Bent chainsaw bar <--fix or replace?

[WI Dan]

I was given this Stihl MS250.
I noticed it doesn't cut well, figured the chain was dull. Then I noticed the last six inches of the bar were skewed, bent. I put a straightedge on it: over a quarter inch crooked.
I wedged it in between heavy iron, tried bending it back: no go.
Can this be straightened with basic tools?
Or should I buy a new bar? If so: what kind? OEM Stihl, or an Oregon, or something else?
The saw will be used for firewood. Not a daily money maker.

 

[Jim.ME]

I was given this Stihl MS250.
I noticed it doesn't cut well, figured the chain was dull. Then I noticed the last six inches of the bar were skewed, bent. I put a straightedge on it: over a quarter inch crooked.
I wedged it in between heavy iron, tried bending it back: no go.
Can this be straightened with basic tools?
Or should I buy a new bar? If so: what kind? OEM Stihl, or an Oregon, or something else?
The saw will be used for firewood. Not a daily money maker.

Buy a new bar. For your use, Stihl, Oregon, Husqvarna, Forester, or most any new bar will be better than messing around trying to straighten that bar. If that is the OEM Stihl bar, generally the info you need for a replacement bar is stamped in it back near the saw head end. Length, chain pitch, and drive tang width is on most of them, which along with the saw model should get you a match.

 

[neverfear]

I was given this Stihl MS250.
I noticed it doesn't cut well, figured the chain was dull. Then I noticed the last six inches of the bar were skewed, bent. I put a straightedge on it: over a quarter inch crooked.
I wedged it in between heavy iron, tried bending it back: no go.
Can this be straightened with basic tools?
Or should I buy a new bar? If so: what kind? OEM Stihl, or an Oregon, or something else?
The saw will be used for firewood. Not a daily money maker.

New bar and chain and be all set. I wouldn't risk the potential injury if that thing threw the chain while in use.

 

[DanielW]

Replace. They never straighten up properly; even when they look and seem OK, the slight bend in them will cause the guides on the chain to wear fast, get sloppy, and burn up chains frequently. As far as brands, doesn't really matter for thaf saw. The MS250 is a great farm saw, but it's still a smaller saw from Stihl's mid-range line - nothing you're going to use for logging hardwood all day every day, where bar hardness and longevity is more critical.

 

[Keith True]

I would just straighten it out.I do them in a press in my shop,but all the loggers I worked for just straighten them in the woods.They make a slot straight down in the top of a stump,stick the bar in as far as it needs to be,and whack it sideways.I've seen a crew pinch and bend a half dozen bars in a day working nasty twisted wood.New choppers will bend a lot of them too.I have an assortment of new sprocket nose tips,and a bar facing table.Looks like a little table saw with a stone in it.You slide the bar against the stone to true up the surfaces where the bar rides.You could spend a fortune throwing a bar away everytime you did something stupid and bent one.

 

[scootergmc]

Replace.

 

[38 Sears Roebuck]

That bar is toast. Even if and I mean if you can straighten it, it still won't be right. You'll create friction and destroy a good chain in the process. Save yourself some frustration and bite the bullet for a new bar.

 

[Duner Wi]

I have straightened them and seemed to work fine for years.

 

[abuelo]

I would take the saw to my favorite small engine shop and replace bar and chain. Don’t need a death machine. Remember that inventor ? lol

 

[Chris NW Ind]

That is a laminated bar, made of 3 sections, 2 sides and a middle, spot-welded. Pretty much impossible to straighten. Loggers will be using solid, milled bars that can be straightened. Buy a new bar.

Fun fact, I straightened a Disston 2 man by laying one end over a block of wood and driving my Super C front wheel up the bar. That did not readily straighten.

 

[WI Dan]

Buy a new bar. For your use, Stihl, Oregon, Husqvarna, Forester, or most any new bar will be better than messing around trying to straighten that bar. If that is the OEM Stihl bar, generally the info you need for a replacement bar is stamped in it back near the saw head end. Length, chain pitch, and drive tang width is on most of them, which along with the saw model should get you a match.

Here's what I found on the back end:
831W
4717

 

[WI Dan]

Replace. They never straighten up properly; even when they look and seem OK, the slight bend in them will cause the guides on the chain to wear fast, get sloppy, and burn up chains frequently. As far as brands, doesn't really matter for thaf saw. The MS250 is a great farm saw, but it's still a smaller saw from Stihl's mid-range line - nothing you're going to use for logging hardwood all day every day, where bar hardness and longevity is more critical.

The bar and chain got really hot when I test ran it for 10 minutes.

 

[WI Dan]

That is a laminated bar, made of 3 sections, 2 sides and a middle, spot-welded. Pretty much impossible to straighten. Loggers will be using solid, milled bars that can be straightened. Buy a new bar.

Fun fact, I straightened a Disston 2 man by laying one end over a block of wood and driving my Super C front wheel up the bar. That did not readily straighten.

View attachment 91216

This makes sense, thank you.

 

[WI Dan]

I have straightened them and seemed to work fine for years.

I think I'll keep this one for a backup.

 

[WI Dan]

I would just straighten it out.I do them in a press in my shop,but all the loggers I worked for just straighten them in the woods.They make a slot straight down in the top of a stump,stick the bar in as far as it needs to be,and whack it sideways.I've seen a crew pinch and bend a half dozen bars in a day working nasty twisted wood.New choppers will bend a lot of them too.I have an assortment of new sprocket nose tips,and a bar facing table.Looks like a little table saw with a stone in it.You slide the bar against the stone to true up the surfaces where the bar rides.You could spend a fortune throwing a bar away everytime you did something stupid and bent one.

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Jim.ME]

Here's what I found on the back end:
831W
4717

The info, on my Stihl bars, is forward of the slot, just visible when the bar is installed.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

replace my uncle only has a thumb because he was wearing good leather gloves. I had just seen him bend it back straight between the Chevy bumper and head back to the tree. Had to go get stitches. Even a good stihl bar you could buy 4 for one trip in to the dr. Besides I’m betting there’s a million combos for a good brand you can set it up now how you want it shorter bar longer bar. Even my little makita cordless had a 16 inch bar and it got a cheap oregon 18 inch bar that came off a poulan. Take the opportunity to set it up how you want.

 

[moresmoke]

If cost is an issue, go to Bailey’s online and order a woodland pro brand bar.

I wouldn’t waste time trying to straighten a saw bar. I’ve spent more time on the back end of a chain saw than most here. Only ever messed up one bar. Been through a couple pro grade saws.

 

[bc]

I wouldn't go to a longer bar and chain unless absolutely needed. That cuts down on your power and chain speed taking longer to cut and easier to bog down or stick it. If anything go to a shorter bar to cut quicker as long as you aren't cutting real thick stuff. I get arm tired after cutting very long with big and heavy saws. Can cut more with a lighter one. Many loggers use 2 or more sizes of saws.

 

[DanielW]

I wouldn’t waste time trying to straighten a saw bar. I’ve spent more time on the back end of a chain saw than most here. Only ever messed up one bar. Been through a couple pro grade saws.

Agreed. I'm not a professional logger by any stretch, but as part of our farm we run a 900 acre hardwood operation with two larger circular mills and one bandmill. Very rare for a day to go by where someone's not running a saw, and I can only think of a few times someone's bent a bar. And it only happens when the operator (probably me) has done something stupid.