case 1955 VA

[Pnettis]

I have a 1955 case va tractor that has a gear oil coming out from the timing Mark tab on the side of the bell housing and where the starter is bolted i the bell housing

Lastly it also looks like it maybe coming out.if the inspection plate on the bottoming of the bell housing

Is this a normal leak or ????

Just got it running and everything else is working fine

Thanxs

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Most 1955 models in the VA series tractors will have a gear drive hydraulic pump mounted on the front right side of the engine (pic 1)in which case the oil leak into the bell housing if not engine rear main seal leak will be torque tube sump hydraulic oil leaking through the drive shaft seal p/n VT2115 CAS OIL SEAL - clutch shaft Superseded by part number: A30302 (pic 2)at the front of the torque tube. To replace the shaft seal you will have to split the tractor at the bell housing/engine junction.

The link has a parts manual that will cover most of the 1955 VA series tractor models. Torque tube parts are listed under POWER TRAIN at the link below.

Joe

https://avspare.com/catalog/case/66944/

 

[VACLee]

Do you know the serial # of your tractor? According to build numbers the VA was discontinued after 1953. As Joe mentioned if it
has the engine mounted hydraulic pump there should not be gear oil in a location to leak out at that point. If it has the
hydraulic pump on the belt pully then the torque tube would have gear oil in it. Being a VA it may not have a hydraulic pump at
all. Lee

 

[Pnettis]

Thanks for the info..I do have the hyd. Pump by the front of the engine..it looks like the oil is 90 weight leaking out..not engine oil

The hyd. Option has not been used in many many years..

The s/n starts with 600????. My understanding is the VA model was discontinued in 1955, I think this might be a left over tractor and sold in 1956...???

Can I assume the oil on the clutch is not good and the leak will likely distroy the disk and possibly the starter?

If it is from the pump, can it be stopped and if so how?

If the tork tube, is the oil seal available?

I already changed all the oils and cleaned out the oil pan..the tractor been sitting for some time.

Runs good after a valve job.

Lastly, the brake shoes need to be replaced..no breaks at all. Having hard time finding shoes and springs..any ideas??

Thanks again...Philip

 

[VACLee]

A 600xxxx serial # would be a late 53 year model. The numbering system changed mid year in 1953. The VA series was made through
1955. Only certain models within the series were made the last couple years. A VA model has the solid front axle and short rear
axles and would have 28 rear wheels. It was the base model of the series. You ae correct that oil in that area is not good
regardless of where it is coming from. The clutch input shaft seal is readily available (SKF 11776) but will require the
tractor to be split to replace. So will the rear main seal. The pump has nothing to do with the leak, just would determine what
oil should be in the torque tube. If there is gear oil in the torque tube and you have the engine mounted pump it needs to be
changed. The hydraulics will be very sluggish in warm weather and probably will not work at all in cold temperatures. Linings
are available for the rear shoes and the springs can be matched to modern ones that will work. They are referred to as band
brakes in the parts book. Probably have seals leaking in that area also. If you need to replace them there are some special
precautions that need to be taken to prevent damage to the new seal. They are fun tractors to have. Good luck. If you have any
questions I will be more that glad to try to help. Lee

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Oil leak into the bell housing will eventually ruin the the clutch friction disc as it slips, gets hot, glazes and losses all traction.

You wrote you changed all oil, did you put gear oil in the torque tube? If you even suspect that there is gear oil in the torque tube drain it out and fill the torque tube with a low viscosity hydraulic oil. Capacity is about 2 gals. The front mounted hydraulic pump runs all the time the engine is running and has to be circulating oil or it will get hot and ruin the pump. If you have a Eagle hitch it will be circulating though the control valve and back to the torque tube sump via the return filter element. the hyd oil return filter element is edge wound cleanable type, circulating high viscosity oil like gear oil can build up enough back pressure to blow a hole in the element.

The 1st 2 digits minus 4 does not apply after mid 1953 when the serial numbering system was changed to start with 60 regardless of the year built. If your sn starting with 60 is lower than 6011001 it is a late model year 1953. 1954 model year starts with sn 6011001, 1955 model year starts with sn 6038001.

The chances are you have a model VAC not a model VA in the VA tractor series as VAC was by far the highest production tractor in that series. A side and front view pics posted and someone will advise which VA you have.

