Battery drain...why?

Yeah, thats where my mind is going with this. Just ordered some 8ga wire and plan to wire it 3-wire, just got some diodes to run in the line.
Must be the big stereo amplifier and the aircraft landing lights that require that heavy wire.
 
My local Gen/Alt/Starter man says he only orders the type of regulators for 10si and 12si alternators that will works both ways, one-wire or three-wire. If you use it one-wire the engine will have to be revved some to make it start charging, and to wire it three-wire, it will start charging as soon as it starts at a low RPM. I prefer it three-wire myself. FYI, to check for a draw from your battery, take off the positive cable---take a test light---touch the probe to the positive post, and the ground clip to the positive cable. If the light burns with everything turned off----you have a draw on the battery-----if it doesn't light up the battery doesn't have a draw.
Just FYI when you check for a draw using a test light as DN-N has stated it needs to be a test light with an incandescent bulb. An LED test light will activate on such a low amount of current that you may never actually get it to not light. That is more of a precaution for checking for a draw in an automotive application, but it all depends on the actual residual draw that this fancy “either way” internal regulator had.
Per Eman’s post, a 10 ga lead for the charge circuit lead to your alternator is quite adequate. If you use an 8 gauge you better have it protected with a fusible link. Hard telling what all it would weld through if it ever shorted out.
 

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Sounds like that is the problem since in all my years I have NEVER seen or hear of an alternator that can be wired up either way so something must be wrong with it

since he said he had reached out to the manufacturer who gave him this info, that infers that u believe u believe u know more about what they manufacturer than they do. or did i misunderstand?
 
Might be your browser not allowing you to view a "Not Secure" webpage.
nope- well, that IS what it is, but i have always been able to tell it "it's ok, let me thru" - but not this time. according to my hired thugs, those guys signed their own certificate.
 
The amount of the draw might be a clue. Hook an ammeter in "between" the grounded battery cable and the battery with ignition switch off and measure it.
 
The amount of the draw might be a clue. Hook an ammeter in "between" the grounded battery cable and the battery with ignition switch off and measure it.
That should have been done before May 23. Whether 3 wire or one wire, they all have a 24-7 drain, but so low that battery will die of old age (about 11 years as 10si factory install), but still months to 4 years, depending on who's one wire.
 
nope- well, that IS what it is, but i have always been able to tell it "it's ok, let me thru" - but not this time. according to my hired thugs, those guys signed their own certificate.
Was able to find a free online converter so here are the three pages in pdf. Hope this works for you:-)
 

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Really appreciate everyone's inputs ill try and get to all the things to look at soon and report back. My Hope goes beyond just getting my thing fixed but that hopefully all the things included in this thread will help somebody else I appreciate it you all once again and look forward to continuing to assist the community where I can and gain assistance as well thank you
 
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