buickanddeere

Have a question for you. I've read about every post I can find on the forum. My 620 needs the PTO clutch overhauled and I've purchased all the clutch parts. It does seem to get overfilled with oil from the trans. It's not a very large amount at all. Maybe 2 oz a year. I would like to switch the trans over to a wet disc friendly oil. I don't mind replacing the seal on the PTO pump. But I hate the idea of a seal leaking and ruining my brand new clutch n brake. What oil can I run in everything?
 
i am not b&d but have run hy guard or 303 in my late B fore many years. it was on a feeder wagon, like it to be able to put pto in gear right away and go when it 20 below don,t think i would run it if i was doing heavy field work all day long
 

I would think that rotella 15w40 would be a lil better than hy-gard. And it's twice the viscosity. And wet clutch safe. I'm not sure that I could run 50w in the PTO.
 
50wt is too viscous in the pto clutch. The windage and pumping losses will cause the clutch to operate at elevated temperatures . There would also be more of a tendency to windmill and stress the pto brake .
Hy-Gard in the pto.
Shell Rotella T1 sae 50 is wet clutch compatable when the pto shaft seal leaks .50wt motor oil is more viscous than 90wt gear lube and wi lube the gears just fine .
 
(quoted from post at 17:27:52 08/09/15) 50wt is too viscous in the pto clutch. The windage and pumping losses will cause the clutch to operate at elevated temperatures . There would also be more of a tendency to windmill and stress the pto brake .
Hy-Gard in the pto.
Shell Rotella T1 sae 50 is wet clutch compatable when the pto shaft seal leaks .50wt motor oil is more viscous than 90wt gear lube and wi lube the gears just fine .

I have had good luck with Schaeffer's oil. I think I may put Super Lube 10w in the PTO and 50 or 60 in the transmission.
 
You said you don't mind replacing the seal so why not do that and not worry about it for
the next 30 years.
 
(quoted from post at 21:34:11 08/09/15) You said you don't mind replacing the seal so why not do that and not worry about it for
the next 30 years.

The seals that came in it were prob better quality than the ones I just bought to put in it. I don't like the idea of a seal failure screwing up another $300 worth of disc. I think that 90w isn't the best option. And the better option to me is the one that can't hurt anything.
 
I have put in a lot of the new two seal instead of one and they are just as good or better than the origonals. There are two problems with running the light oil in the rear end. First the heavy oil deadens the sing of the straight cut gears in that gearbox, next if the seal is bad the oils seak a comon leval. To have the transmission full the PTO will be over full and tend to leak because of that. As far as lub quality it may be better than the heavy oil. The bottom line is if you install the seals corectly they are no problem at all.
 
(quoted from post at 09:38:51 08/10/15) I have put in a lot of the new two seal instead of one and they are just as good or better than the origonals. There are two problems with running the light oil in the rear end. First the heavy oil deadens the sing of the straight cut gears in that gearbox, next if the seal is bad the oils seak a comon leval. To have the transmission full the PTO will be over full and tend to leak because of that. As far as lub quality it may be better than the heavy oil. The bottom line is if you install the seals corectly they are no problem at all.

I agree on most of what your saying. The 50w oil that I'm thinking about using is thicker than 80w90 gear oil. And there's no chance that a acid will be made when/if the oil comes in contact with moisture.
 
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