Carb Settings

mstrdvr

New User
Found an issue with the 460 (seems never ending), usually started faster than I could let go of the button. Today it was flooding out badly. Shut fuel off at tank, Pulled breather off and it was full of gas, turned on fuel, yup, float was stuck, ran straight thru. Getting a carb kit tomorrow, does anyone know the settings? All I can find is, bottom jet out 5 turns. Also, how hard can this be?
 
If you are ok with carb work it isn't bad , that said I
send most of mine out if they are keeper tractors and that
ain't cheap but much less headache . My gas 460 hasn't had
a professional job on the carb and it has been apart
several times over the years and I haven't wanted to spend
the money on a user that does what I need it to do and
can't stand to wait on a carb shop.
 
I agree. I have never done a carb before. My major reasoning is, I am too close to North Dakota to be without a loader tractor for the winter. Like I said, its never done this before. I may just end up biting the bullet and taking it in
 
Nothing wrong with the settings the float has just stuck open or dirt in the needle area the float level didnt change by itself. Just replace the needle and seat. Check for a bad float ect make sure the screen in the sediment assy is good look for dirt in the tank also.
 
"mstrdvr"; I had a mechanic do one for me that I soaked in a carb cleaning kit - gallon container with ~ ¾ full of fluid (purchased at Blain's Farm and Fleet) a couple years back on an International 460. Year ago I had a crud issue on a Farmall 340. That same mechanic told me 'you can do it'. I took several photos, used the same product, soaked it for four nights as I couldn't get some of the jets turned out after three nights of soaking and now I'm not a scared to tackle another. Glad I took photos. Then...


Adjusting the carburetor

McCormick Farmall and International 460 – 560

per the Preventative Maintenance Manual dated 6-20-58



"The engine and carburetor are correctly set when shipped from the factory...Start the engine and allow it to operate until thoroughly warm before making any adjustments.

... with the engine thoroughly warm, turn off. Close the [top needle] idle adjusting screw to its seat; then open one turn. The [bottom adj. screw] main fuel adjusting screw can be used to reduce the amount of fuel going into the engine when under light load conditions. However, when heavy work is to be performed in which the FULL POWER of the engine IS REQUIRED, the fuel adjusting screw should be set five turns off its seat. With the engine running at fast idle, turn in the throttle stop screw a few turns to prevent the engine from stopping when the throttle is closed. Start engine, close the throttle by pushing the engine speed control lever all the way up. [I like the way they worded that.] The throttle stop screw can be backed out until the desired idle speed (approximately 425 r.p.m.) is obtained. If the engine misses or rolls, the idle adjusting screw may be adjusted either in or out until the engine operates smoothly.

Hope this helps.
 
AL, got a kit from the local IH dealer, they were very happy to answer any questions I had. Actual rebuild was easy. Set bottom screw at 4 turns out, happy medium. Tried to adjust top screw and nothing happens. Any ideas as to why? Ports are all clean, used spray carb cleaner and air on everything.
 
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