Carburetor leak

Hello,
I have a 1947 Ford 2n. I recently bought a rebuilt carburetor, but whenever I try to start the tractor gas comes out the air intake manifold. I am very frustrated with this problem because I have tried everything. I have installed new gaskets, seat, needle, and float. I have tried bending the float a little so the gas is shut off sooner. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong with my carburetor?
Thanks,
Chad
 
Yep! your float level is still too high, the float valve was not reefed down tight enough when you rebuilt the carb, or your float is hung. Try rapping the carb body with a block of wood to un hang the float and see if that helps. if you didin"t reef the flat valve down, you "ll have to open the carb to do that. Wile you are at it, take the flaot needle and spin it around with light pressure in the valve seat.
You can make a handy dandy tool to check the fuel level in the carb using a threaded adapter with a barbed fitting that fits into the plug at the bottom of the carb. You slide a piece of vinyl tubing over the barbed fitting about a foot long and screw the adapter into the plug hole at the bottom of the carb. (You can also cut the vinyl tube about three inches longand insertt a 90 o elbow in the vinyl tube and put the rest of the tubing on the other leg of the elbow making an "L" shaped piece.)When you turn on the tank valve, it will show you the level of fuel in the bowl. The level should be just below the carb split line about 1/16".
 
Kind of a long shot, but check to be sure the bowl vent is open. Sometimes the bowl vent hole can be plugged with rust or dirt. I've had some carb kits that wee not made right and covered up the bowl vent hole. Adding a hole in the gasket cured the problem. Something else to check.
Paul
 
OK, well how much is coming out? when one of mine doesn't fire right up it always has raw gas dribbling out if I pull the intake pipe off. when you have it choked it sucks the gas hard just as it is supposed to and if it doesn't fire up that gas is going to dribble back. I don't think that the gas dribbling is your problem. Have you checked spark and battery strength?
 
I have had almost half of the needles with the rubber tips/plastic tips that have leaked. Most likely because they were not packed out properly when made. I save the solid brass and steel needles and pitch the rubber tipped ones when they start leaking.
 
well, I had a steel needle in there, but that one leaked, so I took it into potestio brothers and they said I needed a rubber tip.
 
yeah, I replaced the gasket and the seat. I don't think the leak is involved with the seat and needle because it only leaks when I try to start the tractor. it doesn't leak when is just sitting there.
 
I didn't mean to say all rubber tiped needles are no good but out of over 2 dozen I have had my share of bad ones. It is a good place to look if you are sure the float is not sticking or have a hole in it and it is properly set.
Then the needle is not seating good for some reason. Always a possibility that a new seat could be bad as well but if it is good you would be down to a bad tip or a speck or specks of dirt.
As to the specks of dirt, they can be from loosened crud when cleaning the inlet. I use a tap and then a bright light and a dental pick to make sure it is clean.
If you have specks still coming from the tank it is a no win situation without an inline filter.
 
Brand new ball game if it does not leak setting. That just sounds like a starting problem. Kinda normal if they do not fire up on the first coupla revaluations.
 
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