Briggs 23D no spark

[Chip H]

Hi guys, I read through old threads on this topic but couldn't find a solution so I'm throwing it back out there, hoping someone can help!

I have a 23D with no spark as well. I replaced points, plug and condeser and gapped to .020, still nothing. Kull wire is disconnected so no grounding issue from there. I replaced the coil with a fresh winding from antiquebriggs.com, gapped to .o11", cleaned up magnets. With emery cloth and they seem strong to me. Replaced spark plug wire and checked connections, still nothing. Replaced points with electronic module...nothing. I'm at a loss, any ideas guys? Is there a kit to convert to a 12V coil?

 

[Oregon Tractor Jack]

Do you have a volt ohm meter or a test light? You should do a little trouble shooting to see if you are getting power to the coil. Also make sure your polarity to the coil is correct. Power to the plus and points/distributor to the minus if you have a negative ground system.
Good Luck

OTJ

 

[Geo-TH,In]

If you have points and a condenser, I don't see any reason you can put a 12v external coil on it if you have a 12v battery.

 

[Chip H]

Gents, thanks for the quick responses. OTJ, I get 7.33 ohms] from the coil between the spark plug wire and windings wire from the coil. Also .3]])) between windings wire and ground (neg. Grnd)) There's oly 3 wires off the coil, spark plug, braided neg., and coil windings lead (to points)

Geo, I do have a 12v batt for elec start but don't I need some kind of resistor?

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Gents, thanks for the quick responses. OTJ, I get 7.33 ohms] from the coil between the spark plug wire and windings wire from the coil. Also .3]])) between windings wire and ground (neg. Grnd)) There's oly 3 wires off the coil, spark plug, braided neg., and coil windings lead (to points)

Geo, I do have a 12v batt for elec start but don't I need some kind of resistor?

You need a resistor if you use a 6v coil. I had a 1960 Cub cadet that didn't use a resistor, instead it used a 12v coil.
I think you need to remove the old coil wire to the points and condenser and the kill wire goes to the negative of the 12v coil and the positive of the coil goes to the ignition switch to turn the +12v on and off. Try it and see if it works.
Leave the condenser where it is.

 

[Chip H]

Thanks Geo. I should prob just bag the magneto and go this route. Ive seen wiring diagrams with ballast resistors incorporated but that may be for multi-cyl engines? Anyway, thanks for your help!

 

[Fritz Maurer]

The flywheel key is partially sheared.... the flywheel magnet and the points are not in sync.

It is an aluminum key.

 

[scootergmc]

Flywheel issue

 

[olddog]

Since you have changed the coil, check out the north/south pole orientation of the coil vs the flywheel magnets.
I've seen some UToobs done on this especially when converting to electronic ign.

 

[Chip H]

Thanks guys. I've rung out the whole system to eliminate grounding issues with kill wire eliminated and ensured good coil ground. Flywheel key is intact, tight and hasn't moved land coil windings can really only go in one way since the spark plug lug is on the face not coming from the top. BUT, I installed a new battery and didn't check the charge level, rookie. I'm wondering if its not turning fast enough that it may not be able to produce spark?

 

[Fritz Maurer]

If you have bypassed the points with a module, the trouble is either a faulty coil, module, or your installation.

I ordered 3 solid state ignition units from DB Electrical for a Kohler 18 hp twin.... all bad. The trigger module in all of of them. Finally bit the bullet for the 100$ coil from Kohler.

.011 is a lot of gap, try .006" Pry up on the flywheel to take the slop out of the main bearing as you set the gap

 

[Chip H]

Ok, thanks Fritz, I'll give it a shot. How can you test if the electronic module is bad?

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I never had the opportunity to test a Magnetron module, if that's what it is, but some part of it has to have a Hall Effect sensor inside... if you had a needle analog meter, the needle might fluctuate when the engine is spun. The actual reading is not important, the fact that there is electrical activity in there is what you’re trying to determine.

But you have replied all the original components , there is no reason the original system shouldn't work. There is a single strand of wire touching ground somewhere out of sight, the ground lead on the coil not hooked up, pinched primary wire, points damaged somehow, spec of dirt between them.... there's not much to this system, you should be able to figure it out.

If you had some means of spinning the engine continuously, you can test your new coil by holding, or more accurately, brushing, the primary wire out of the coil lightly against a clean ground .....with the engine spinning, small sparks will occur here from the AC voltage generated in the primary circuit. If you have a spark plug in place to view, it will also spark occasionally when the circuit is broken at the right time.

 

[TomA in CA]

I have been struggling with a 6.5 Predictor that stopped suddenly. Original had a frayed ground wire. 3 new coils and no spark. I have always left ground wire disconnected to take it out of the equation. I noticed a little box near kill switch that might be a capacitor. Hooked up grounding wire and now have spark. I don't have great understanding of pointless systems.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Regarding this module you replaced... is it a whole new coil with the module built in, or the one that clips in between the armature legs to go pointless?

 

[Chip H]

Its the module itself, using separate coil. You're totally right Fritz, there aintmuch to it which adds to the frustration. Coil's got clean ground and primary's clear. I'm going to try your other suggestion of reducing air gap, just got to pull the motor again.

 

[Chip H]

Thanks Fritz! I reduced the air gap as yo7 suggesrlted and went back to the points/condeser set up...she's now running like a champ. Thanks for sticking with me, I wouldn't have gotten it orherwise!

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Thanks Fritz! I reduced the air gap as yo7 suggesrlted and went back to the points/condeser set up...she's now running like a champ. Thanks for sticking with me, I wouldn't have gotten it orherwise!