Bucket hook location

[steveo3000]

(quoted from post at 19:35:26 08/12/23)
I would do some research and searching to see about adding the second bucket cylinder, before adding more hooks.

Yes I agree, that is the priority over adding more hooks. It looks like it s fairly straightforward to add another one

 

[paul]

First off I have never ever seen a loader with only one tilt cylinder offset to one side like that. It has failure written all
over it, loaders take abuse, to start off off center stresses that just isnt going to hold up no matter what you do.

I bought a little loader tractor, NH, years ago and it had a hook welded in the bottom center of the bucket. What a
stupid location I thought. Well, over a decade later, it sure has been handy, and well located for lifting stuff, and not
really as much in the way as one would think. It would be at the green location.

But, without a cylinder in the red circle, I dont understand your loader geometry at all. Doesnt look like the bracket
is there for the needed 2nd cylinder? Never seen anything like that. Cant see it holding up to much of a load the
way it is.

You have a good question and concern, you want the hook centered for loader stability, but it wont work right with
that single tilt cylinder. If you put the hook over by the cylinder the tilt will stay straight, but you will twist the main
loader frame over time, and be unstable/ offset load kind of dangerous every time you lift something. No good
options there.

I got a little bit bigger loader last year and has no hook. I will hook on the loader back to lift stuff. I notice right away if
I dont have the chain near center, a heavy lift will make the tractor very tippy and unstable.

Paul

 

[showcrop]

Much ado about nothing here!!! Look at the tiny size of that bucket relative to the arms! Any loader on any tractor could be made unsafe by putting an oversized bucket onto it and then overloading it. Sometimes you have to quit worrying and get out of bed and get something done!

 

[steveo3000]

(quoted from post at 08:00:50 08/13/23)

Much ado about nothing here!!! Look at the tiny size of that bucket relative to the arms! Any loader on any tractor could be made unsafe by putting an oversized bucket onto it and then overloading it. Sometimes you have to quit worrying and get out of bed and get something done!

Maybe it s the perspective of the image, but I didn t think it was that small of a bucket! :lol: It s larger than the one on my father in laws Deere, similar size tractor. And his is bent to all hell on top!

I ve hung a sizeable log from the bottom lip on center, offset, and also wrapped around the bucket on center, and hooked to the bracket for the tilt cylinder. I d say the worst feeling spot (uneasy driving) was off center both ways.

Also, I m glad to have shown someone something they ve never ever seen before with the single cylinder! 8)
This loader is a 727, I believe standard-ish model for the 4000 tractor. Just more info

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 04:35:46 08/13/23)

(quoted from post at 08:00:50 08/13/23)

Much ado about nothing here!!! Look at the tiny size of that bucket relative to the arms! Any loader on any tractor could be made unsafe by putting an oversized bucket onto it and then overloading it. Sometimes you have to quit worrying and get out of bed and get something done!

Maybe it s the perspective of the image, but I didn t think it was that small of a bucket! :lol: It s larger than the one on my father in laws Deere, similar size tractor. And his is bent to all hell on top!

I ve hung a sizeable log from the bottom lip on center, offset, and also wrapped around the bucket on center, and hooked to the bracket for the tilt cylinder. I d say the worst feeling spot (uneasy driving) was off center both ways.

Also, I m glad to have shown someone something they ve never ever seen before with the single cylinder! 8)
This loader is a 727, I believe standard-ish model for the 4000 tractor. Just more info

Steve, my response was intended more towards other responders advice to you than to you.

 

[steveo3000]

Thanks showcrop! What I find interesting is the array of different responses that not only point out the different options tractors have, but how it influences confidence to use a machine in a certain way, and then mix it in with personal experience.

 

[steveo3000]

(quoted from post at 09:06:08 08/13/23) Thanks showcrop! What I find interesting is the array of different responses that not only point out the different options tractors have, but how it influences confidence to use a machine in a certain way, and then mix it in with personal experience.

