Battery size equivalent for a group 26

[zoomeroo]

My 841 had a group size 26 battery. It needs replaced.

Is there another battery that will fit in the same space and be better than "the cheap line" of batteries.
The best warranty I can find is only 2 years.

 

[Jim L WA]

I have had real good service with batteries from COSTCO, which I think are Interstate. The trick with any battery is to not let them sit for prolonged times in a semi discharged state. If you can get your tractor to electricity, invest in a battery maintainer such as a Battery Tender or Battery Minder. I have seen that there are solar energized ones that can be used also.

 

[Steve Metcalfe]

I run an automotive repair shop and most all the new batteries are only a 2 year warranty now days. I would highly recommend NAPA or OReillys top of the line batteries.

 

[Steve in IL]

Just bought a battery for the Ford at Walmart. 3 year free, plus 2 additional pro-rated. Would have rather bought it elsewhere, but local car parts stores would match warranty or price.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

You need a strong battery to:

1. Spin the starter
2. Engage the Bendix
3. Provide voltage to the coil.

Tips on battery care and performance:
As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition. It doesn't really matter much if the battery is "fully charged" until you test it correctly. 4 Volts is an almost dead unit. Bench test under load and specific gravity must be tested. Your trusty local starter/alternator shop can bench test it on their special machine, usually at no charge ?no pun intended. No matter what else you do, the battery must be fully charged. Cheap brands are prone to poor lifespans. The TSC and Wally World ones are the worst. 7 years is a good run for a 6V battery. Briefly in a nutshell, you want a GP-1 6V AG battery -no Deep Cycle or RV/Golf Cart types. I suggest you invest in one of the better brands. Those would be DEKA, INTERSTATE, EAST PENN/DURACELL, or EXIDE. I'm not sure who makes the NAPA one but I've heard good things about it. Get at least a 550-750 CCA with the average cost at about $125. A 12V battery is GRP25 or GRP 35.

A fully charged 6v battery should read about 6.3 - 6.6 volts. In order to get that charge level, your v/r must allow 7.2 volts to the battery. Specific gravity should be 1.24 - 1.28 on each cell. A hydrometer is used but your shop has the machine to test under load. Battery cables are important too. 6V cables are thick as your thumb due to current used and the ground is a braided flat strap. SEE DENNIS CARPENTER or nnalert. Clean all the grounds & the battery posts. 6V mantra: Clean, bright, and tight.
The best thing you can do to prolong a battery is to invest in a float charger. Not a trickle charger. DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER JR. is the 6V unit and priced about $30.

A float charger is helpful; not a trickle charger, but a float charger. The DELTRAN Battery Tender Jr. ? ? is a popular brand, available at Walmart. A battery charger, even a "trickle" charger, left unattended will eventually boil out a battery. I use float chargers for two reasons: battery longevity and a sure start. Battery sulfation occurs at a specific rate at "X" temperature. Over time, sulfation reduces battery performance and eventually its effects are irreversible. Sulfation of batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or voltage measures less than 12.4 for a 12v battery, or 6.2 for a 6 volt battery. Sulfation hardens on the battery plates reducing and eventually destroying the ability of the battery to generate current. Using a float charger significantly reduces sulfation. Your battery loses 33 percent of its power when the temperature dips below freezing, and over 50 percent of its power when the temperature falls below zero. A fully charged battery will not freeze until -76?F; however, a fully discharged battery can start to freeze at 32?F. So??keep the battery fully charged! If you have a digital volt meter, 6.03 volts on a 6 volt battery and 12.06 volts on a 12 volt battery are only 25% charged!

If you can?t remember the last time you replaced the battery cables, it?s time to do it. Just because the terminals are clean doesn?t mean there is no corrosion under the insulation. And, this is another case where size matters. 6V battery cables must be HD thick as your thumb. A charged battery, clean positive grounds, & new cables aren?t going to mean much if the tractor needs a tune-up. At a minimum, every fall, remove the cap, check the points for pitting or burning, re-gap them & put a dab of lube on the cam. (BTW?..if you?ve wondered why some folks get years of use out of a set of points.

Things that aren?t all that important in warm weather become serious when it gets cold?like timing. A few degrees of timing either way at 60?F or 70?F isn?t likely to result in a ?no-start? situation. Well, it can at 10?F or 20?F. Check the timing!
Distributor gaskets are important on a sidemount & critical on a front mount, as is the gasket under the coil. Just like with the battery cables?.if you can?t remember when you replaced the gaskets, do it this year.
*archived info from Bruce(VA)

BATTERY TENDER JR (6V) BY DELTRAN:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Texasmark1]

I crank my tractors up at least once a month if that has been non-useage times for it/them, for battery recharging, seal lubrication, and to keep contaminants in engine oil in suspension.....otherwise they will fall out of the oil and accumulate as sludge on the bottom of the crankcase.....just what was on the bottom of the 3910 I mentiioned in the brake not working post this morning. I run them till they get up to operating temp, thermostat open and fluid circulating. In the winter I put cardboard in front of the radiator to assist in getting up to temp. Then I drive them around a bit and exercise the PTO. I only have one with cab and AC and it gets used in the winter so the AC gets run along with everything else on a regular basis.