Case 1840 Skidsteer

[WiJay]

Having an issue 1840 won't start. About 2 months ago I was going to put out a few round bales for the beefers, started it up no problem, let warm up 15 minutes, got in moved about 30 ft. and it lost power couldn't get it restarted.
I left it until it warmed up, plugged the block heater in and tried starting it this past weekend and I could not get it to fire up.
I primed the fuel lines to the injectors and fuel is coming out fine.
Any ideas? What should I look at/for?
BTW: the motor was completely rebuilt about 50 hrs. ago.
Thanks, Jay

 

[AJ.]

Loosen each injector line at the injectors a couple of turns and turn the engine over on the key keeping an eye (protected) on the line unions to see if it's spurting fuel out,if its spurt fuel out the engine should start,see the air intake is not blocked,if you have to come back post the type injector pump it's got,they used three different on that model.
AJ

 

[WiJay]

AJ, I loosened the injector lines turned the engine over. Fuel was spurting out.
Checked the air clearer & filter ( This is what you referred to as the air intake?)
The engine from what I can tell is a 4T 390.

 

[AJ.]

Yes it was the air intake/filter,I am now taking it the fuel system is good,filter/s clean and fuel in the tank,reading you first post again you say it lost power and stopped and will not start,you primed the fuel system and it is spurting out fuel at the injectors,tighten up the lines again and crank it over watching the exhaust,you should be getting smoke if it's injecting fuel into the cylinders,if there is no smoke it's getting no fuel,if it is putting out smoke then should start,you have to find out why it stopped,you sure the filter/s are clean,check the wire going to the stop solenoid on the pump,that should be hot when the key is on on the machines with the rotary pumps,if it's got an in line pump the solenoid is powered different that is why I asked what pump you got,the inline pump has the injector lines in a row along the top,rotary the lines are in a circle, see what pump you got and come back.
AJ

 

[WiJay]

AJ, I attached a pic of the pump, and a pic from the owners manual.
Thanks Jay

 

[AJ.]

That's a Bosch rotary pump,those pumps are fairly easy to bleed compared with the other rotary it could have,a CAV,but we can forget about them now,what prompted you to bleed the system in the first place,did you run out of diesel?,is there water in the fuel,are the filters plugged,the two things you can check now is if there is power in the black wire attached to the stop solenoid when the key is on,the bolt with half the paint missing is the return line from the pump,that bolt has a valve inside and it also acts as a self bleed for the pump,loosen that bolt a couple of turns and operate the priming lever till clear fuel comes comes out,tighten it up and try to start,you need the battery in good shape,use any cold start device it has and see what comes from the exhaust while it's cranking over.
AJ

 

[Dieseltech]

Make sure the stop solenoid is working. On some Case-Cummins Bosch VE pumps fuel WILL be at each injector with the line nuts loose EVEN with the solenoid OFF. That's because of the way the plunger is machined in the head assembly. It will bleed, BUT won't open the injectors UNLESS the solenoid is working. Local shop put a Cummins 5.9 in an Oliver tractor and found the solenoid had no voltage due to a bad switch, but with the lines loose had plenty of fuel at the injectors. CAV DPA pumps work different, solenoid MUST be on to bleed that pump.

 

[WiJay]

What is the correct way to test the stop solenoid to verify it is working correctly? I can check power to the solenoid how do I know if it is working correctly.
Thanks Jay

 

[AJ.]

Put your finger tips on the solenoid and power it on and off you will feel the plunger jump inside if it's working.
AJ

 

[WiJay]

AJ Thanks for the info.
I ran over to the farm today, tested the power to the solenoid that was fine. Now to remove the switch and inspect it.
Quick Question; Is there a special tool or trick to get it out, awful tight area, or is this one of those custom shop bent tool situations?
Thanks again

 

[AJ.]

Any few times I changed one of those switches I just used an M24 open wrench but I probably got ten of every size,long ones,short ones bent one,stuff collect over the years,when taking it out be careful not to lose the plunger and spring inside,they will fall out,the plunger is spring loaded to stay in the stop position and is pulled back when in run.
AJ

 

[WiJay]

AJ, Thanks for the help I really appreciate it. I ordered a new solenoid and swapped it out and it fired right up
I had to modify a 24mm wrench, there is almost no room to fit a wrench in there,
I learned a few new swear words..lol
If your ever up to this neck of the woods, I owe you a couple beers or cups of coffee at least.
Thanks again.
Jay

This is a pic of my custom wrench, bent and some grinding not pretty but did the job.

 

[AJ.]

Glad you got it sorted,those things are a nightmare to work on should you have had to go deeper,all's well that ends well.
AJ