carburetor problems

[amsterdam]

i had to buy a new carburator for my ford 8 n tractor, it ran good for about 10 minutes, then i parked it, now the only way to keep it running is having the choke pulled out a little then it runs good for about 20 seconds, then cuts off and dies, i tried adjusting the fuel and air mixture, and even the idling screw, when i first put the carburetor on all i had to do was adjust the idle so when i pulled down on the throttle it ditnt choke and hesitate,,, now all it does is die even with the choke pulled out a little,,lack of fuel? to much fuel? sediment bowl dirty? plugged fuel line? i don’t know please help!!

 

[560Dennis]

What was wrong with the 8 n before you changed the carburetor? More details the better.

 

[DanielW]

First thing would be to pull the drain plug from the bottom of the carb and monitor fuel flow out of it for a good 30 seconds to 1 minute. Very common for the fuel tanks in old tractors to be partially plugged with gunk and causing exactly the symptoms you describe. You want a good steady, consistent stream of fuel. A light trickle is not good enough.

But I'll say the same thing that was mentioned in your earlier post: Aftermarket carbs for N's have terrible reputations. Some are ok. Some are filled with machining swarf. Some don't have all the porting drilled correctly (lots of threads on these forums about where and how to drill out). And all the aftermarket M/S carbs I've seen have the main adjustment needle machined on far too blunt of an angle that makes it pretty much impossible to tune well. If you still have the original carb, you'll have far better luck rebuilding it than replacing with an aftermarket one. The M/S carb's on the N's are about as simple as simple gets to rebuild. I don't think the carb is necessarily causing the problems you're describing. But it probably isn't helping.

 

[amsterdam]

What was wrong with the 8 n before you changed the carburetor? More details the better.

i think the needle valve was stuck it kept having gas come out the bottom of the carb

 

[amsterdam]

First thing would be to pull the drain plug from the bottom of the carb and monitor fuel flow out of it for a good 30 seconds to 1 minute. Very common for the fuel tanks in old tractors to be partially plugged with gunk and causing exactly the symptoms you describe. You want a good steady, consistent stream of fuel. A light trickle is not good enough.

But I'll say the same thing that was mentioned in your earlier post: Aftermarket carbs for N's have terrible reputations. Some are ok. Some are filled with machining swarf. Some don't have all the porting drilled correctly (lots of threads on these forums about where and how to drill out). And all the aftermarket M/S carbs I've seen have the main adjustment needle machined on far too blunt of an angle that makes it pretty much impossible to tune well. If you still have the original carb, you'll have far better luck rebuilding it than replacing with an aftermarket one. The M/S carb's on the N's are about as simple as simple gets to rebuild. I don't think the carb is necessarily causing the problems you're describing. But it probably isn't helping.

i put a new screen in the sediment bowl and turn the gas back on and it was running gas out. the bowl was full of gas all the time i had it running. does it sound to you if it’s not getting fuel?

 

[sandhillcarbs]

i put a new screen in the sediment bowl and turn the gas back on and it was running gas out. the bowl was full of gas all the time i had it running. does it sound to you if it’s not getting fuel?

Cast Iron Carbs Rust themselves closed. Fuel passages get plugged off with rust. i would strip the carb & Sandblast everything & Rebuild it. if you need help give me a call 218-902-0179 SAND HILL CARBS
www.sandhillcarbs.com

Dave

 

[amsterdam]

Cast Iron Carbs Rust themselves closed. Fuel passages get plugged off with rust. i would strip the carb & Sandblast everything & Rebuild it. if you need help give me a call 218-902-0179 SAND HILL CARBS
www.sandhillcarbs.com

Dave

 

[amsterdam]

i took the old carb off and put a new one on

 

[amsterdam]

how much would you charge me to put a kit in this old carburetor?

