Bought 1950 8N

[usedcarguy]

OK.....It has been some time since I picked up a 1950 8N from an older lady in town after her husband passed away. The tractor did not start and I gave her $1000 and towed it home. The tractor has been sitting in my basement garage for the last 8 years and I finally got around to messing with it earlier today. Job #1 was drain the gas tank and pull the hood off the frame. A couple of things jumped out at me. It is essentially a new tractor on the outside. On original inspection, all of the metal....fenders, hood, front bumper are new. Ball joints are new and the proofmeter and oil pressure guage are new as well. Side mount distributor is probably used but the points, cap, rotor, and coil are new as well as the plug wires......they are not solid wire. New Rubber, seat, lights. I had it running at idle for about 3 minutes years ago and that is my only experience with the motor running.
The ignition had a new 8V Battery and I have no experience with an 8V battery so I am thinking about converting to 12 just to avoid headaches (and I kind of want to try a conversion)

What is a good place to start on inspection? What should I look for before attempting to start the motor?

 

[usedcarguy]

Pics

 

[Smokeonthewater]

Should be 6v not 8v...

You need to take her a couple thousand more dollars....

 

[Smokeonthewater]

Personally I'd keep the 6v

As far as what to look for, check fluids, look over the wiring for any damage, and let her rip.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

(quoted from post at 19:30:40 05/18/21)
The ignition had a new 8V Battery and I have no experience with an 8V battery so I am thinking about converting to 12 just to avoid headaches

If you really want to avoid headaches, ditch the 8 volt battery and stick with 6V. A properly maintained AND tuned N will not start or run better than with 6V.

 

[Btzj02]

That is a nice looking tractor, If the inside is as nice as the outside $1000 is cheap! I also prefer the 6 volt system but that is a personal preference thing. When I bought my 8N51 I did a compression test and changed all the fluids. Buy the manuals! After I got the old girl running I started to inspect and repair as needed wiring, points, timing, distributer including advance timing weights, voltage regulator, air cleaner, Carburetor and Governor. I recommend you prove the Proof Meter RPM readings too. I then tackled the oil leaks one at a time. Mine still leaks some oil but I consider the Old Girl is just marking her spot in the pole barn!

 

[Ultradog MN]

We have come a long way way in our quest
for equality between men and women.
For example, there was a time in the lives
of many of us when a 'housewife' was not
legally allowed to buy or sell real estate
on her own.
Since those times, things like equal
opportunity, equal advancement and equal
pay have become, if not the reality, then
at least the spirit of the law and in most
cases it is the leter of the law.
So when I see someone say things like; 'You
need to take her a couple thousand more
dollars.' I wonder if women have actually
achieved said equality - because I see how
some men still think women need our
protection.

The woman he bought that tractor from is a
case in point.
She had many, many years to learn about
mechanical things or even learn to fix
things herself. By choice, she did not
avail herself of those opportunities.
But Her failure does not require usedcarguy
to treat her differently in a transaction
than he would a man.
With rights come responsibilities.
She shoulda, coulda, woulda learned. But
she didn't bother.
He did learn so I say he owes her nothing
more than what she legally agreed to.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Yea, get rid of the 8v battery. My advice is to get it started & running on 6v. You can always convert it later.

Do not attempt to turn the engine over. You could break the rings if they are rusted to the cylinder walls. Pull all plugs, add a cup or more of automatic transmission fluid (ATF ) or Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in each cylinder. Pull both valve covers & soak everything w/ MMO or ATF. Scrub it all down w/ a wire brush.


