Case 1816B Chain Replacement

This message is a reply to an archived post by D Walsh on July 08, 2009 at 14:51:29.
The original subject was "Re: Case 1816B Chain Replacement".

Did he have to remove the engine?
 
Here's a link to the parts list http://partstore.caseih.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr62564ar1039838
Looks like there is a master link with 2 cotter pins but you can look for yourself
Best of luck Byron
 
You have covers on both sides :( the only cover I have is the one on the floor by the battery. There I can see the chain for the front and if I put my arm in I can feel where the back chain goes.I got the old chain out because one of the links broke.I see no way to put the new one on unless I remove the engine.That is not what I want to do. I even call the case dealer and they want one or my legs to put a new one one lol $2000
 
(quoted from post at 14:32:04 08/17/16) You have covers on both sides :( the only cover I have is the one on the floor by the battery. There I can see the chain for the front and if I put my arm in I can feel where the back chain goes.I got the old chain out because one of the links broke.I see no way to put the new one on unless I remove the engine.That is not what I want to do. I even call the case dealer and they want one or my legs to put a new one one lol $2000


Cut access panels? pull the engine or pay the 2000 but I know what I would do.
Best of luck with it Byron
 
IIRC I tied a piece of wire to the end of the chain to get it pulled around using the tire to help turn it. I've had the drive motors out to be resealed so I've had to do something to get the chains back on. I never took an access panel off other than where you put your feet. Make sure to block the bucket up on top of the cage makes access to the chains a lot easier.
 
The fact it says chain cover leads me to believe it was to allow access to the chains. If you have them for goodness sakes take them off looks like 2 bolts on each side. Thought you didn't have chain covers. Anyway Now you have a fellow who has done this before you should be ok.
Stay safe best of luck Byron
 
Yea there on the floor I figure the put em there for a reason sounds like this is a good time to find out.
Good luck with it Byron
 
Boy I don't remember taking anything off other than what is on the inside of the frame. If there are any other covers than the battery on the inside taking them off would sure help. I know I didn't take anything off on the outside, I left the wheels/tires on. I'll go look at mine and see if anything jogs my memory. I know I broke a rear once and put a new chain in without a lot of effort, seems like I said I wrapped it around the sprocket and turned the tire. Getting the screen off the cage will really help too if you haven't already done that. Being a contortionist would really help when working on skid loaders.
 
I'm back from looking. I've got to be honest, it looks to me if you get the bucket raised above the cage and block it safely. It can be done, BTDT several times. Take the cage side panels off and get the seat off you've got room to get your hands into the rear sprocket, The left side will be a little more difficult than the right due to the main hydraulic pump is right in front of the engine on top. Unbolt it and lay it off to the side if it's in your way. no need to disconnect the hoses.
 
Bhunt has your three options laid out for you...

"Cut access panels" are the "cheater holes" I mentioned in your post. I call em cheater holes because they let you cheat out of all the work to pull the machine apart.

See those older skids are nice to use, except for the type of problem you ran into(you can't access the rear chain/axel area, or removing drive motors). Many farmers discovered cutting a hole(oh 5x5, offset towards back off of drive motor) into the side makes the task easier, Case later got smart(likely from feedback) and started adding factory holes in those spots to make repair easier.

a235070.jpg

in this picture you can just see the plate covering a farmer added cheater hole between the wheels. (wheel on left of pic is rear, right(sitting on machine))
Your post
 
Thanks a million you guys. I got it done :) and going to make a cheater hole the next time :)
What I done was what guy told me I took out the control panel and there I saw the plates to pull out to see the rear chain. took a few hours with help to get it all finish. The next time one breaks I going to replace all of them but can I use a heavy duty chain like 60H
 
Boy what a job that was not to bad but tight. Once I took out the control panel there was a cover for the rear chains :) it was still tight. Thanks for all the help. The next time this will be much easier now. Well now I can get the horse stalls clean :)
 
I'm glad you got thru it OK. Yeah they aren't the easiest thing to work on but you can move enough stuff out of the way to do a good job. Pulling the engine wasn't going to help, it sits over the gas tank. If you ever need any help hopefully I see your post and I'll give you as much help as I can. I've had my 1816B for about 25 yrs and have had about everything apart there is to tear apart. The biggest job is getting the drive motors out I had to replace all the seals and O-rings in both due to leaks,
 
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