ED-IL

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1946 2N overheated with oil coming out the radiator top. Mechanic has it opened up. Radiator neck is fractured. Although head gasket was leaking he thinks there is a crack in the front of the block near the oil pressure relief valve. He is suggesting buying a new block.

need advice : new block or used? supplier to be trusted? get one already assembled with pistons, etc. or just the block?

Lets go people - in the 9 years since I bought this tractor you've never let me down. Lets brainstorm!
click for photo of opened up engine
 
Might try dale reesman in western pa, he ships to midwest pretty cheap. 724-495-7172, he is pretty sharp on ford and farmall. I would call for a price and ask him his opinion same time.
 
nnalert has a rebuilt block for about 2,900 and a new block for 3,200. Unfortunately the new blocks are out of stock until september and I am concerned if I get a rebuilt block I am risking having the block crack again.

external_link estimates 700 for a used block. then 1700 for rebuild after magnaflux testing of the block. I kinda like this since external_link has a great reputation, this is all they do, and with my son at age 12 the road trip to indianapolis would be great fun.
 
if you wanted to upgrade to side dizzy john smith has one.. but then you need all the goodies to go with it.. it.. gen, dizzy, front cover.. etc.. etc.. lotsa extra parts chasing..

what about finding a running front mount engine from a salvaged unit?

soundguy
 
I would strip down the existing block and get it magnafluxed to insure it is cracked before I trashed it. I got a used block, 8N front mount, from a bone yard around Gettysburg PA. two years ago for $450 which included getting it magnafluxed. Bone yard had to bring three to shop before one passed. If you don't know who you are buying from you need to be real careful not to buy a second cracked block. Pay a little more and buy from a reputable dealer or buy local and have your machine shop check out the block before paying. Make sure you get all three main bearings with any block.
 
I myself am in the middle of a rebuild.

I personally got my block from SSB Tractor at $550 less shipping.
Had machine shop re-hot-tank (with all plugs removed), re-magnaflux the block and paint it.
Bought all the parts myself for approx $600.
Had the machine shop do the sleeve installation, decking of the block, oil pump rebuild, free-rotating exhaust valve install and tweak, bearing install, flywheel turned, crank turned exhaust manifold glass bead blast and paint, oil pan clean and paint, front cover install, etc for $1300.
I myself am dealing with the Sherman Step-Up rebuild, clutch, distributor, governor, new head with temp sender, water pump, 12V internal reg alternator with dash lamp for low rpm excite, external hydraulic pump hardware for live hydraulics, etc.

Man I just don't know when all this is going to end.
All I know is that it takes time and take the advantage of the tractor being split.
I plan to actually paint my rebuilt front end axle and spindle parts while I can too.

Good luck my freind and may God be with you,

Greg
 
very exciting Greg! I wish I were as confident as you.

In the past I have replaced brakes, steering wheel, radiator, lights and even did the 12 volt conversion. The engine is where my confidence line gets crossed.

external_link in Indianapolis has a front mount 8N block they are going to tear down, magnaflux test, and re manufacture for me. My mechanic will check the head for warp and hopefully within a month I will drive down to Indy to get my motor.

How much does one of those weigh?
 
good advice - since I am not doing the work myself I figured instead of paying the mechanic to tear it down and test it, I would be money ahead if I found one that was good to start with - see my post about external_link.
 
He is going to tear it down any way. I assume you will be reusing the crank, cam, rods and head at least. Plus all the small parts. Only extra cost would be the magnaflux.
 
Alright,

The plain stripped block is "roughly 115 lb.

Fully assembled maybe somewhere around 200 lb.
I was able to handle my engine without the head, water pump, and alternator by supporting it with a 1-ton chain hoist mounted to 3 overhead 2x6 rafters on my pole shed.
I spread the load with thick wall 1-1/2" steel tubing with separate chains around each rafter.
Well, after removing the front axle support with tranny belly supported, split the tractor with light tension on the hoist and swung the engine around and set it in the back of a dump cart behind my riding mower.
Just put some wood down to keep the oil pan plug up off the surface and wood on the sides to keep the engine steady.
Pulled it over to the storage shed with the webbing straps still attached where I then re-hoisted up from the door header beam above.
Then was able to get it on an engine stand.

Just wanted you to get an idea of how it can be moved around.
It's no so bad, just be slow and careful.

Greg
 
Forgot to tell ya,

Add another 80 lb for good measure if you have the flywheel and clutch attached while moving the engine around like I did.

Say "roughly" 280 lb.

Greg
 
actually no... the motor will come from external_link with everything installed except the head and the oil pan.
 
my worry about swapping engines without seeing what is inside concerned me in that I wanted some assurance what I was getting didn't have the same issue mine did - as it stands the one I am getting from external_link is from a side mt 8n

thanks for the advice though
 
good advice - I am hoping external_link will load it onto my trailer and my mechanic will unload it
 
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