Carb rebuild

[Stuart Hooley]

Y all got any suggestions on the best people to get a dltx 95 carb off a 620 rebuilt? Also is there anything to get them to do for a little more power? Or a better running machine?Thanks!

 

[Kansas4010]

I didn't have anyone local that wanted to
deal with it so I decided to try it myself.
I've never rebuilt a carburetor before so I
watched a few videos on YouTube and ordered
a kit from McDonalds carburetor. Not about
to say I did a professional job but the
tractor starts, runs, and doesn't leak
fuel everywhere. So I consider that to be
good enough. Maybe look into doing it
yourself.

 

[Stuart Hooley]

Thanks for the reply. I actually tried completely rebuilding it, bought a total rebuild kit from Steiner and slid it in there, tractor ran ok but I think the float was stuck. It wud die in a few seconds. That got fixed but the left idle screw had to be turned ALL the way in for it not to smoke at an idle, also don t think it was getting enough fuel under load no matter what the load screw was set at, think I want to send it off to someone and get it done right, steel balls removed and passages drilled out.Thanks!

 

[JIM MN]

More power and better running tractor?? For more power you can put in two nozzles R10121R from a JD730 tractor carburetor.. For better running, use fine wire or drill bits to clean out the idle and load circuits.. Doing these things will get what you want.. Plus finish up with adjusting your load and idle adjustments...

 

[NoDakInMN]

I've been working on my own carbs for my various Deeres for 25 years or so now, and while not an expert who does them on a daily basis, my experience has shown that more often than not, a carb kit isn't needed. Usually, it is a case of obstruction in the passages of the fuel flow. and usually caused by rust or fouling from gas left in the carb which evaporates and leaves behind varnish and other byproducts. Carb cleaner or soaking can remove some of the gunk left behind when gas evaporated, but condensation will cause rust in the passages and the only way to get that out is to use an appropriate sized aircraft drill bit. Aircraft drill bits are longer, usually 6" or so, and can reach all the way through the passages because some run most of the length of the carb.

Worn parts can be an issue too, and some may or may not be included in a carb kit. Adjusting needles must be perfectly conically tapered and not have wear on them, throttle and choke plates need to be wear free as well as does the shaft and bushings. Rule of thumb is that if something looks worn or is loose, it needs to be replaced and make sure all passages are open.

Robert Carburetor Repair offers some very good and reasonably priced DVDs on single and dual barrel carbs and are worth far more than what they charge. These carbs are sophisticated in their simplicity and when properly explained offer little confusion to people with basic mechanical skills.

Our tractors normally are not used on a daily basis, so one of the best ways to keep the carbs in good shape is run them free, or drain them, of fuel when shutting them down.

 

[Stuart Hooley]

Thanks for the replies! If I put 730 jets in, will it make enough horsepower to make up for the extra fuel it burns? I have two carburetors, one I rebuilt and the other was supposed to be professionally done that had sat for a while on my parts tractor before I bought it, the throttle shaft was frozen so I got that freed up and took it pretty much all apart. I often use a torch tip cleaner for the jets, I also sprayed cleaner through the passages. I set the float per the John deer carb manual, I still can t get it to idle right, under a load it s great but it doesn t like to run real great without a load, also have lp manifolds and a Denglers tractor cam, would cold weather with the lp manifolds make it idle bad? When I try to time it by ear usually I would have advanced It until it runs real smooth and then turned it back until it had a slight pop to it, now as soon as I start to advance it it starts loping and carrying on until I retard the timing, then it smoothed out some but still didn t idle as good as I like, Thanks for the help!

 

[Stuart Hooley]

Also if I rebuild or get rebuilt my distributor, should I do anything to the advance mechanism or anything else to make more hp? Thanks!