Joe

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Here are some pics of models in the VA series.

Joe

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Sorry Lee, didn't see you post. I was posting in the classic forum and the text in you post still hasn't shown up over there. Must be some gremlins in that forum tonight.

Joe

 

[VACLee]

No worries. Agree on the gremlins. I actually posted it on classic but somehow it went to modern and never dropped down. Anyway, I
hope he will post a picture of his tractor so we can positively identify it.

 

[Pnettis]

(quoted from post at 21:02:14 05/07/21) A 600xxxx serial # would be a late 53 year model. The numbering system changed mid year in 1953. The VA series was made through
1955. Only certain models within the series were made the last couple years. A VA model has the solid front axle and short rear
axles and would have 28 rear wheels. It was the base model of the series. You ae correct that oil in that area is not good
regardless of where it is coming from. The clutch input shaft seal is readily available (SKF 11776) but will require the
tractor to be split to replace. So will the rear main seal. The pump has nothing to do with the leak, just would determine what
oil should be in the torque tube. If there is gear oil in the torque tube and you have the engine mounted pump it needs to be
changed. The hydraulics will be very sluggish in warm weather and probably will not work at all in cold temperatures. Linings
are available for the rear shoes and the springs can be matched to modern ones that will work. They are referred to as band
brakes in the parts book. Probably have seals leaking in that area also. If you need to replace them there are some special
precautions that need to be taken to prevent damage to the new seal. They are fun tractors to have. Good luck. If you have any
questions I will be more that glad to try to help. Lee

########################################

Thanxs..the s/n for the tractor i have is VA1 60387230, and yes I did put in gear oil in the tork tube..I believe the manual said to do that..2gallons.
I attached a few pics of the one I have..my oldest son is helping me with it
You mentioned to use hydr. Oil, do you think that will help with the leaking in the bell housing??

Have one of the breaks off, rear left..all rusty and the springs were all broken. Not sure where they hook into the shoe.everything is very rusty and not moving at all. Soaking everything in PB blaster..
Not looking good..it has o e big shoe with two liners

I will Most likely need parts. Along with the rear axle seals for both sides

Would you have the air tube and oil bath for the carb?? Missing that as well..fun to d this but parts are getting hard to find.

The tires are 11.25 x 27??

 

[Pnettis]

Let see if this works

 

[Pnettis]

Pic

 

[Joe (Wa)]

VAI is the industrial model in the VA series, usually referred to as a utility tractor. Your posted sn 60387230 has 8 digits, your tractor sn has only 7 digits. You need to post the correct sn to get an accurate year built.

To practice pics go to the test forum link below and attempt to post your pics. A common mistake is trying to post several pics before the 1st pic has completed uploading. Another mistake is hitting the review button before one or more pics has not completed uploading. Above the 1st pic you try to post is a timeout that will indicate when the pic is completely uploaded and you can then continue to post another pic and check the same timeout for that pic, etc, etc.

When you are in review, if the pic is not there then it will not be in your post on the Case forum.

Joe
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/dbtest/wwwboard1.html

 

[Pnettis]

(quoted from post at 20:54:33 05/09/21) VAI is the industrial model in the VA series, usually referred to as a utility tractor. Your posted sn 60387230 has 8 digits, your tractor sn has only 7 digits. You need to post the correct sn to get an accurate year built.

To practice pics go to the test forum link below and attempt to post your pics. A common mistake is trying to post several pics before the 1st pic has completed uploading. Another mistake is hitting the review button before one or more pics has not completed uploading. Above the 1st pic you try to post is a timeout that will indicate when the pic is completely uploaded and you can then continue to post another pic and check the same timeout for that pic, etc, etc.

When you are in review, if the pic is not there then it will not be in your post on the Case forum.

Joe


Thanks again Joe
The s/n is correct minus the zero at the end...my typo..also looked at the VA1 prefix...it does look like a one but an "I" makes sense

Do you think replacing the gear oil with hydro oil will help with the leak..We have no plans to use the hydro pump for any attachments
and since we had this unit there were not any used with it

With both brakes are not working and the guts in those drums are all rusty, do you have a pic of what it looks like with all the springs attached in the drum?? We are still looking for the replacement parts

Good news , we just got the gauge cluster in today..