No luck installing today ( did get my food plot in) but here s a pic of some logs I hauled over from my neighbors.

 

[paul]

I guess that is a 727 model? Never seen one set up like that.

Loaders get beat up pretty bad by most folk over the years.

I never would have thought of setting up a loader offset like that, from the factory, it just doesnt seem squared up for
the long haul.

Paul

 

[showcrop]

Steve, if I wanted to drag those logs using your tractor I would put my cross drawbar between the lift arms, and use the three point to lift the front of the logs and then drag them.

 

[Hemmjo]

(quoted from post at 17:42:15 08/13/23)

(quoted from post at 09:06:08 08/13/23) Thanks showcrop! What I find interesting is the array of different responses that not only point out the different options tractors have, but how it influences confidence to use a machine in a certain way, and then mix it in with personal experience.

No luck installing today ( did get my food plot in) but here s a pic of some logs I hauled over from my neighbors.

Do you have a saw mill, or is that firewood? Just curious. Always wanted a saw mill.

Did you move that big gnarly, crotched log with your bucket?

You may want to consider your 3-point hitch for large logs. You could even make a narrow axle if you don't want to drag them.

I have moved, dragged, some big logs using the 3 point hitch on my Ford 860. Largest was a 40' spruce log that was 18-20" at the base. I have a piece of pipe about 2' long with a 3/4" nut welded on each end. Then a 3/4 bolt goes through the eye of a grab hook, through the end of the lift arm on each side and screws into the pipe. Drop a chain over the top of the log about 1-2 feet back from the end. Cross the chain ends under the log then up to the hooks. Just lift the log enough to keep the end from gouging into the ground. A big log will lift the front wheels of your tractor but it wont flip as the log hits the ground before you get too high. The extra weight of the log, centered low on the back will actually stabilize the tractor and provide more traction for stronger pull. Steer with the brakes if necessary. If use an axle you won't scuff up the ground.

For moving logs you fear may bend your bucket, would be safer, easier and cost less to make the hooks and even axle than to add a cylinder to the bucket. Then risk tipping the tractor. Use the bucket for smaller, cut logs and moving firewood around.

Wish I had a video of my daughters eyes as she started to drag that big log and the front wheels came up. That is the day she learned to brake steer.

 

[steveo3000]

(quoted from post at 08:14:28 08/14/23)

(quoted from post at 17:42:15 08/13/23)

(quoted from post at 09:06:08 08/13/23) Thanks showcrop! What I find interesting is the array of different responses that not only point out the different options tractors have, but how it influences confidence to use a machine in a certain way, and then mix it in with personal experience.

No luck installing today ( did get my food plot in) but here s a pic of some logs I hauled over from my neighbors.

Do you have a saw mill, or is that firewood? Just curious. Always wanted a saw mill.

Did you move that big gnarly, crotched log with your bucket?

You may want to consider your 3-point hitch for large logs. You could even make a narrow axle if you don't want to drag them.

I have moved, dragged, some big logs using the 3 point hitch on my Ford 860. Largest was a 40' spruce log that was 18-20" at the base. I have a piece of pipe about 2' long with a 3/4" nut welded on each end. Then a 3/4 bolt goes through the eye of a grab hook, through the end of the lift arm on each side and screws into the pipe. Drop a chain over the top of the log about 1-2 feet back from the end. Cross the chain ends under the log then up to the hooks. Just lift the log enough to keep the end from gouging into the ground. A big log will lift the front wheels of your tractor but it wont flip as the log hits the ground before you get too high. The extra weight of the log, centered low on the back will actually stabilize the tractor and provide more traction for stronger pull. Steer with the brakes if necessary. If use an axle you won't scuff up the ground.

For moving logs you fear may bend your bucket, would be safer, easier and cost less to make the hooks and even axle than to add a cylinder to the bucket. Then risk tipping the tractor. Use the bucket for smaller, cut logs and moving firewood around.

