CA 6 volt Starter Question

tamuron79

New User
I have a 1950 CA and am restoring it. I kept it 6 volt but am having problem starting with the starter. New starter, starter switch, and battery. 90 lbs compression in all 4 cylinders. New Rings and Sleeves. Ran when Pulled Off.

Question: Is it save to jump off the starter with a 12 volt battery?
 
Maybe tune up the engine and it will start just fine. It’s the neglected 6 volt systems that people seam to have problems with. And your question , is it safe ? You got to know what you’re doing or can blow up a battery. I would disconnect the 6 volt and jump to the starter with 12 volt if I had a brain wave to do that. Switch the cables back before it stops. Or just pull it 10 ft.
 
Did you replace the battery cables? Did you use the thick ones for 6v, or just buy some car cables at the parts store? 6v needs thick cables.
AaronSEIA
 
I agree with Aaron on the cables. Cables as thick as your thumb. Make sure all the battery connections are super clean. Is the starter grounding good to the tractor? What is the problem with the starter? Turns slow, won't turn over? Try jumping the starter right from the battery. Maybe a bad switch? If the 6v is good no need to even think about 12v.
 
Is the end housing of the starter, that slides into the torque tube housing panted? The tapered set screw and socket in the starter housing it mates to needs to be bare clean metal. Paint can prevent the starter from grounding.
 
I have done it more times than I would like to admit. I put one clamp on a ground, usually right where the starter mounts and put the other right to the stud of the starter switch. A short burst of the starter usually does it. The starter will take the extra voltage but this will mostly isolate the rest of the wiring. Again, short bursts and pull the clamp off right away. The one I do this on is a quick starter though. I'd never do this on a hard starter.
 
I got tired of my C not starting so I changed to 12 volt, I fixed up an old 12 volt generator I had and now works well and looks original.
 
Is the end housing of the starter, that slides into the torque tube housing panted? The tapered set screw and socket in the starter housing it mates to needs to be bare clean metal. Paint can prevent the starter from grounding.
Thanks for your reply. Not Painted and clean.
 
I agree with Aaron on the cables. Cables as thick as your thumb. Make sure all the battery connections are super clean. Is the starter grounding good to the tractor? What is the problem with the starter? Turns slow, won't turn over? Try jumping the starter right from the battery. Maybe a bad switch? If the 6v is good no need to even think about 12v.
With the starter Pulled out a little but still grounded, it spins well with starter switch. All connections super clean. will double check timing and firing.
 
So does the starter turn the tractor over and it just won't fire up? Maybe just explain what is going on? As much info as you can give really helps out.
 
So does the starter turn the tractor over and it just won't fire up? Maybe just explain what is going on? As much info as you can give really helps out.
Pulling Starter Switch Rod will activate starter a few engine revolutions then just "click". Not sure if I can attach video to this reply or not..
 
Those starter switches are known to have contact issues. Be sure the contacts are clean and bright. position the switch case to get the best contact you can. I have slotted the mounting holes a bit on some to be sure the contacts are firmly together when the rod is pulled.
 
Check your battery cable connections. I had a WD-45 that would do the same thing and one cable was bad. Try going right from the battery to the starter lug with a jumper cable and see what happens. Like Jim said take the switch off and see if you can see any burn marks from the contacts. I have also slotted the mounting holes to get a better connection. I know you have a new starter but I finally had the starter lug replaced with a threaded stud and went to a solenoid and a push button switch. No more switch on the starter and no more problems. If you are considering going to 12v you would need a 12v solenoid but I left mine 6v.
 
Check your battery cable connections. I had a WD-45 that would do the same thing and one cable was bad. Try going right from the battery to the starter lug with a jumper cable and see what happens. Like Jim said take the switch off and see if you can see any burn marks from the contacts. I have also slotted the mounting holes to get a better connection. I know you have a new starter but I finally had the starter lug replaced with a threaded stud and went to a solenoid and a push button switch. No more switch on the starter and no more problems. If you are considering going to 12v you would need a 12v solenoid but I left mine 6v.
Thanks for your expertise! I'll let know how things go...
Those starter switches are known to have contact issues. Be sure the contacts are clean and bright. position the switch case to get the best contact you can. I have slotted the mounting holes a bit on some to be sure the contacts are firmly together when the rod is pulled.
I have just replaced a new starter switch that never touched the contacts when the Starter button was pushed all the way down. Thanks for your help!
 
Check your battery cable connections. I had a WD-45 that would do the same thing and one cable was bad. Try going right from the battery to the starter lug with a jumper cable and see what happens. Like Jim said take the switch off and see if you can see any burn marks from the contacts. I have also slotted the mounting holes to get a better connection. I know you have a new starter but I finally had the starter lug replaced with a threaded stud and went to a solenoid and a push button switch. No more switch on the starter and no more problems. If you are considering going to 12v you would need a 12v solenoid but I left mine 6v.
Thanks for your expertise!
 
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