Big ol grinder.

[cwtech]

Do you have 3 phase power in your shop, or is that running on a converter or VFD?

 

[Russ from MN]

that's a brute, keep it original, except for maybe the brake!

 

[Texgasser1]

Having a grinder that won't stall when you lay into it is a great feeling. But wait until you have to replace those wheels. Probably $100 apiece or more.

Try $4-600. I priced some just a few months ago.

 

[Texgasser1]

I like the big knee bump stop button. Good for emergency when you don't want your hand anywhere near it.

 

[Sberry]

I remember when every shop had a heavy grinder, we had a pedestal when I was a kid and think maybe I still do but we didn't have the hand tools we do now. I don't miss it.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Auction score last week.
Had my electrician friend look it over and start it up for the first time this afternoon.
It has a bunch of electric stuff that I only sorta understand that brakes it when you shut it off.
I wanted it all removed cause it's so bloody ugly but it all works so he talked me into keeping it all.
I do have a switch that I could mount above the motor and have him replace the ugly stop button tho. Last photo.
What says the forum about that - replace or no?
The mfrs tag and photos will tell more about it better than I can so I'll just bug out for now.
Every man needs a big ol grinder doesn't he?

Thanks fellas,
I'm thinking more and more that I'd like to get rid of ALL of that extra electric stuff and use a simple mechanical motor controller like this Allen Bradley.
It is on another grinder - a 10" one that I did a resto on a few years ago. I used an axle trumpet from a Ford 4000 for the pedestal as it just had a gruesome looking pipe when I got it.
Dunno why I like these things but they were cheap - and a Lot easier to fit in my garage than another tractor.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Do you have 3 phase power in your shop, or is that running on a converter or VFD?

I built an RPC out of a 7hp motor and a kit with all the contactors and capacitors, etc online.

 

[stevieb49829]

Thanks fellas,
I'm thinking more and more that I'd like to get rid of ALL of that extra electric stuff and use a simple mechanical motor controller like this Allen Bradley.
It is on another grinder - a 10" one that I did a resto on a few years ago. I used an axle trumpet from a Ford 4000 for the pedestal as it just had a gruesome looking pipe when I got it.
Dunno why I like these things but they were cheap - and a Lot easier to fit in my garage than another tractor.

I would agree that replacing the switch to something more visually appealing is a good way to go. And removing the braking system may also be a good safety move, like wore out mentioned. That much rotating force could spin a retaining nut right off during the braking process. steve

 

[Hobo,NC]

I would agree that replacing the switch to something more visually appealing is a good way to go. And removing the braking system may also be a good safety move, like wore out mentioned. That much rotating force could spin a retaining nut right off during the braking process. steve

Aren't they treaded to self tighten. ?

 

[wore out]

Aren't they treaded to self tighten. ?

Sure, the "self tighten" when being used, but when the brake comes on the inertia of the big wheels would TRY to loosen the nuts.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Your elect

Looks like a dandy !

If I had an electrician friend, I'd ask him to put a 20 foot chord on the start button. That way I could stand outside the shop for that first run after putting on new wheels.

A wheel dresser for that thing must have a handle similar to a pitchfork ! Lol

Your electrician friend probably did put that switch across the shop in already it’s located in a grey box on the other side of the shop.

I bet it dims the lights when it turns on. Fantastic find!!

 

[will-max dairy]

Auction score last week.
Had my electrician friend look it over and start it up for the first time this afternoon.
It has a bunch of electric stuff that I only sorta understand that brakes it when you shut it off.
I wanted it all removed cause it's so bloody ugly but it all works so he talked me into keeping it all.
I do have a switch that I could mount above the motor and have him replace the ugly stop button tho. Last photo.
What says the forum about that - replace or no?
The mfrs tag and photos will tell more about it better than I can so I'll just bug out for now.
Every man needs a big ol grinder doesn't he?

I like it! Insert Tim Allen man grunts. Oh... the things that could be sharpened by that with a nice VFD...

 

[Ultradog MN]

Sure, the "self tighten" when being used, but when the brake comes on the inertia of the big wheels would TRY to loosen the nuts.

For kicks. I just tried an experiment with it.
Turned it on and ran it up to full speed. Then clicked the stop watch on my phone at the same time I hit the kill switch.
It took 16 seconds to come to a full stop.
Then I ran it up to full speed again and unplugged it from the the power source
and hit the stop watch at the same time. This time it took 1 minute & 46 seconds to come to a full stop.
If my math is correct it stops 6.6 times faster with with the brake.

 

[will-max dairy]

For kicks. I just tried an experiment with it.
Turned it on and ran it up to full speed. Then clicked the stop watch on my phone at the same time I hit the kill switch.
It took 16 seconds to come to a full stop.
Then I ran it up to full speed again and unplugged it from the the power source
and hit the stop watch at the same time. This time it took 1 minute & 46 seconds to come to a full stop.
If my math is correct it stops 6.6 times faster with with the brake.

Sounds like it needs to be used for a minimum of one minute and forty six seconds between each engagement of the brake.

If a wheel comes off... it reminds me of what happened to the flywheel on my NH276 baler's thrower. The hub in the center broke off of the mounting bolt; while I was baling and the flywheel was spun up to full speed. I was watching a bale get thrown into the wagon; when I heard a clunk and saw that flywheel hit the ground. It spun off into the woods. I never did find it. Had to get a flywheel off of a scrap baler...

 

[stevieb49829]

For kicks. I just tried an experiment with it.
Turned it on and ran it up to full speed. Then clicked the stop watch on my phone at the same time I hit the kill switch.
It took 16 seconds to come to a full stop.
Then I ran it up to full speed again and unplugged it from the the power source
and hit the stop watch at the same time. This time it took 1 minute & 46 seconds to come to a full stop.
If my math is correct it stops 6.6 times faster with with the brake.

I'm thinking that IF the inertia against the brake actually loosens the wheel, it will just spin free on the shaft without "dismounting". Especially if the nut has some normal resistance to turning, like a nylock. steve

 

[Watthour]

For kicks. I just tried an experiment with it.
Turned it on and ran it up to full speed. Then clicked the stop watch on my phone at the same time I hit the kill switch.
It took 16 seconds to come to a full stop.
Then I ran it up to full speed again and unplugged it from the the power source
and hit the stop watch at the same time. This time it took 1 minute & 46 seconds to come to a full stop.
If my math is correct it stops 6.6 times faster with with the brake.

It's not a servo motor, and the braking is probably the typical regenerative system with some low DC thrown in to initiate the brake action. It's not going to cause wheel loosening if the wheels are properly mounted. An older high slip motor like those commonly used for pedestal grinders, saws, punches, and other moderate inertial loads would not stop that quickly without a mechanical brake.

 

[Farmerwright97]

had one of those in our high school shop, brake didn't work but it was a great grinder. watched one of my classmates get his thumb removed all the way to the bottom joint after he didn't set the rest correctly

 

[RESLLS]

The big stop switch is for your knee when sh#& goes south. It's ugly, but I'd leave it.

 

[Barts Dad]

I taught Tech Ed for 31 years. We had those big old safety buttons on all of our grinders/buffers/wire wheels as a safety concern from our insurance company. The theory being if you got your hands tangled up in one you could raise your knee to shut it off. Good theory I suppose, but how many would just panic and try to pull away. Thankfully I never had that happen to any of my students.

 

[will-max dairy]

I would leave the big stop switch for my right knee... and have another button labeled "DNR" for my left knee.

That way, I have a choice...