belt driven generator

I'm curious how feasible it would be to a generator with bad engine (small generator like 5000 watts) and convert it to a belt driven unit. I don't have one to look at but I'm wondering if the generator armature is supported on both ends by bearings or if the engine it is bolted to supports that end. Also being belt driven it would be spun backward from it's original design is that a problem?
 
It's cheaper to go and purchase a new Champion generator than it is to obtain an engine, a generator and rig a drive.

Bucks ahead, has warranty and isn't a one off project that only you can operate and service.
Most small gen sets only have one bearing.
 
I did something like that once. Went with sprockets and chain to drive it off the back of a tractor, but I'm sure a belt would work just as good if you get the right ratio. The alternator was a cheap Homelite and I had to build a support for the shaft. Also it didn't work going backwards.

I built another one after that using an alternator from Harbor Freight. They can turn in either direction.
 

Most small engine mounted generators hang on the engine crank and the only bearings are the main crank bearings. the end of the crank is tapered, and there is a cap screw in the end of the crank that holds the armature on the crank shaft.
So if one wanted to you could remove the piston and connecting rod, add a pulley to the fly wheel end of the crank shaft and it would work.

I like having a belt or PTO driven generator so you don't have a dedicated engine that sits around until it's needed, then you hope it will start.

There are v-belt driven available, Grainger for one place.
I have a 4000 watt one that has Montgomery Wards on it. I've got it set up to run with my 17 hp garden tractor. You need 2 hp per 1000 watts.

Dusty
 
As the others said, one bearing in those so the engine end will need a bearing and mount to be belt driven. Might be easier to source an engine that fits? Pretty sure the mount and taper is standard but there are several sizes. Seems like the vast majority of the time the gen head goes bad before the engine so should notbe a tough find.
 
It is a direct drive off of the main engine. Only bearing is at the very end of the rotor. The front part of the rotor has no bearing. Iy is held up by the rear main bearing.
 
Thanks everyone. As buickanddeere said it's cheaper to buy one with an engine rather than make one. But as Dusty MI said I kinda like the idea of a belt drive one. I don't need another small engine around her to worry about. I have an old wheel horse that's used frequently and always ready to go. Due to the belt and front implement mounts on the Wheel Horse I could sling one off the front and belt drive it letting the generators weight hold the tension on the belt. It's been something I've wanted to do but it seems like it's going to be a lot of work and money for something that might not work as well as a purchased generator. I like the idea of taking the piston out and putting a pulley on the flywheel of the engine. Well this kind of project would be great if I can find a generator for really cheap with a blown engine--and that's not likely.

Thanks again everyone!
 
Front mount generator was a wheel horse accessory years ago, snaps on the front quick attach were the mule drive for the deck normally goes. Thought that would be better than a stand alone generator because between grass and snow our Wheel horse is always ready to go. Alas I've never had the money in my pocket when I have seen one for sale.
 
I have an 8-Kw Dayton(Winco built) 2 bearing generator that was designed to be freestanding and it is belt driven from a 20 hp Onan model NH. I run it as a 2:1 overdrive ratio turning the engine at 1800rpm and the generator at 3600 and it is much quiter and more fuel efficent that way. Been running it since the 70s as a standby generator plus an occasional prime power for some building jobs,
 
A friend gave me an ancient belt drive generator. I always wanted to bracket it to the front of my Wheel Horse, but for some reason haven't found the initiative to do it. I think it's only 2500 watts/120 volts. It's a heavy rascal. . .
 
I just looked at Grainger's web site. They have 4000 watt and up with 120/240 volt. Smaller ones are 120 volt only.

Mine I can have 120/230 or flip a switch and have 120 volts only at 4000 watts.

Dusty
 
It would be much cheaper to just buy a new one. I would also be concerned about belt slippage and side load on the bearings. I would doubt they are designed for that.
 
i was thinking if a person had scrap metal laying around, and time/something to tinker with, why couldn't they make a bracket for a PTO and run off it,, or/as for a belt pulley, mount it on the spinning direction the Genny runs.. yes you can buy one cheaper, or find one that someone is selling,, but as you said, thinking about it...
 
Won't work as far as removing piston and rod with out getting oil to main bearings. Most use a dipper on rod cap for oil to do it.
 
Why not just find yourself an electric motor and use that to make a generator, There is many of them that already run off from a pulley system and will make power when turned, That can be turned with wind or engine power, Then small motor that comes in one of them walking/running Machines is great for this.
 
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