Then, start looking for mouse/hornet nests in places like the tail pipe & carb breather hose. Wait at least 2 or 3 days before you do anything, then try & hand crank the engine. (w/o spark plugs) If it does not turn by hand, repeat everything you just did, ie, more MMO or ATF. If it still wont turn by hand, remove the starter (see tip # 36) and use a BF screwdriver or jack handle on the ring gear teeth to try & turn it over. ( you can do this w/o removing the starter on a side distributor engine through the timing hole). Once you get it to turn by hand, then change all the fluids (check tips 3 & 4 at the link below for info on the tranny/pump/rear end fluid change) Fluids include oil & filter, oil in the air cleaner, and 50/50 water & antifreeze. Grease all fittings. Replace the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap. If the wires are cracked & frayed, replace them as well, or you will spend days trying to find that one short. Clean all connections bright & shiny. Put a couple of tablespoons of oil in each cylinder to help lubricate the cylinder walls & increase start-up compression. Before you put the valve covers back on, coat everything again w/ oil . Clean the fuel screens in the carb & sediment bowl. Spray the carb good w/ carb cleaner. (Some people can get a carb to work like this after setting for years. Some people win the lottery. I have never got away w/ an old carb working; plan on a rebuild). Drain the gas or whatever is in the tank. Add at least two gallons of fresh gas & make sure you have a good flow by removing the bolt at the bottom of the carb. Keep some starting fluid or propane handy. You will need a new battery; it needs a good battery to power the ignition as well as turn over the starter. Just before you try to start it, prime the oil pump by removing the 15/16 hex nut to the right of the water pump. This is where your oil gallery is for the valves/lifters is. Don't lose the little spring under the nut. Use an oil squirt can to put about a cup of 90w oil in here. Replace the spring & nut. Spin the starter over (key off) & make sure you have oil pressure showing on the gauge. Remember, you filled the cylinders w/ oil, so it will smoke a lot when it gets going. Once you get it running, just let it idle for a few minutes while you check closely for leaks (oil, water, gas) & make sure it has good oil pressure. Then, it should be run at variable RPM. Internal parts that would normally have a film of oil have gotten dry. Run the engine up to around 1500 RPM and back down, put it in gear and make a few laps around the yard at various speeds. This will quickly get some heat into the oil and splash oil everywhere it needs to be inside the engine. Continue to watch for leaks, smoke or other problems (like no brakes).

Good luck & check back!
75 Tips

 

[flembo]

You did excellent for $1000 Someone put a lot of work into that. just the tires alone are worth nearly that. I to would ditch the 8 volt and go back to 6 volt pos ground. I have one that is still 6 volt and one that has been converted to 12 volt and I see no difference in the way they start and run.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 22:30:40 05/18/21) OK.....It has been some time since I picked up a 1950 8N from an older lady in town after her husband passed away. The tractor did not start and I gave her $1000 and towed it home. The tractor has been sitting in my basement garage for the last 8 years and I finally got around to messing with it earlier today. Job #1 was drain the gas tank and pull the hood off the frame. A couple of things jumped out at me. It is essentially a new tractor on the outside. On original inspection, all of the metal....fenders, hood, front bumper are new. Ball joints are new and the proofmeter and oil pressure guage are new as well. Side mount distributor is probably used but the points, cap, rotor, and coil are new as well as the plug wires......they are not solid wire. New Rubber, seat, lights. I had it running at idle for about 3 minutes years ago and that is my only experience with the motor running.
The ignition had a new 8V Battery and I have no experience with an 8V battery so I am thinking about converting to 12 just to avoid headaches (and I kind of want to try a conversion)

What is a good place to start on inspection? What should I look for before attempting to start the motor?

When I read you paid $1K for a non-runner wuth an 8V battery I figured you over paid by about double the going rate. When I saw the pictures that changed. The new rears are $1K by themselves and theres a whole lot more to go with them. Obviously someone was pouring buckets of money into this machine. Any indication the engine was overhauled? Third party DIY engine overhauls generally make me uneasy but for what you paid you could afford to have a botched job fixed and still be ahead.

Get it running and you will have a fine example of a late model 8N at bargain basement prices.

Have fun and enjoy your "looks almost new" tractor,

Dan

 

[Smokeonthewater]

(quoted from post at 06:46:16 05/19/21) ......
So when I see someone say things like; 'You
need to take her a couple thousand more
dollars.' I wonder if women have actually
achieved said equality - because I see how
some men still think women need our
protection.
........

Uhhhh kind of an 'off the deep end' response to my attempt to be witty and indicate that he got it WAY under it's value....

My comment had nothing to do with the gender of the seller.... or any political topic...

 

[usedcarguy]

Backstory on the N. Ast
owner before me passed on
and had many tractors but
this one was the last he
held on to. ---I have a
working front mount 8N
(1950 front mount) which
is still 6v---
She parted with it and
told me not to sell it for
profit and she knew I had
another N because I plowed
her driveway with my
worker for fun when it
snowed...plowing snow is
fun when neighbors give
you coffee and cookies.

I just took Bruce's advice
and dumped MMO into the
cylinders...he installed
Autolite 216's (I always
used 437's) and had good
luck with them. He used
7mm low OHM plug wires
without solid copper...I
have had solid copper in
my other N for 20 years
with no problems but seem
to remember they need the
solid wire center....let
me know if I am wrong
about this.
Electrical pics attached:
Looks like they are Henco
enough Mexico
<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto8886
8.jpg>

<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto8886
9.jpg>

<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto8887
0.jpg>

<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto8887
1.jpg>

<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto8887
2.jpg>

 

[Smokeonthewater]

I would definately swap to solid core... if for no other reason, they don't gradually break down internally like the floppy wires

 

[Ultradog MN]

Oh.

