Calling all Ford Guys Gals

[unclemerle]

My 92 Ford F-150 in line 6 runs great when it's nice outside but when it is driven in wet snow or rain the motor cuts out. It hasn't left me on the side of the road yet but the way it was running tonight I was wondering. I've had the truck about four months, original owner passed away so don't have a history on it. It has 123000 miles on the clock.

Thanks in advance
Merle

 

[Steven f/AZ]

Electrical problem. With no history, I would start with spark plug wires and a cap and rotor. Distributor caps will misfire when wet when they get old/cracked.

Check out ford-trucks.com for a good F150 site...

 

[IaGary]

Yup cracked distributor cap.

Gary

 

[PDR60]

Great truck I have a 94 I6 with 345,000. Couple of things to check. First is Fuel pump wiring connections. They could be coroded and grounding out. The other is the altenator wiring harness. There is an aftermarket connector that you can get at any Parts house that you splice in. Most folks just use the barrell connector but I soldered mine in. Haven't had a single issue. Lastly is a load test on the battery. Sometimes they just have a bad cell that's hard to find untill a real load is placed on them. One thing you could do is run the engine in the dark and see if any connections are sparking or glowing. Kind of a simple test but if you have a high resistance connection it will be glowing.
Just my two cents....

Let us know what you find.

 

[sbin]

Distributor cap, wires, ignition and coil.
Had a similar problem when snow drifted next to my truck.The truck ran great until it warmed up and then started to stall and back fire.
Opening the hood revealed a snow drift melting on the distributor..cLeaning off and drying it with towel made the truck run like new.Even with a new cap with brass contacts, wire ans plugs moisture can cause problems.

 

[Amarillo Doug]

My '88 Ford Bronco with the 300 inline six was doing the same thing.Found the TFI module on the distributor was getting water in the connector.Cleaned the wiring connector and went ahead and replaced the module and had no more trouble.

 

[RobMD]

crankshaft position sensor.

 

[Anonymous-0]

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum28/

Here ya go, you'll get quick answers or find your problem real quick in a search. I'd say the cap at least. Probably something real simple. You can narrow it by either running your hand over everything (coil, cap, wires, etc) while it's running to narrow it down quick and add a little excitement to your life, or raise the hood in the dark when it is running and, if necessary, mist some water over the area with a spray bottle till you see the light show. There's also a plug on the wiring harness that plugs into the bottom of the distributor (about 6 inches from the dist. plug) that plugs into itself. Make sure that is plugged in and not getting moisture in (dried and cracked?). Don't know how this would effect with a weather change. You unplug it before adjusting timing (makes about a 10 degree difference) not sure what, if any, diff wet or dry would make.

Good Luck,


Dave

 

[Anonymous-0]

My F250 was doing the same thing. Checked all things mentioned here,,usual stuff still did it . What i ended up tracking down was the ecm connector. right beloew brake booster engine side of firewall. Pulled few wires , truck died, tore it open , found injector wires corroded to ground wire . very intermittant,,and only when wet !
Hope that helps
Bryan

 

[Dave 2N]

Start with the cap and see what happens.

 

[S.Crum]

Start with the very basics! All these newer vehicles have computer gizmos on them, and computer gizmos don't like marginal connections! Start with the plug connector on the ignition module, CLEAN it up. Then move on to the other engine sensors, cleaning each connector. I've had these problems with both Ford and GM. If this doesn't solve your problem, then think about what components need to be replaced, ie; distributor cap etc.
It gets pretty expensive changing parts till you get lucky and you usually solve the problem with a good connection when the new part is plugged in.
I recently bought an 87' GMC pick up in decent condition that was presumed 'dead'. The guy that had it became so disenchanted with it he was going to junk it out and he was going to call a local wrecking yard to come after it. I offered him $100 for it and I would have it removed. He took my offer and I had it rollbacked home. About an hours worth of work to pull the distributor cap and the module and clean the module connections and the 350 TBI engine runs like new. Heck it had $50 worth of gas in the tank! And a clear title. I'm painting it for #1 daughter to drive.

 

[Bill(Wis)]

I had a Ford six that did that. Distributor cap was getting wet from splash up. I fashioned a tar paper shield that worked fine. My intention was to use the tar paper shield as a model for a more permanent one. Well... I never got around to it. That old tar paper hung in there for years.

 

[Don L C]

YOUR GETING MOISTURE IN THE WIREING.....

1) New dis.roter & cap....
2) New plug wires....
3) New spark plugs, one heat range higher than normal

.....Don

 

[Tim B from MA]

I had a carburated Subaru that did that - was missing the warm air intake hose that drew air from around the exhaust manifold, and was freezing up the carb. It would practically die, pull to the side of the road and let is sit for 2 minutes till the ice melted, then off I would go.

I assume a 1992 is not carburated ???, but I suppose you might have similar issues with air intake in a fuel injected system.