Best field ploughs?

[Wyatt-The-Ih-Guy]

I?m looking into buying a 6 to 8 bottom plough and was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on any brands and models of bottom plough. I?m looking into an older plough nothing to new. Anyone have any suggestions on any good ones.

 

[SVcummins]

Since you?re the IH guy international makes a great plow. Now some brands are said to actually push the tractor instead of pulling against it like any other brand of plow made by the hand of man but I have no experience with them 😀

 

[formenwhogrow]

White 508
Any white, newer case, or newer ford plow..
Any Oliver plow.

 

[SVcummins]

Pulled a 6 bottom melroe plow with Oliver bottoms on land drawn type plow it was alright nothing to write to mother about compared to any other plow

 

[DeltaRed]

An IH is one of the best. White/Oliver is a close second.

 

[Bruce from Can.]

I have an 880 MF plough. Semi mount, can go from 4 up to 6 bottoms , hydraulic reset , cuts and covers good, pulls easy, parts are readily available, and can be purchased often for $1,000 -$1,500.00

 

[Butch(OH)]

Years ago our neighbor used to say his Oliver plow pulled so easy he had to siphon fuel out of the tank twice a day. Dad said maybe ya ought to remove the transport lock when you get to the field????😃

 

[paul]

Oliver/ White are real good, those bottoms were used by other companies from time to time.

IHC got a pretty good plow in the 700 and 800 series. In smaller plows the 720 is great, the bigger plows were 710 or an 800something. I got a little lost in there numbering of that era.....

The newer JD are good. Older one pulled a little harder.

I just bought an on land ihc 6 bottom 710 last summer. Was too wet this fall to use it. Dang it. If the snow melts I might run it on a few acres this spring yet. Was only $900 I think a good buy.

Paul

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

Do you have rocks and need a reset plow? If you need a reset plow the IH 710 was the best followed by the Oliver-White. Oliver will pull the easiest.I like Deere plows as they seem to lay the ground over the best.That is my experience in having owned several of each. I would not consider a hyd. reset of any brand. Make sure the wear parts are good as that will be lots of money on a big plow. Tom

 

[NY 986]

Agreed. Moldboard replacements are a minimum of 125 dollars each and there is not a whole lot of difference at the auction between a plow with a fair amount of wear left and one with the wear parts worn razor thin. I too like the JD that the older JD F145H plows did and when I was on my game my work got praise by some tough to impress neighbors. Spring resets I would go IH 7X0 then JD 2X00 plows. White is good but non wear parts are said to be hard to find.

 

[SVcummins]

😂😂😂

 

[buickanddeere]

Best depends on your field and what you are expecting

 

[Adirondack case guy]

You can't beat a White 588-Case 4-500 or Ford. All were built by White.
an operator still needs to understand how to adjust and operate the tractor and plow so they work in unison.
I am still turning nice consistent furrows with a 1971 CASE built 5x18 in-furrow hydraulic reset plow with hydraulic landing feature allowing me to turn furrows up our steep hills.

 

[the tractor vet]

A lot depends on your ground , soil type flat , hilly the ROCKS then do you want in furrow or onland , semi mount or trailer , do you want a 16,18 , 20 inch bottom and just how much horse power you have to pull it . Do you want a plow that will flex in the middle or do you want a rigid frame or flex . I had a 880 Massey 8-18 onland once for one season and had and 1805 Massey up ft . was great on the farm i used it one as the fields were almost flat , Now what we farm the five bottoms are the maxand on some of the humps and bumps they are tomuch , ontop of the humps you get three bottoms going to China and in the swalles ya have thee bottoms moving air . For us to go bigger we need a flex frame .

 

[Adirondack case guy]

I'm sure the poster here is only considering an on-land hitch plow, and my comment here is based on in-furrow plows. I would not even consider an IH 7XX plow because they never offered the hydraulic landing feature. All they had for plowing on sidehills was a cylinder mounted down on the draft bar. The White and Case built plows had a cylinder mounted between the main plow beam and the draft beam. This cylinder changed the angle that the plow beam ran and the plow would carry itself up the hill, rather than just trying to force it sideways against the tractor. -------Loren

 

[JimB2]

Loren, I have a question, last fall you were plowing for a while with your old Case 930? and then switched to the CIH 7XXX?
Which was the must fuel efficient as gallons/acre?

Re White plows, going back to the mid 1980s friends of my Dad's were all Green but they had a WHITE plow.

 

[Shetland Sheepdog]

It never ceases to amaze me how seldom Kverneland plows get mentioned! Arguably the best plow made!

 

[buickanddeere]

(quoted from post at 11:51:06 04/18/20) You can't beat a White 588-Case 4-500 or Ford. All were built by White.
an operator still needs to understand how to adjust and operate the tractor and plow so they work in unison.
I am still turning nice consistent furrows with a 1971 CASE built 5x18 in-furrow hydraulic reset plow with hydraulic landing feature allowing me to turn furrows up our steep hills. >

As previously stated. Proper setup is more important than the brand of plough.

 

[Shetland Sheepdog]

Just a rehash of a topic from about 7 years ago!
Might make some interesting reading!
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=implment&th=227454

 

[Adirondack case guy]

We have a 6B Kvernland plow on the farm. It has been parked for 3 years now and we
went back to our old Case 5 bottom in-furrow plow. It would not plow a decent furrow
to save your butt. I spent hours trying to get it to stop dogging off to the
unplowed land with no success. The tail wanted to pass the front of the plow. I
finally figured it out, but to cure the problem would require a lot of torch work
and welding. These plows were of a modular design and the wrong main frame had been
used in the plow. The draft beam and main plow beam were meant to be incorporated
into a larger 7-8 bottom plow. all the anchor points for the draft beam on the main
beam are at the 5th bottom. These anchorages should be up by the 3rd bottom for a 6B
plow and a shorter draft beam should have been used. The selling dealer should have
read the set up instructions better. The ware parts for Kverland plows are also
ridiculously expensive. It costs us 70% less annually to maintain and operate the
old case plow with Radex bottoms and we have eliminated one secondary tillage trip
that was required to smoothen out the poor plowing job that the Kvernland left.-----
----Loren

 

[Adirondack case guy]

I haven't really checked fuel consumption but I am confident that the MX110 is more efficient. My 1969 931 has an 1/8" over-bore kit in it and the pump was tickled a bit. It made some smoke plowing. The MX plays with the plow. I can gear up and throttle back with it and MFD makes a BIG difference.-----------Loren

 

[Shetland Sheepdog]

Maybe this will help the people unfamiliar with Kverneland!
https://www.greatplainsag.com/en/ne...rs-efficient-effective-kverneland-plow-lineup