 

[DanielW]

To me, it sounds like it's starving for fuel. While there could be some oddball exceptions to this, the fact that it runs fine for 20 seconds implies it's probably not a spark/timing issue. And if it was a carb tuning issue, you should still be able to keep it running with whatever methods you're using to start and keep it running for those initial 20 seconds (fluttering the choke/keeping choke pulled out, etc.). It could perhaps be flooding itself out, but given how you need to keep the choke on to start and keep it running for those first 20seocnds, I'd think you would have found you could stop it flooding by putting the choke in.

Not guaranteed, but definitely sounds life fuel flow issue to me. Remember it's not as though it needs a complete blockage to stall out. A partial blockage will still stall out after running for a while as it uses the fuel in the bowl at a slightly faster rate than it can replenish. And it might then fill the bowl again before you check it. Best to pull the drain pug out of the carb and watch it flow for at least 30 seconds. Sometimes gunk floating around in the tank covers the inlet only after gas has started to flow for a bit and create the whirlpool effect in the tank.

 

[scootergmc]

If you are unfamiliar with the tractor and can't verify the entire fuel system from tank to carburetor is clean/unobstructed and vented (and stays that way after fuel is sloshing around in the tank), you're just shooting in the dark. Old fuel systems are not wizardry, most folks just don't want to take the time to troubleshoot the entire system because of course it can't be anything but a carburetor. Furthermore, carburetors themselves are not wizardry, and there are plenty of videos/tutorials to follow on youtube re: cleaning, setting float height, etc.

 

[sandhillcarbs]

i took the old carb off and put a new one on

A $35 Ebay Carburetor? I assure you that you probably got what you paid for... Nothing beats the original carburetor. the China reproduction carbs are junk

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I guess first question is does it have fuel down to the bowl a consistent stream? If yes continue

If no clean out whatever is plugging fuel line(I believe your ford is equipped with a screen? I’ve bought them for other things to rob the screen off possibly held on with small screws on the bottom of tank?)

Will it fire up with a whiff of ether? Might tell you if you have a manifold leak or a bad seal on the manifold where it attaches to carb. If it fires up without using choke it’s a fuel problem. Some of the cheap carbs on other things I’ve used idle screw will need to be turned out an extra turn or even 2 they are finer threads

Even found some Chinese carbs that are completely non-adjustable so I have the same opinion of them as others have stated above you get what you pay for. There’s a 14.99 carb on a super c that functions but it’s defiantly different and if I used it more she would be swapped out.

if you still need to choke when you try the ether it’s an air problem.

At least my later 4 cylinder ford it does take choke to start it’s choke to first pop then away she goes open it quick. So some choke is probably normal but not how you describe.

 

[Jim.ME]

how much would you charge me to put a kit in this old carburetor?

If you want to discuss things like cost and exchanging contact info it is best to use the Direct Message system the site has. Hover over or click on the member's avatar. At the lower center you should see a Send Direct Message button. Click on that and the message form will appear for you to fill out. enter your message and it goes to the member's mailbox. That system is private between you and the member and not available to be searched as the open forum is.

 

[sandhillcarbs]

All of my contact info is on my signature. Members are certainly welcome to call me directly. Im in my shop 7 days a week

 

[Jimmydog]

Fixing farmer mentioned manifold, I would second making SURE you do not have an intake manifold leak. Those things can mimic lots of other problems. Next time you get it running do the propane torch trick. If nothing else at least eliminate that as a possibility. Does it surge while running? that's a common sign of intake leaking. However my Massive Ferguson 165 would run fine for about a minute before it started surging then it would sputter and die. The two hardest to reach manifold bolts were loose.

 

[Powered By IH]

Fixing farmer mentioned manifold, I would second making SURE you do not have an intake manifold leak. Those things can mimic lots of other problems. Next time you get it running do the propane torch trick. If nothing else at least eliminate that as a possibility. Does it surge while running? that's a common sign of intake leaking. However my Massive Ferguson 165 would run fine for about a minute before it started surging then it would sputter and die. The two hardest to reach manifold bolts were loose.

If he doesn't have propane, ether or carb/brake clean works too.

 

[fusion1]

Why did you not rebuild the old one
have it rebuilt .