Wish I had a video of my daughters eyes as she started to drag that big log and the front wheels came up. That is the day she learned to brake steer.

I don t have a sawmill yet, this will all be firewood. Indeed I did haul that large gnarly piece over. I try to not drag these types of pieces on the road (road commission prob loves that) to avoid large trails. I ve thought about some type of implement to use the lift arms. Like a boom pole of sorts. I m interested in seeing an image or few of what you have!

 

[steveo3000]

Realistically, this type of activity I believe would be short term like this. The long term solution would seem to be bucket forks or some type of 3 pt attachment.

 

[Hemmjo]

What I have is pretty simple hitch bar with two hooks on it. I have a 1 iron pipe about 18 long. I welded a 3/4 nut on each end. I got two grab hook for 3/8 chain. The hooks have an eye rather than clevis. On each side, a 3/4 bolt goes through stabilizer, through the hook eye, through the lift arm and into the nut welded onto the end of the pipe.

Not sure how to describe hooking the log to the hitch. See if this makes sense. At a point about 2-3 feet back from the front end of the log, drop a chain over the log so the center of the chain is on top of the log. Run the ends of the chain under the log so they cross under the log. Then run each chain to the hook on that side of the log. When you lift the 3-point, the log will lift and you can drag it. I would take a photo for you but I am working on my tractor, it is not running at the moment.

All of my logging happens on my own property so I just drag the logs. If you need to go on a public road you may want to get dolly wheels. Something like this photo, or just a
simple axle chained or ratchet strapped to the log.

 

[steveo3000]

(quoted from post at 17:16:19 08/16/23) What I have is pretty simple hitch bar with two hooks on it. I have a 1 iron pipe about 18 long. I welded a 3/4 nut on each end. I got two grab hook for 3/8 chain. The hooks have an eye rather than clevis. On each side, a 3/4 bolt goes through stabilizer, through the hook eye, through the lift arm and into the nut welded onto the end of the pipe.

Not sure how to describe hooking the log to the hitch. See if this makes sense. At a point about 2-3 feet back from the front end of the log, drop a chain over the log so the center of the chain is on top of the log. Run the ends of the chain under the log so they cross under the log. Then run each chain to the hook on that side of the log. When you lift the 3-point, the log will lift and you can drag it. I would take a photo for you but I am working on my tractor, it is not running at the moment.


<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto161040.png>

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto161038.png>

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto161039.png>

All of my logging happens on my own property so I just drag the logs. If you need to go on a public road you may want to get dolly wheels. Something like this photo, or just a
simple axle chained or ratchet strapped to the log.

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto161041.png>

All of it is great! I like how simple your 3pt rig is, and see exactly how it works. Also the dolly portion is good info, and may be visited.

 

[steveo3000]

Went with the center option. Really easy to install.
Kens bolt on hooks.

Pictures are loading…(smoke signals)

This post was edited by steveo3000 on 08/17/2023 at 09:16 am.

 

[Eman85]

If your loader is strong enough you will now find the weak link. I have lifted logs and the weight flattened the tires that had plenty of air. The front end can and will break if you get enough weight on it.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 09:04:47 08/17/23) If your loader is strong enough you will now find the weak link. I have lifted logs and the weight flattened the tires that had plenty of air. The front end can and will break if you get enough weight on it.

Eman85, I think that this is the case with every loader ever built, and perhaps every machine of any sort ever built. Even Anvils, so I have been told.

 

[Eman85]

(quoted from post at 09:57:14 08/17/23)

(quoted from post at 09:04:47 08/17/23) If your loader is strong enough you will now find the weak link. I have lifted logs and the weight flattened the tires that had plenty of air. The front end can and will break if you get enough weight on it.

Eman85, I think that this is the case with every loader ever built, and perhaps every machine of any sort ever built. Even Anvils, so I have been told.

true, but generally to break many things it takes effort and sweat. That's the beauty of hydraulics you can destroy things by pushing or pulling a lever.