Brakes on 9 N

[cleddy]

What is with the brakes on a 9 N? My tractors been rebuilt, modified and all new brakes and get used very little. I have to almost stand on them to get it to stop(Doesn't help trying to stop with one side only). It almost impossible to lock them when parking on a hill. As far as I know there in no Oil leakage. Is that just how they are? My WD Allis-Chalmers will lock up the wheels and slide if I brake medium hard. Just wondering? Cleddy

 

[Hobo,NC]

When repaired correctly they should slid/lock the wheels with no problem at all.

It only take one drop are two of oil/grease to contaminate the shoes for the rest of its life, so my best guess is oil has contaminated the shoes.

This is the most hacked job folks do and they are proud of it.

 

[Farmalldude45]

Brakes on the 9n and 2n are not self energizing. Assuming everything else is up to snuff, this most likely is most of your problem. However, I recall from my younger days that 8n self energizing brakes were not great, especially the lh brake. Unfortunately, the brakes are after all gear reduction on the Fords, which imposes a pretty tough job on them. Offhand, I can't think of any other major brand that did this (well, Ferguson and Massey-Ferguson, but they are to some extent knockoffs of the Ford). You might search for softer brake lining for a little better performance.

 

[HCooke]

When repaired correctly they should slid/lock the wheels with no problem at all.

Yes!

 

[DanielW]

Agree with Hobo and Cooke: When I did the brakes on our early 2N a few years ago my father was travelling down the road in High (Sherman Overdrive) and nearly through himself over the hood the first time he hit the brakes. He was used to having to press them pretty hard to slow down. It locked them up instantly with only a little pressure. Several years later, they still lock up pretty easily. Something, somewhere is awry with yours.

 

[DMartin9N-2N]

Good afternoon, cleddy and all: My 9N has always stopped ("fairly well") for 20 years or so. If the brakes or linings were ever replaced, I don't know. But, I do know when mowing my yard, I have a place where I need a really sharp turn around, and I use the (independent) right brake pedal. The tractor turns on a dime when I do that! I have tried left turn same way, it turns on a dime that way also. Anecdote: When I park tractor in barn, I use the right brake, and set the parking latch on that pedal. Sometimes I find I parked in wrong spot and cannot close the barn door. I cannot move the tractor by manually grabbing the rear tire and pushing or pulling until I release the parking latch. So, AFAIK my rear brakes work ok. That's my story...
.
Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
.

 

[duey]

My Dad used to say that tractors needed Good brakes and a Good governor... I suspect the average Ford N today is likely to be found Weak in Both categories... some other brands did excellently well in both... and these tractors, like all of us, are getting On in years. That was Dad's opinion, yours may vary!

 

[jimtrs]

(quoted from post at 13:15:51 04/14/23) What is with the brakes on a 9 N? My tractors been rebuilt, modified and all new brakes and get used very little. I have to almost stand on them to get it to stop(Doesn't help trying to stop with one side only). It almost impossible to lock them when parking on a hill. As far as I know there in no Oil leakage. Is that just how they are? My WD Allis-Chalmers will lock up the wheels and slide if I brake medium hard. Just wondering? Cleddy

Often times the drums are worn unevenly, a worn sport in the center of the drum. 70 -- 80 years of wear. Then add new shoes and they are only grabbing on the very edges. The drums need to be trued up. Not an easy task on a 9N, 2N.

 

[Jerry9N]

Best advice I ever got on this forum was to remove the bolt from the inspection plate when you fill the tranny, don't use the dipstick.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 18:05:21 04/14/23) My Dad used to say that tractors needed Good brakes and a Good governor...

my N's governor is fine. now, what are these "brakes" you speak of?

 

[hd6gtom]

My old friend told me, in the 1960's, Henry Ford made the brakes on N fords just a little bit better than those on a covered wagon. He worked on ford tractors all his life. Good luck with them.

 

[Leroy]

I do know the brakes on my 44 2N were never very good from the start and they have never been apart. Now the 41 9N I bought about 20 years ago the brakes were good on it.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Drum brake is a drum brake.
Real fast, did you turn the drums to expose new metal or use the same age hardened facing?
Did you take a coarse bassturd file and chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the brake shoe so the center contacts the drum, and not just the edges of the new shoe?
Arcing brake shoes on cars is no longer legal and most of those old machines are now long gone.
you do that and you will notice a difference.
Or just add about 80# weight to your arsp and the additional ballast might help slightly.
Pass the biskits!!!

 

[cleddy]

I will take a look at the linings. When I got the tractor it had almost no brakes and the guy that had it worked up & down the bluffs in western Iowa. I'm not sure what all we done to it but know it has the new improved oil seals. I need to get used to standing on both brakes and my 240 should handle it. I think it is much better than when they were Oil soaked. Thanks for all the answers. Cleddy

 

[Leeland07]

For what it is worth, there are a few things that most folks over look when dealing with drum brakes, they simply are not good to go if just installed. All new parts or not, some things need to be done to make sure drums have there best possible start. One in particular is turning the drums if the metal is there to do so, if not, find a way to spin it and roughen the surface glaze. This is a must, there has to be a hopefully new surface to bed the new shoes to. Second. Fit the shoe. Put system together and while the tire is still off, bolt the drum into place for safety, adjust properly, and on the stands, try and use the motor to slowly spin the drum while applying the brake. Remove the drum and see the wear patterns. Then hit the places that are high down a bit with a flat file. Try to arc the show to fit the drum a little more closely. It will take patience, a lot of it. I think I did the off and on five or six times with my right side alone. I stoped when I got about 40% contact, then did the rest by letting the tractor run the rest in. They will get better and better right up until they go metal to metal again. ;-). Just keep them adjusted, clean and roll on brother. These tractors take a little fiddling now and then, but in the end you find you love them almost as much as the rest of us. The rest will come the first time you pull fifty feet of hundred year old pine, standing on the rears alone, and steer it off the pedals. It is scary, but hooked up right it is crazy fun once you put it down half a mile or so later... stay safe! MTP ....

 

[cleddy]

Next question- How do you look at them. The brakes appear to involve tearing the whole rear end off the tractor. I do have the manual so will look at that before doing anything??? Cleddy

 

[jimtrs]

(quoted from post at 16:21:43 04/16/23) Drum brake is a drum brake.
Real fast, [b:2a6a530e43][i:2a6a530e43]did you turn the drums to expose new metal[/i:2a6a530e43][/b:2a6a530e43] or use the same age hardened facing?

(quoted from post at 19:26:34 04/16/23) All new parts or not, some things need to be done to make sure drums have there best possible start. [b:2a6a530e43][i:2a6a530e43]One in particular is turning the drums[/i:2a6a530e43][/b:2a6a530e43] if the metal is there to do so ...

As I said in my earlier post in this thread,

Not an easy task on a 9N, 2N

Actually about impossible.
You can / should at least scuff them up.

(quoted from post at 08:29:12 04/18/23) Next question- How do you look at them. The brakes appear to involve tearing the whole rear end off the tractor

On a 9N / 2N remove the rear wheel. Watch out if they're loaded. Unbolt the 6 bolts, or nuts, or combination of, that secure the rear hub to the axle housing. Remove the entire axle / hub / drum / brake assembly, and set upright. Then pull the backing plate and brake assembly up over the axle.