Bush hog 3pt to Pull type conversion

[Cdog2cool4u]

I'll start of by saying I know the idea I had tonight is not the right answer but I'm curious if it would work. I have a Farmall B tractor that I would like to use to bush hog with however it does not have a 3pt hitch or fast hitch so any mower I can use would either have to be a pull type or belly mower. I've been struggling to find a 4ft pull type in my area and the field I'd like to mow is overgrown to the point where I don't want to overwork the tractor either with a 5ft or a belly mower. I have a 4ft three-point bush hog that I used with a different tractor. My crazy/creative idea I had tonight was. Could I attach the bush hog I have with 2 pieces of threaded rod one end connected to the mower and the other to the drawbar with one on each side of the mower to keep it from tipping and be able to raise and lower it by running a nut down the threads on top of the drawbar to adjust my cutting height. In my head as long as I get the mower deck in roughly the same area of the tractor that it would have been using the three-point that I shouldn't have too many issues with the PTO drive angles. Have any of you either had a similar idea, tried it, or can someone tell me why it wouldn't work? Would love to hear your thoughts.

This post was edited by Cdog2cool4u on 12/01/2023 at 02:09 am.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I think if it is that over grown you will severely be short of poop to po with only a B for the power supply. Running rotary mowers of any kind mowing tall over grown areas takes power which you don't have with a B. An H you might stand a chance and an M or even more would be better.

 

[Cdog2cool4u]

With power restrictions/attachment restrictions in mind with my current inventory. I've been leaning towards making my next tractor purchase to be an H and or a Super H with a three-point hitch. As much as I'd like to get an M I don't currently have a trailer that I could transport one with.

This post was edited by Cdog2cool4u on 12/01/2023 at 02:19 am.

 

[Jim.ME]

Lack of power aside. Pull type cutters often have two caster wheels at the back to limit tipping. A V-shaped pull tongue, built out from the mounting points of the three-point hitch to have a single point pin hole about 3 to 4 feet ahead of the deck would be nearer correct. You might not have room enough to turn hooked up as you described. (And the forces during operation and turning are more than I would trust threaded rod to handle.)

Here is an example of the same cutter deck set up as a 3-point and as a pull type, so you can compare.

 

[showcrop]

Your description of your plan makes it sound like the two pieces of threaded rod would be vertical and the front of the mower would be under the drawbar? Without the ability to lift I think that you would be constantly starting and stopping as your low gear would probably be too fast.

 

[Ohio88]

If it is that overgrown and you want to use the B then raise it up several inches, mow it wait a few day so the cut stuff can dry and mow it lower. After a couple tries you will have it where you want it.

 

[Russ from MN]

A good simple example of the conversion on the King Kutter! About being short on power, that should only be an issue on the first pass, after that only take what your tractor can handle. I used a 5-foot King Kutter on a JD M, only about 20 hp and it worked. I had built a 3-point for the tractor, but I didn't use a top link, as the tractor was too light to lift the whole cutter.

 

[Russ from MN]

Something else to keep in mind, if there is any brush over 1/4 inch in diameter, you will want to mow it short the first time, otherwise the sharp little stubs can puncture tires.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 12:18:03 12/01/23) Something else to keep in mind, if there is any brush over 1/4 inch in diameter, you will want to mow it short the first time, otherwise the sharp little stubs can puncture tires.

There should be no "sharp little stubs" because we don't sharpen our three point rotary mower blades.

 

[old]

Years ago I came up with a 3 point brush hog very cheap but it was a 3 point one and all I had was a 1935 JD B so I made a sort of 3 point but with no lift. I made a bracket that bolted to the B and used chain the hold each 3 point sort of arms up

 

[MF#1]

In my opinion, if you got it mounted with the rods when you start mowing you would probably not be happy with the results. There is a reason why a 3PH is firmly attached to the mower, the rods wouldn't be strong enough to keep it in the right position to mow. Hit a ditch or uneven terrain and you could tear up the driveline and maybe more. I would suggest selling the 4 foot mower and try to find one more useable with your B, OR borrow a pull type or a tractor with a 3PH or hire it done, you'd come out ahead. If you rig up something with heavier iron like old mentioned it -could- work but it's still ONLY a 4 foot mower that wouldn't even cut out the width of the wheels. You would end up running over most of the grass instead of mowing it. I've been known to jury-rig a lot of things but rotary mowers aren't one of them. Good Luck with whatever you decide!

