My tire shop has it in a tank out back. They filled my tires with it but I don't know if they'd fill a drum for someone.
I had to wait a few day for their tank to be refilled before they had enough to load my tires. They said it would be their last calcium chloride delivery ever since it's not too popular anymore.
Royse
Well-known Member
- Location
- Ionia County, Michigan
I've done that too. The more you add, the more weight per gallon.
Up to a point, of course. I usually pump it out of tires I need to
change into a 55 gallon plastic barrel, then refill other tires with it.
John in Mich
Well-known Member
- Location
- Ypsilanti, Michigan
Some tire shops save drained CaCl and reuse it. Some of the salvagers or used tractor dealers will save it and give it away. In
the past I have had 4 55 gal plastic drums with it. After paying a big price at a tire shop to have tires loaded, I bought a pump
and loaded my own tires this way. Check around.
the past I have had 4 55 gal plastic drums with it. After paying a big price at a tire shop to have tires loaded, I bought a pump
and loaded my own tires this way. Check around.
Royse
Well-known Member
- Location
- Ionia County, Michigan
"Hasn't Rim Guard made it to your areas yet?"
Yes it has. It is almost three times as expensive as CaCl and weighs less.
Yes it has. It is almost three times as expensive as CaCl and weighs less.
Royse
Well-known Member
- Location
- Ionia County, Michigan
"Better off with used anti freeze. Wont corrode the rims."
This is the common thinking JimmyJack, and it's not wrong.
But Chloride won't corrode a rim either if it doesn't touch it.
If CaCl is contained within the tube, it doesn't touch the rim.
So it won't corrode/rust the rim either. And it weighs more.
When a tube leaks AND the owner ignores it, then the rim rusts.
If you have to add air to tube type tire filled with CaCl, fix the leak.
Don't delay, don't add air, fix the leak.
I spent a few hours draining one today that was ignored.
I'm hoping I'll be able to salvage the rim.
If you put CaCl in tubeless tires on an N, fill them with CaCl,
replace three sets of rims, then blame it on the tires and sell
them to me for a cheap price because those tires rust out rims,
well, I'll buy them and say thank you. True story. Really happened.
This is the common thinking JimmyJack, and it's not wrong.
But Chloride won't corrode a rim either if it doesn't touch it.
If CaCl is contained within the tube, it doesn't touch the rim.
So it won't corrode/rust the rim either. And it weighs more.
When a tube leaks AND the owner ignores it, then the rim rusts.
If you have to add air to tube type tire filled with CaCl, fix the leak.
Don't delay, don't add air, fix the leak.
I spent a few hours draining one today that was ignored.
I'm hoping I'll be able to salvage the rim.
If you put CaCl in tubeless tires on an N, fill them with CaCl,
replace three sets of rims, then blame it on the tires and sell
them to me for a cheap price because those tires rust out rims,
well, I'll buy them and say thank you. True story. Really happened.
Tim PloughNman Daley
Well-known Member
HiYa Gang-
We know what water does to ferrous metals. What Royse said about Ca Chl and corroding ferrous metals goes. The substance has to be in contact with the metal in order to oxidize. It will not harm the rubber/tube. The problem is once it starts leaking or once you get a thorn/nail/spike in the tire it will puncture the tube and the leaking will begin. Cheap valve stems often is where the leaking begins as well. The topic of alternative substances for ballast goes on forever. This is my opinion and my resolution to that issue. Windshield washer fluid has been one of the alternatives used and mentioned in the past. I'd be real cautious on where and what you buy. Nowadays, thanks to the green people and the EPA, all that stuff must be watered down. In the old days, the fluid was alcohol based so it wouldn't freeze. Nope, no more alcohol. Have you gone out to warm your car on a cold winter morning and tried to squirt the windshield? Often times you get nothing as the squirtholes (can I say that???) are plugged with ice. Another substance often used is anti-freeze. Don't look now but it is all watered down -read the labels. Many go to radiator shops where they often store the used anti-freeze in 55-gallon drums. Since it mixed from every customer they worked on, the used anti-freeze will contain water as well. My solution was to invest in the product called beet juice. Trademark name RIM GUARD ? and made by same in Wyoming, MI, it first appeared around 1998 and that is when I got rid of my Ca Chl in my original 8N Hat Rims and went with it instead. Beet juice was the nickname because the stuff is made from sugar beets-a plentiful Michigan crop. Well, guess what? The stuff is now in my 11.2 x 28 work Firestone Field & Road rear tires, originally was put in what I had then, ARMSTRONG 10 x 28's. The ARMSTRONGS were old, probably installed new in the 60's, and had started to dry rot out the walls. Boots were tried but did not work. In 2005 I had my local Firestone AG Tire dealer do all the grunt work -draining, installing new tubes and new the tires, and loading with Rim Guard, about 27 gallons per tire, and I have never looked back. I have never had a problem with Rim Guard,; never any leaks, nor other issues whatsoever. So, to the skeptics who say it too expensive are just making excuses to get by cheaply. I understand being on a tight budget, and often we must do what we can to make do, not what we know we should and can afford to do. You can use whatever you want, I'm just giving out my words of wisdom. With washer fluid, used ant-freeze, or Ca Chl -just watch closely for signs of leaking more often, especially if you have the hard to find decent hat rims. In my opinion, RIM GUARD is the best thing on the market and you can read all about in the LINK provided. Oh, and in case you are wondering, I am not a stockholder, just a very satisfied customer.
