buying a replacement carb. for a generator

[SDE]

It is an 11 hp B&S engine on a Coleman 5000 generator. Is there a number on the carb. to reference or is it the one on the engine? What is this device on the side of the carburetor? There is a wire that is hanging loose that has a connector on it. Where should that go? Then there is the broken off wire. Is that supposed to be connected to the underside of the round part, like the other two wires? When we had a power outage, I poured gas into the tank and it was running out of the carburetor until I started the engine. Then it stopped leaking, but the engine was running to fast. It was suggested that I buy a new carburetor and if I need one, I hope to order the correct one. I had only started it twice since I bought it at an auction and so I really don't have any past history with it.
TY
SDE

 

[1946 BN IHC]

Check out E BAY That is where we found the correct carb for our Onan Gen., on our Coachmen RV for $50.00 rather than for $700.00 from Onan.

 

[guido]

SDE

Usually the carb is marked.

Here is one example

Guido.

 

[Bob Bancroft]

Should be a bunch of numbers stamped into the shroud. With them a B&S dealer should be able to get the correct parts for that engine.

 

[cwtech]

Gas was leaking out of the carb because the float valve was hanging open. ...Since the leak stopped when the engine was running does not appear to be a problem.

I was a small-engine mechanic for many years and never believed in additives, but I have experienced some positive results with the addition of Seafoam to the gas tank. ...I would buy Seafoam (approx $10) and try that before buying a new carb.

To get the part number of a replacement carb, you need the Model, Type, & Code number from the B&S engine. ...These are usually stamped into the sheet metal flywheel shroud.

As far as the engine running too fast, how did you determine that? ...Generators usually operate at a fixed rpm and are set to provide the correct voltage. ...A faulty governor or binding throttle linkage can allow the engine to run too fast, but a carburetor will not.

The fact that the existing carb is not painted indicates it has already been replaced.

 

[Steve@Advance]

I would ease the carb apart and try cleaning it.

It's probably just got dried gas residue in it.

The replacement carbs are often not as good as the original, and may not have the exact throttle and choke linkage. Some are fit-alls that will need to be adapted to work.

Also make sure the tank is clean and replace the fuel hoses. They can degrade inside and flake chunks of rubber that foul the needle valve. The carb must have clean, fresh gas to work.

As for the RPM, that is critical to make the correct voltage and cycle. There are test instruments to plug in to set the speed. It needs to be under moderate load when the governor spring is adjusted.

Not sure what the electrical thing is, looks like a solenoid of some kind, maybe it was an electric choke, just a guess. Is there any mechanical linkage attached to it?

 

[tractorguy2]

Your carb just needs a good cleaning and a kit. Running too fast is most likely the throttle shaft gummed up and stuck in the wide open position.

For about $80 you can buy an ultra sonic cleaner. They work good on carburetors.

 

[DoubleO7]

I think most gensets have a low oil and/or pressure, engine shutdown sensor(s) and switch(s).

 

[MarkB_MI]

I would look for a model number on the engine itself.

 

[guido]

SDE,

Is is not worth the time to fool with the carb,

Guido.

 

[SDE]

I did copy the numbers off the shroud. I attempted to use them to find a replacement carburetor but I wasn't happy about the results.
I had looked at ebay and the description said that the carbs. listed were for the 14 to 16 hp engines, even though I had typed in for 11 hp.
Not painted. I hadn't thought about this being a replacement already. That is probably why I am not seeing any numbers on it.
I included the picture because I haven't a clue what that round thing is or what it is supposed to do. I don't see it being anything mechanical, because other than being mounted to the carb., it doesn't connect to anything else.
I attempted to clean the carb.. I didn't see anything in the valve or seat and I did spray them before putting back together. It still had a steady stream of gas pouring out after I put it back on.
I had hoped that someone might be familiar with this model and tell me if that round thing came with the generator or has been added by a previous owner for some unknown reason.
TY
SDE

 

[guido]

SAE,
I forgot to tell you about that thing. Looks like a manual choke missing the operating cable going to the hole on the top side of the sliding lever, which appears to be factory and spring loaded,


Guido.

 

[wore out]

Note there is a tab attached to the throttle shaft that lines up with the plunger at the top of the electrical device. POSSIBLY The device is the actuator for an electronic governor or some type of anti-dieseling solenoid or ''throttle kicker''.

 

[guido]

SDE,

Like I said, get the number off the carb. Better yet, take it off and match it by picture and description of what is supposed to fit,

Guido.

 

[guido]

wore out

Not seeing the other side, it may have some other kind of actuator other the the hole, but I doubt it

Guido.

 

[T.R.K.]

If you go the 'clean it yourself' route, be aware that the main jet goes in behind the lower needle and also passes into the top of the carburetor. If you separate the two halves, you will bend or break the jet.

There was a 'service short' on the B@S website on those carburetors several years ago. It seems that the lower end of that main jet has to seat tight into the bowl portion of the carburetor or it will be an additional path for fuel to bypass the main jet and leak into the carburetor throat. The fix (according the the video) was to use a modified old jet and lap the place above the threads in the bowl with lapping compound, and then use a certain part number sealing washer (no longer available) to seal the main jet into the bowl of the carburetor.

I tried to order those washers because there are several of those old carburetors still on the place here, but they were unavaiable.

 

[wore out]

(quoted from post at 19:03:21 01/10/23) wore out

''Not seeing the other side, it may have some other kind of actuator other the the hole, but I doubt it''

Guido.

Take another look, the ''tab'' attached with a screw (that would NOT be found on all carbs for that engine series) to the throttle shaft is not a ''standard'' B/S part and lines up with the ''plunger'' below it.

Can you see it now?

 

[SDE]

Yes I do see it. When the throttle shaft is rotated to the end of its travel it is within a 1/4 inch of the button, but it doesn't make contact. I guess I could adjust the height of the cylinder so that it makes contact. I am going to assume that when the tab makes contact with the button that it grounds out the system and momentarily shuts it down.
Any idea what the thing is called?

I have a tendency to do the wrong thing first and then have a more complicated repair to finish it. I guess I am not out anything to take it off and see if there is anyway to determine if the broken wire is supposed to attach to it.
TY
SDE

 

[wore out]

I suspect that before the wire broke and the system was still working properly the ''button'' would rise up and control/govern the position of the butterfly shaft.

 

[John in Ct]

My 1986 generator has a carb that looks kind of like yours. If the carbs are the same, that carb is very easy to take apart and
rebuild. I even took it apart when I had no power and only a flash light to work with. Now I run it dry and right before it is
dry, I dump some 50:1 premixed gas (no ethanol) to get any remaining gas to be ethanol free. When I ordered up a carb kit, it
came with 2 needles. The not needed one is lighter and perfect size to use in an IH Cub.
Needel/ seat #394681, Gasket carb body#692215, gasket intake# 692214, gasket Nozzle (High speed screw)#691610