Broken mount

[dyoungen]

My tractor, a 1954 NAA, has a broken mount on the rearend. Not completely broken but about 1/2 broken. It's on the rearend and I"m wondering if it can be fixed without replacing the whole rearend housing. Here are two pictures so you can see what I"m talking about.

 

[souNdguy]

I'm not the TOH.. but.. I'd at least try to get it brazed. Stick a wood dowel thru and then braze it up after wire wheeling it all down to bare metal at the braze site.

if you are the adventureous type.. I'd even try welding it using some rod for cast iron, and a lil torch preheeat and peening.

 

[Sean in PA]

Once you get it fixed you should do something about that bolt sticking down from the top link, as it looks like that may be what cracked the housing to begin with. At least flip it over so that only the bolt head is sticking out the bottom and the nut, washers and extra bolt shaft are sticking out the top where they can't collide with the part that got cracked.

 

[mhb@ufe]

The bolt you have going through the housing is also too small wich will allow it to twist and put uneven pressure on the housing and also it will hammer back and forth increasing the stress on it so that should be replaced with the correct size bolt or bin. You also should not be using the top hole, lower that down to the bottom hole.

Mark

 

[Dean]

I doubt that it will hold up to serious work without replacement but a good weld job should hold up to routine work and you have little to loose by trying.

Dean

 

[Mike Groom]

You could also make a brace to come from each side and bolt it to the two bolts on the housing if you're good at fabricating,put the right size bolt in and thru the hole in the brace from the sides to take some pressure off the center hole.

 

[showcrop]

I agree with Dean that it can be repaired and will probably be good if you don't expect it to do hard work. The replacement would not cost much but of course it will take a few hours to put it in.

 

[old]

Do you still have to part that broke off?? Also using the correct pins, Not bolts will help you by being snug in the hole so that the looseness does not cause that. Me I would if I had the broken part weld it back in place with Ni-rod and then I would be sure to use the correct pins NEVER a bolt

 

[John Smith8N]

Not that it makes any difference to the subject at hand, but your tractor appears to be a 600, not a NAA.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 11:36:01 12/17/13)
Not that it makes any difference to the subject at hand, but your tractor appears to be a 600, not a NAA.

How is that John? By the remains of the trailer light plug?

 

[Fordfarmer]

I'm guessing by the casting itself. I can't place
exactly what it is without going out to the shed and
looking at my Jube, but something just doesn't look
quite right for a Jubilee.

 

[John Smith8N]

The NAA rear center housing had wings on each side of the center mount, just like the 8N for the long 486 pin to fit in. They were eliminated with the 600 model. You can also see part of a hole in the right lift arm and the down turned fork end. NAA lift arms did not have that hole or the down turn. Only the later models had that type of arm. Narrow seat spring. NAA had the wider spring like the 8N. I think something else stood out, but I've forgotten what it was.
Oh yeah, 2 hole rocker vs 3 hole for the NAA. I missed the trailer light remains.

 

[sunbeam]

The top holes in the upper link are for very light draft. It is east to bend the link inside the top lid. The dealer I worked for would have us cut them off.

 

[Keith Williams]

Sunbeam,
That top hole was used to get more response from the system for lighter loads than plowing. I used it for my corn planter for instance. The planter followed the ground better using draft mode and that top hole.
Keith

 

[dyoungen]

Thanks for all the ideas. I"ll drop the mount from the top to the bottom hole. As for when it broke out, this is the way I bought it a couple years ago and the missing part well I'd guess its MIA. From the looks it was broke out before it was painted because the whole broken out section, the jagged edges are painted orange. Sorry the pictures aren't that good, I'll try to get some better pictures today.

 

[souNdguy]

you can get pics if you want.. but the damage is pretty clear.. and limited options for repair..

 

[NoNewParts]

if it was my only tractor, I'd replace the center,
or if one of many, demote it to light duty or drawbar work.

repair, I might try a narrow strap, thick as I could fit in there, ...along the top, over the break, down the back ridge, welded or brazed.
or
steel triangular brackets bolted on each side, with a hole in each at the proper spot, then use the 'long pin' setup of the earlier models to give it some extra support