MY 1948 8N w/ARMSTRONG 10 X 28 REAR TIRES LOADED WITH RIM GUARD? in 1998:
MY 1948 8N WITH SAME ARMSTRONG 10 X 28 REAR TIRES LOADED WITH RIM GUARD? in 2005:
MY 1948 8N WITH 11.2 X 28 FIRESTONE FIELD & ROAD REAR TIRES LOADED WITH RIM GUARD? IN 2012:
RIM GUARD
We know what water does to ferrous metals. What Royse said about Ca Chl and corroding ferrous metals goes. The substance has to be in contact with the metal in order to oxidize. It will not harm the rubber/tube. The problem is once it starts leaking or once you get a thorn/nail/spike in the tire it will puncture the tube and the leaking will begin. Cheap valve stems often is where the leaking begins as well. The topic of alternative substances for ballast goes on forever. This is my opinion and my resolution to that issue. Windshield washer fluid has been one of the alternatives used and mentioned in the past. I'd be real cautious on where and what you buy. Nowadays, thanks to the green people and the EPA, all that stuff must be watered down. In the old days, the fluid was alcohol based so it wouldn't freeze. Nope, no more alcohol. Have you gone out to warm your car on a cold winter morning and tried to squirt the windshield? Often times you get nothing as the squirtholes (can I say that???) are plugged with ice. Another substance often used is anti-freeze. Don't look now but it is all watered down -read the labels. Many go to radiator shops where they often store the used anti-freeze in 55-gallon drums. Since it mixed from every customer they worked on, the used anti-freeze will contain water as well. My solution was to invest in the product called beet juice. Trademark name RIM GUARD ? and made by same in Wyoming, MI, it first appeared around 1998 and that is when I got rid of my Ca Chl in my original 8N Hat Rims and went with it instead. Beet juice was the nickname because the stuff is made from sugar beets-a plentiful Michigan crop. Well, guess what? The stuff is now in my 11.2 x 28 work Firestone Field & Road rear tires, originally was put in what I had then, ARMSTRONG 10 x 28's. The ARMSTRONGS were old, probably installed new in the 60's, and had started to dry rot out the walls. Boots were tried but did not work. In 2005 I had my local Firestone AG Tire dealer do all the grunt work -draining, installing new tubes and new the tires, and loading with Rim Guard, about 27 gallons per tire, and I have never looked back. I have never had a problem with Rim Guard,; never any leaks, nor other issues whatsoever. So, to the skeptics who say it too expensive are just making excuses to get by cheaply. I understand being on a tight budget, and often we must do what we can to make do, not what we know we should and can afford to do. You can use whatever you want, I'm just giving out my words of wisdom. With washer fluid, used ant-freeze, or Ca Chl -just watch closely for signs of leaking more often, especially if you have the hard to find decent hat rims. In my opinion, RIM GUARD is the best thing on the market and you can read all about in the LINK provided. Oh, and in case you are wondering, I am not a stockholder, just a very satisfied customer.
MY 1948 8N w/ARMSTRONG 10 X 28 REAR TIRES LOADED WITH RIM GUARD? in 1998:
MY 1948 8N WITH SAME ARMSTRONG 10 X 28 REAR TIRES LOADED WITH RIM GUARD? in 2005:
MY 1948 8N WITH 11.2 X 28 FIRESTONE FIELD & ROAD REAR TIRES LOADED WITH RIM GUARD? IN 2012:
John Deere D
John Deere D
Tim Ploughman Daley.....Thanks for the Info:
Bob...
Bob...
showcrop
Well-known Member
As I have often said, CaCl does not corrode rims procrastination does. It takes more than ignoring a leak in a tire to make the rim rust. You actually have to aggressively help the CaCl in order for your rim to get significant rust. The reason is that CaCl enhances the process of oxidation. BUUUUUUT, oxidation cannot take place without OXYGEN. That's right, without adding some O2 every few days, the oxidation comes to a stop. Which is why it is common place for dealers to install CaCl into tubeless tires which of course have no tube to protect the rim. Yes, I broke a loaded tubeless down few years ago, and after 15 years there was only a little discoloration and a slight etching into the steel. You find more rust around valve stems because after the tire has lost most of its pressure air can get in around the valve stem. So don't blame the rusted out rim on CaCL, put the blame on the PO who kept airing it up instead of repairing it, or the guy in the mirror.
Ultradog MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Twin Cities
CaryC,
As said, you buy it dry in bags and mix with
water yourself. Put a paddle mixer on a
drill and mix it in a trash can.
Lots of ways to get the stuff into your
tires. I think you said you have a loader on
your tractor. One way is to put the trash
can full of mixed ca cl in the loader,lift
it about 6' high and siphon it in. You have
to burp them once in a while. I use the
water pump from my tile saw. Takes a couple
of hours. Go do something else and burp them
once in a while.
Ca cl gets a worse rap than it deserves.
Some guys complain that they only got 75
years out of a set of rims because of it. Go
figure.
Hat rims are over rated. They are inferior
to looped rims for a couple of reasons. Read
Showcrop's good post.
As said, you buy it dry in bags and mix with
water yourself. Put a paddle mixer on a
drill and mix it in a trash can.
Lots of ways to get the stuff into your
tires. I think you said you have a loader on
your tractor. One way is to put the trash
can full of mixed ca cl in the loader,lift
it about 6' high and siphon it in. You have
to burp them once in a while. I use the
water pump from my tile saw. Takes a couple
of hours. Go do something else and burp them
once in a while.
Ca cl gets a worse rap than it deserves.
Some guys complain that they only got 75
years out of a set of rims because of it. Go
figure.
Hat rims are over rated. They are inferior
to looped rims for a couple of reasons. Read
Showcrop's good post.
Dave Sherburne NY
Well-known Member
Get yourself one of these from Gemplers. $15 but you don't have to "Burp" the tires, makes the job go a lot faster.
QUIK FILL LIQUID TIRE FILLER.
QUIK FILL LIQUID TIRE FILLER.
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