Bent Lower lift arm

[Kenockee 8N]

So I am not quite sure when I did it but when I switched from the draw bar to my back blade, I noticed that my left hand lower lift arm is bent. First off, I see that there are "weld on" replacement ends. I'm not quite sure if they are long enough to get rid of the bend or if I should just get a new lift arm.

If I get a new lift arm, I've seen that some replacements are better than others. Which replacement is the best to get?

Am I opening Pandora's box by trying to remove the lower lift arm and having to remove the left trumpet if the nut spins and can't remove it?

 

[Tall T]

(quoted from post at 07:46:33 05/30/17) So I am not quite sure when I did it but when I switched from the draw bar to my back blade, I noticed that my left hand lower lift arm is bent. First off, I see that there are "weld on" replacement ends. I'm not quite sure if they are long enough to get rid of the bend or if I should just get a new lift arm.

If I get a new lift arm, I've seen that some replacements are better than others. Which replacement is the best to get?

Am I opening Pandora's box by trying to remove the lower lift arm and having to remove the left trumpet if the nut spins and can't remove it?

Sounds like a quick fix to me.
You'll know soon enough if the diff pin is going to turn with the nut, but if you're worried, use a small oxy/acet tip to focus the heat on just the nut If there is exposed thread beyond the nut on the pin, use a thread chaser first -- or a small three cornered file if you see crushed threads.

Once the arm is off, more cherry heat and a big hammer and you're done.

If there is a crack at the bend area, V it out and arc weld it . . . if not then heat it cherry and flatten it out.

 

[Kenockee 8N]

(quoted from post at 08:48:10 05/30/17)

(quoted from post at 07:46:33 05/30/17) So I am not quite sure when I did it but when I switched from the draw bar to my back blade, I noticed that my left hand lower lift arm is bent. First off, I see that there are "weld on" replacement ends. I'm not quite sure if they are long enough to get rid of the bend or if I should just get a new lift arm.

If I get a new lift arm, I've seen that some replacements are better than others. Which replacement is the best to get?

Am I opening Pandora's box by trying to remove the lower lift arm and having to remove the left trumpet if the nut spins and can't remove it?

Sounds like a quick fix to me.
You'll know soon enough if the diff pin is going to turn with the nut, but if you're worried, use a small oxy/acet tip to focus the heat on just the nut If there is exposed thread beyond the nut on the pin, use a thread chaser first -- or a small three cornered file if you see crushed threads.

Once the arm is off, more cherry heat and a big hammer and you're done.

If there is a crack at the bend area, V it out and arc weld it . . . if not then heat it cherry and flatten it out.

Thanks for the reply Tall T. I guess that would be a lot cheaper than buying a new one wouldn't it!

 

[Tall T]

P.S.

Extra insurance or if you have no serious heat:
If you have the room to get vise grips on the pin . . .
take a heavy bite and pull with opposing force against your push to remove the nut.

T

 

[Kenockee 8N]

Yeah I currently do not have a heat wrench. I have a propane torch but I don't think that would get it hot enough, quick enough to do much help. I was going to try to remove the lift arm and take it to the neighbor for his torch. Suppose I could just drive the tractor over there but I try to inconvenience them as much as possible.

 

[Tall T]

Even propane and a little more time applying heat will lower the torque necessary to getting it off.

The rest of these experienced guys would know better but I'm thinking that if a pin is able to turn with the nut, then it is already too loose and on the way to being problematic. But chances are it is super tight as it should be and you don't have to worry.

T

 

[Hobo,NC]

The arm should be bent and down a pix would help... are google a pix of a good'N...

 

[Kenockee 8N]

(quoted from post at 10:19:59 05/30/17)
The arm should be bent and down a pix would help... are google a pix of a good'N...

I'll take a picture when I get home tonight. I know it is bent from where it was the last time that I had the back blade on because my left hand stabilizer bar would not line up with the link pin.

I put the draw bar on and used my 2 gang pull disc. I'm guessing that was when it got tweaked.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Kenokee,
You do know that the quickest way to mangle up your lift arms is to go pushing backwards with them. Yes?
Probably more get bent running a back blade in reverse than any other cause. They are made to PULL with, not push.
That said, I definately would not use heat to straighten one.
They are a very good quality spring steel and heating them hot enough to straighten it will cause it to lose its temper and bend much easier in the future. I would do it cold, in a good press and no other way.