Brakes and fluid leak

[Mark Maxfield]

I have a couple more issues I want to deal with in the near future after I get the 1940 9n running. I bought this tractor without hearing it run. It has had new pistons and sleeves installed but I dont think they did the bearings while they were at it as a big box of spare parts came with it and I found a set of bearings in the box and they looked new to me. The fella I got this from said it ran last year but they lost the key and a year later they found it and could not get it running. The tire have good tread but are badly checked the paint is bad and a few dents here and there. I gave 750 for it but I believe the fella was truthfull about it running a year ago as when I arrived to look at it he was pulling it trying to get it to run. On to my new list of issues.
There is a fluid leak coming out of the pto housing when parked uphill. The brakes work but you have to lift the pedals back up with your foot. I do not see a spring that pulls the pedal buck up so I assume its done in the brake unit itself. I will try to adjust the brakes according to the book but would like to know why the pedal sticks down. I dont see grease fittings on the shaft to lube it up. And want to fix the leak at the pto. thanks for any input.

 

[souNdguy]

beware.. you may have bought 750$ of junk.

anyone who gives you a lame story of not being able to start a tractor for a year due to a lost key is pulling your leg.

1, the oem replacement ke is about 9$

2, you can get a generic goggle switch for about 3$ that will run the ignition.

3, a small piece of wire like a paperclip can short the contacts on the oem key switch to make the tractor run in case you lose the key switch.. so.. something smells funny here.

if they did sleaves and pistons.. one would hope they did bearings.. if not.. what a POS 'rebuild' job that is.

I'd be pulling the pan and a main and rod cap to see what is in there before I started it.

it it's leaking out the pto shaft stub area, it needs a seal.. or the shaft assy replaced. there is a gasket behind the carrier that could leak as well.. but it is usually the seal.

sticky brake pdeal could be bad springs or the pedal is siezed up.

probably time for you to buy an I&T fo-4 service manual as I will assume you don't have one. also get a master parts catalog.. will help you see the exploded assy's to help you take stuff apart and put it together.

the axles will be coming out to work on the brakes.. etc.

if the rear sump is overfull, the pto seal , trans input shaft seal, and the axle seals will leak.

soundguy



soundguy

 

[lha]

Like soundguy said I wouldn't try to start it without dropping the pan,and checking for new bearings.There is a small chance that they bought a rebuild set,found out they had wrong bearings,bought right ones.Like I said small chance,but never know.I would carefully check out everything.Good luck---lha

 

[HCooke]

I had a '39 with sticky brake pedals. Took a lot of PB Blaster and working it back and forth to loosen up the bushing where the brake rod goes thru the backing plate.

 

[Mark Maxfield]

I read on the bearings in the box -.10 If I remember right. And they looked new to me had some marks on them but on the inside where the crank would turn the grayness was not worn off. Hate to pull the pan. How many quarts of oil does it require?!And after I take off the rod cap what should I look for? I know the family that I bought it from and I believe they are honest folks. but maybe not all of them. He had been working on it to try to get it running when I arrived and if it were a knocker I dont think he would have been doing that. He was being pulled down the driveway trying to start it. Ive had enough motors fully apart to know what a used bearing looks like. I do have the book Fo-4 and been reading up on it. I never do anything by guess. thanks for the replies.