 

[kossuth]

(quoted from post at 20:00:06 05/18/21)
Should be 6v not 8v...

You need to take her a couple thousand more dollars....

greed
Rule 1: Always be on the lookout for a deal. Always try to get something for a bargain, but never take advantage of a widow whom doesnt know any different. Consider that this could be your mother/grandmother and now that granddad is gone her means are even more limited. After my dad passed away Im a little sensitive to that I guess. Yeah dont pay full price but dont steal it either.

 

[usedcarguy]

I plowed her driveway for
many years. Never knew
the tractor was in her
garage. Never inspected
it and the tractor did not
start. Never looked at
the metal....nothing. I
did receive cookies and
coffee on occasion after
the sale and honored my
promise to not profit off
the exchange. Like the
majority of Americans, I
honor my word. But, I
know what you mean...

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 16:56:27 05/19/21)

(quoted from post at 20:00:06 05/18/21)
Should be 6v not 8v...

You need to take her a couple thousand more dollars....

greed
Rule 1: Always be on the lookout for a deal. Always try to get something for a bargain, but never take advantage of a widow whom doesnt know any different. Consider that this could be your mother/grandmother and now that granddad is gone her means are even more limited. After my dad passed away Im a little sensitive to that I guess. Yeah dont pay full price but dont steal it either.

Pretty judgemental aren't you? You are a distant third party with ZERO knowledge of the situation, individuals, or deal. For all you know she is a rich widow with money to burn, a full knowledge of old Ford tractors, had no use for it, and simply wanted it to go to someone she and her husband knew and liked.

And in any event its hardly stealing. She made the deal to a family friend and neighbor for roughly half of what she could have got trying to sell it to a stranger.

TOH

 

[Clifford B.]

You nailed it TOH !!

 

[Smokeonthewater]

Personally I think we need to restrict the conversation to tractors.... My comment was misunderstood and started the current debate but it really needs to end before it blows up into an all out battle....

 

[Ultradog MN]

Don't worry.
We throw our thoughts out into the ether
here and others pick up on them and
interpret them according to their own
lights.
I did not sense the purpose of your post
was to cause argument and if it did, it is
not your fault.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Several years ago, after realizing that we will never use our pickup camper again, a neighbor kid drove over to show off his used F-350 he had just bought.
Next thing I noticed is him and my son looking over uor camper and hear the neighbor kid say, "Boy would I love to find one of these to take hunting!!"
I told him, Your truck can't handle a camper like this".
OHH-BOY!!!
Then there they are, loading up the camper to "prove me wrong".
I slipped into the house and asked LiZ, "Quick! Get me the title to the camper".
I went back outside and the camper was mounted on our neighbors truck.
"See, See; It handles it just fine!!"
I handed him the title and told him to give me one dollar.
He drove off ,the happiest kid in town.
Did he steal from me??

 

[kossuth]

(quoted from post at 05:59:22 05/20/21)

(quoted from post at 16:56:27 05/19/21)

(quoted from post at 20:00:06 05/18/21)
Should be 6v not 8v...

You need to take her a couple thousand more dollars....

greed
Rule 1: Always be on the lookout for a deal. Always try to get something for a bargain, but never take advantage of a widow whom doesnt know any different. Consider that this could be your mother/grandmother and now that granddad is gone her means are even more limited. After my dad passed away Im a little sensitive to that I guess. Yeah dont pay full price but dont steal it either.

Pretty judgemental aren't you? You are a distant third party with ZERO knowledge of the situation, individuals, or deal. For all you know she is a rich widow with money to burn, a full knowledge of old Ford tractors, had no use for it, and simply wanted it to go to someone she and her husband knew and liked.

And in any event its hardly stealing. She made the deal to a family friend and neighbor for roughly half of what she could have got trying to sell it to a stranger.

TOH

retty judgemental???? Yep. Have a widowed mother whom lost the majority of her income for the most part when my dad unexpectedly died and saw first hand people try to take advantage of her. People you thought were good friends tried to pull some dirty manure just to make a buck. So yep I have a pretty strong opinion on that one.. Sont like my opinion, oh well.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:01:29 05/20/21)
Personally I think we need to restrict the conversation to tractors.... My comment was misunderstood and started the current debate but it really needs to end before it blows up into an all out battle....

I took your comment as simple light hearted appreciation of his purchase and nothing more. You certainly don't bear any responsibility for other peoples behavior. JMNSHO

TOH