 

[Cdog2cool4u]

(quoted from post at 10:09:39 12/01/23)

Your description of your plan makes it sound like the two pieces of threaded rod would be vertical and the front of the mower would be under the drawbar? Without the ability to lift I think that you would be constantly starting and stopping as your low gear would probably be too fast.

My thought was I would use the threaded rod as a lift system by adjusting a nut to raise and lower it and just run it at a set height for the whole field and run it at a lower point the next time I cut the field.

 

[Cdog2cool4u]

The more I've thought about it the more reasons I find not do it. I've begun looking into buying an H and using a bigger mower. I was hesitant to try my crazy concoction of an idea to start with. I do have agree with your summarization that a rotary mower has enough inherent hazards to begin with without adding questionable methods of connecting to the tractor.

 

[Cdog2cool4u]

I really do appreciate all of your thoughts, concerns, and comments in response to my mental exercise and query. Yall have most certainly reaffirmed a few concerns I had and illuminated a few more I hadn't thought of. Thank you for being my Jiminy Crickets preventing me from attempting a hair brained idea that probably could have resulted in either injury to myself or damage to my equipment.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Oh I wouldn't call it a hair-brained idea. I've seen 3pt finish mowers mounted rigidly to the hoop drawbars on tractors and dragged around. What you're proposing isn't much different.

You just need to fabricate a pair of brackets that fit over the 3pt pins on the mower and then bolt to the drawbar of your B. Kind of an L-shaped deal, I'd imagine, out of some pretty stout bar stock. Doesn't have to be complicated.

Don't worry about "overworking" your tractor. It's not possible. Either it's going to work or it's going to lug down and stall.

 

[Texasmark]

On the PTO drive angles, I had ONE pull type early in the life of my farm 45 years ago. The thing that I disliked most about it was PTO vibration in turns. Apparently I didn't have a properly spaced draw bar such that the angles were even enough to prevent vibrations in turns. Course I guess installing a CV joint on one end....tractor end...would solve that. Something to think about. My JD baler and swather (530 and 1209) had a drawbar extension to be used with the pair that did an excellent job of little to no vibrations and allowed me to cut square corners with the 1209 such that I had no X corners to clean up after cutting.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 10:44:17 12/03/23) On the PTO drive angles, I had ONE pull type early in the life of my farm 45 years ago. The thing that I disliked most about it was PTO vibration in turns. Apparently I didn't have a properly spaced draw bar such that the angles were even enough to prevent vibrations in turns. Course I guess installing a CV joint on one end....tractor end...would solve that. Something to think about. My JD baler and swather (530 and 1209) had a drawbar extension to be used with the pair that did an excellent job of little to no vibrations and allowed me to cut square corners with the 1209 such that I had no X corners to clean up after cutting.

When it's only a 2-knuckle PTO shaft it's impossible to make the drawbar long enough to get the angles right. That's my problem.

The two options are a CV joint or modifying the mower for a 3-knuckle PTO shaft. Neither one is an inexpensive option. A CV joint shaft is over $1000, more than I spent on the whole mower. The parts to build a 3-knuckle are more than the mower is worth too. We have an old 50 chopper that I suppose I could cannibalize for parts, but I've been watching auctions for years looking for bits and pieces I could use. Ideally I'd love to find a PTO shaft off a later New Idea spreader, as those have CV joints.

 

[showcrop]

The local drive line shop here has a working model of a shaft with two smoothly turning U-joints.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 13:16:58 12/05/23)

The local drive line shop here has a working model of a shaft with two smoothly turning U-joints.

Yes, but there's a science to it. In a straight line it doesn't much matter, but when you turn if you don't get your angles right, the joints chatter.

In order for the joints to operate smoothly, the distance from the hitch pin has to be exactly in between the tip of the tractor PTO shaft and the tip of the mower gearbox shaft.

The way the mower came FROM THE FACTORY, the distance from the tip of the gearbox shaft to the pin is about 60" where the distance from the tractor PTO shaft to the pin is only 14". It's a design flaw.