sending to shop repair.

 

[used red MN]

@tiger56 adding usernames in this form to your post allows you to notify multiple people without having to repeat the same post to each of them.

I’m sure the info about preceding a members username with the “@“ symbol to alert them is helpful. If a member such as Fritz uses the features of the software as I would suggest leaving all alerts checked in your preferences, anytime someone replies to a thread they are participating in they will get an alert. You are correct that the OP may not know this but if he ever clicked on his “Alert bell” he would figure it out.

 

[tiger56]

Removed start switch rubber shield worn out causing arc.
Fix installed and started right up.
Thanks all for help.

 

[used red MN]

Removed start switch rubber shield worn out causing arc.
Fix installed and started right up.
Thanks all for help.

Glad to hear you got it fixed, happen to take any photos of the “rubber shield” that was giving you the problem? Having them posted here would help others in the future.

 

[Non-farmer]

Removed start switch rubber shield worn out causing arc.
Fix installed and started right up.
Thanks all for help.

Glad it's working now. Your tractor is a beauty

PS: If you ever get bored, feel free to come here and paint mine

 

[MARK ROBKE]

I Ahmed out all wires and no open in yellow, white, or red wires from regulator to generator.

Ohm the hot side wires-in this case the negative-to ground. One of them will be near zero-complete circuit. That will be your problem wire. Mark.

 

[used red MN]

Ohm the hot side wires-in this case the negative-to ground. One of them will be near zero-complete circuit. That will be your problem wire. Mark.

Read/look at all the replies, says he found the problem and fixed it in reply 72. I don’t understand what he means by his explanation, but I am not real familiar with these old Fords.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Read/look at all the replies, says he found the problem and fixed it in reply 72. I don’t understand what he means by his explanation, but I am not real familiar with these old Fords.

Yeah-when I decided to reply, there was no solution posted. After I made my reply, then his solution appeared. So, I did see he fixed it, before my reply posted. Mark.

 

[used red MN]

Yeah-when I decided to reply, there was no solution posted. After I made my reply, then his solution appeared. So, I did see he fixed it, before my reply posted. Mark.

I was wondering if maybe you were a user of “Threaded View” before. I was and now have to make sure when a thread get some length that I check for multiple pages of replies.