I have a repair manual and have everything loose but but it's not coming out, it's a Vh4d wisconsin, I thought it is a slip coupling on a splined shaft , manual says pick up on it and pull it out ??? It's wearing me out! Lol
 
i hate to get rough with and break something that's gonna cost more money than I can afford, anybody have any tips or tricks
 
If you determine it truly is rusted splines, what I have done is pry the engine away from the bell housing on one side, intentionally putting the spline in a stressed position.

Then spin the engine with the starter.

It will usually walk it right out.

This is just generic experience, not sure if it can be applied to the Bobcat. Of course that depends on if the engine can be spun, and the spline really be what is holding it.
 
i have already pulled everything loose for removal, even pulled fuelpump, carb. Starter, so I can turn the flywheel that's about it, I have no ideal about twisted splines until I get it out, it's real tight quarters I'm working in, can't see a lot. Does the plastic fan shroud stay in unit when it comes out, it seems to be separate from the engine?
 
The 751 is a whole different,much more modern machine.The 751 has a big drive belt to drive the pumps.The 700-720-730 is a direct drive to the pump.The coupling is held onto the flywheel with 4 bolts.They are just plain miserable to work on.I had one,(720)that the splines had twisted and wore off,and somebody had bored a hole through the yoke and shaft to put a bolt through.I used the machine over 3000 hours in 21 years,and anytime I had the engine out for something else I would replace the bolt.You CAN get those 4 bolts out of the flange on the flywheel,but you will swear you can't.
 
I may be wrong about the flywheel flange on the 730.I know the flywheel on the 700-720 is inboard,towards the pump.i THINK the flywheel is outboard,and facing the back door on the 730.I'm not positive,but I do remember the 730 being kind of an oddball machine.
 
Had a mechanic come help me try again yesterday, he gave up and so doe I, we decided splines must be twisted or coupling is just seized up, can't get to anything without missing it up more, decided to put it back together and make some minor repairs and run it until it locks down or blows up, don't want to put a ton of money into it. It runs fine but uses mass quantity of oil ( smokes bad). I would sell for parts sell as take it over the scales, I'm 68 too old to mess with it, anybody interested leave me a message, it will be fairly cheap! Thanks to everybody that commented,
 
the plugs are not oily when I took them out? Would straight 40 or 10w /40. Which would be best.
 
Buddy has a MF 50. He just tills garden
with. It fouled the plugs in just a few
minutes. He put Mobil 1 syn oil in and
almost quit smoking. Still uses oil. He
put as heavy a grade as Walmart had.
 
Question for forum , if my timing is not correct, is it possible engine will use more oil, I've never used a timing light on mine but always set by ear, and easy starting, when carb is correctly set , I have to choke it but starts up fine, I started thinking about this in my sleep last nite!
 
Update on my 730 bobcat, I'm having issues with pulling the engine. Suspect coupling is froze to spleen
shaft, so after taking a break for the cold spell, since working outside, after unbolted the mounting plate,
I could turn the motor side to side, , caught a view of driveshaft coupler , so after about a day of loolking
for the tools needed, I've, been able to remove 2 of the four bolts of the u-joints. But is really diffcult to
position socket where it will not slip. It may take a few more days to get the other 2 bolts out. I need a
8mm socket 1/4" drive in a 12 point . I don't even know if they make them, but that's the trick of trade it's
going to take.
 
(quoted from post at 20:45:57 02/26/21) Update on my 730 bobcat, I'm having issues with pulling the engine. Suspect coupling is froze to spleen
shaft, so after taking a break for the cold spell, since working outside, after unbolted the mounting plate,
I could turn the motor side to side, , caught a view of driveshaft coupler , so after about a day of loolking
for the tools needed, I've, been able to remove 2 of the four bolts of the u-joints. But is really diffcult to
position socket where it will not slip. It may take a few more days to get the other 2 bolts out. I need a
8mm socket 1/4" drive in a 12 point . I don't even know if they make them, but that's the trick of trade it's
going to take.

They make 8mm, 12 point sockets in 1/4 and 3/8 drives, both shallow and deep. Getting one shouldn't be a problem.
 
Ok with the help of the forums comments and advice finally got the engine free from pump shaft, Now
ready to take in to my mechanic friend that's gonna tear it down and inspect for what needs to be done,
I'll purchase the parts and he will rebuild it and bench start it, then after I get it all cleaned up will bolt it
back up and hope for the. Best. Thanks for of y'all's help!
 
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