Carb settings with pertronix electric ignition

Camy13588

New User
Hey guys, to recap I have what you guys are telling me a 1948 8N that I paid 300 Canadian dollars for, brought it home a month ago and started disassembling and dissecting everything with her. Started off by ordering a 12volt alternator kit and a pertronix electric ignition kit. Got the pertonix kit put on so then next I attacked the carb, also ordered a marble sheffler carb rebuild kit from this site got everything changed over inside the carb and carb put back onto the unit. Next up was replacing the flywheel ring gear, cut the old one off and struggled getting the new one on but eventually gotter to drop on when I decided to use the right tool for the job lol. Next up was getting the thing running, changed spark plugs gapped to .025 and checked for spark which ended up being a very nice blue/purple spark. Now I was ready to turn the fuel on and try cranking on er. Cranked for a bit and nothing. Sprayed ether and also nothing. Got doing some research and found that I should have a steady stream of fuel coming out of the bowl on the carb, which I did NOT have, so took the carb back apart and decided to change the needle and seat back to the old ones that came in the carb from when I got the tractor. Got them changed over carb put back on, chocked the intake on the carb with my hand and didnt the SOB fire right up!

Now here’s my question lol sorry for the big build up but I’m very excited to share with you guys that I saved this ole girl from going to the scrap yard (which was where it was headed had i not bought it from the girlfriends dad) . My question is are the carb tuning settings the same for the electric ignition and points and condenser? Like I said I have the pertronix electric ignition so I’m not sure if the settings I was reading on another forum post would transfer over to my tractor as the other poster had points and condenser still. Another question I have too is that I’m wondering if it’s normal for gas to overflow in the bowl of the carb if I leave the fuel valve at the tank turned on? I’m thinking I may have a float problem but my father seems to think that could be normal as it’s a gravity fed carb.
 
Hey guys, to recap I have what you guys are telling me a 1948 8N that I paid 300 Canadian dollars for, brought it home a month ago and started disassembling and dissecting everything with her. Started off by ordering a 12volt alternator kit and a pertronix electric ignition kit. Got the pertonix kit put on so then next I attacked the carb, also ordered a marble sheffler carb rebuild kit from this site got everything changed over inside the carb and carb put back onto the unit. Next up was replacing the flywheel ring gear, cut the old one off and struggled getting the new one on but eventually gotter to drop on when I decided to use the right tool for the job lol. Next up was getting the thing running, changed spark plugs gapped to .025 and checked for spark which ended up being a very nice blue/purple spark. Now I was ready to turn the fuel on and try cranking on er. Cranked for a bit and nothing. Sprayed ether and also nothing. Got doing some research and found that I should have a steady stream of fuel coming out of the bowl on the carb, which I did NOT have, so took the carb back apart and decided to change the needle and seat back to the old ones that came in the carb from when I got the tractor. Got them changed over carb put back on, chocked the intake on the carb with my hand and didnt the SOB fire right up!

Now here’s my question lol sorry for the big build up but I’m very excited to share with you guys that I saved this ole girl from going to the scrap yard (which was where it was headed had i not bought it from the girlfriends dad) . My question is are the carb tuning settings the same for the electric ignition and points and condenser? Like I said I have the pertronix electric ignition so I’m not sure if the settings I was reading on another forum post would transfer over to my tractor as the other poster had points and condenser still. Another question I have too is that I’m wondering if it’s normal for gas to overflow in the bowl of the carb if I leave the fuel valve at the tank turned on? I’m thinking I may have a float problem but my father seems to think that could be normal as it’s a gravity fed carb.
No change in carb settings for either type ign. Note that # of turns is just for a starting point, as ultimately they end up where ever it runs best. Yes, you have needle/seat/float problem, as those parts when installed and functioning properly will stop flow when carb float bowl reaches proper level.
 
I have a Pertronix ignition on my 8N. Set the carb so it runs good; ignition system plays only a small part in carb adjustment. As long as there is a spark, from either system, it should run. Be advised that the idle screw works backwards - in is rich, out is lean. It doesn't control fuel flow, it increases or decreases air bleed. Out = more air, so leaner.

New, built elsewhere parts, may or may not work correctly; hit or miss in most cases. zuhnc
 

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