Pnettis

 

[Pnettis]

 

[VACLee]

Send me an email concerning the parts you are needing. Lee

 

[Pnettis]

(quoted from post at 18:38:03 05/10/21)

 

[VACLee]

Have you got a picture straight on of the front? Curious as to which front axle you have. There are at least 4 different ones. Yours should have the peak at the pivot instead of being a straight bar like the earlier ones.

 

[Pnettis]

(quoted from post at 19:03:35 05/10/21) Have you got a picture straight on of the front? Curious as to which front axle you have. There are at least 4 different ones. Yours should have the peak at the pivot instead of being a straight bar like the earlier ones.

This is the one I have

 

[VACLee]

That's what I wanted to see. I don't have that one, but I do have the other 3. Had not seen that one but it is in the parts book.

 

[Pnettis]

Thanks Lee
Just need the springs for both rear drums and the brake shoes for both wheels.

The shoe i took off is really just a big metal ring with two linings
Adjacent to each other (opposite side to one another).

The internal levers, one side for working the other doesnt work at all and been soaking it in PB blaster since sunday..moves about 1/8 of an inch..all rusty inside that one

I would like to resurface the drums but not sure if there is enough material o them..both are real rusty..looking for the top to.get that big but off...

Pn

 

[Joe (Wa)]

I am not very familiar with VAI although I drove a 1946-47 nearly twice daily back in the days we had to haul milk cans to & from the loading dock daily. I crank started that 6v critter from about Nov to Apr, kicked like a mule even with the ignition retarded some.

Hydraulic oil is lower viscosity (most ballpark 10 wt) than 90 wt gear oil so one could expect a higher leak rate into the bell housing.

Your tractor has a remote cylinder control valve, that is how your hyd pump will be circulating oil if the valve is in neutral. I can't see from your pic if single or double acting (one valve stem or two at the top) I am only familiar with the DA in which the valve spools are spring loaded to return to neutral. The control valve dumps to the torque tube sump via the hyd return filter element. If it is cold enough, 90 wt will likely blow a hole in the element dumping some debris in the sump which the pump could pick and past to and plug the control valve putting your pump at risk.

You could remove the filter element or better yet remove the pump, fab a light plate for the opening. There is only crankcase pressure there and just splash oil to contain. You should be able to find a cover or just leave the remote control valve in place. Personally I would bite the bullet and repair the shaft seal leak, clutch friction disc may quit on you just when you need the tractor.

This is all I have on the brakes. Some of the p/n's shown are likely bsolete, if you need a later p/n for an item post it. If pics are too blurry to read I will find the on-line VAI parts manual & post a link.

Joe

 

[Pnettis]

(quoted from post at 21:23:15 05/11/21) I am not very familiar with VAI although I drove a 1946-47 nearly twice daily back in the days we had to haul milk cans to & from the loading dock daily. I crank started that 6v critter from about Nov to Apr, kicked like a mule even with the ignition retarded some.

Hydraulic oil is lower viscosity (most ballpark 10 wt) than 90 wt gear oil so one could expect a higher leak rate into the bell housing.

Your tractor has a remote cylinder control valve, that is how your hyd pump will be circulating oil if the valve is in neutral. I can't see from your pic if single or double acting (one valve stem or two at the top) I am only familiar with the DA in which the valve spools are spring loaded to return to neutral. The control valve dumps to the torque tube sump via the hyd return filter element. If it is cold enough, 90 wt will likely blow a hole in the element dumping some debris in the sump which the pump could pick and past to and plug the control valve putting your pump at risk.

You could remove the filter element or better yet remove the pump, fab a light plate for the opening. There is only crankcase pressure there and just splash oil to contain. You should be able to find a cover or just leave the remote control valve in place. Personally I would bite the bullet and repair the shaft seal leak, clutch friction disc may quit on you just when you need the tractor.

This is all I have on the brakes. Some of the p/n's shown are likely bsolete, if you need a later p/n for an item post it. If pics are too blurry to read I will find the on-line VAI parts manual & post a link.

Joe




Thanks

Working on a few things...I will get back to you on the parts
The other side is still on the tractor _brakes

Found out the system isn't charging as well😯

Looking for a voltage regulator ,,,may change it over to alternator

Do you know if this is an easy thing to do?

Thank you for all your help

\pn

 

[Pnettis]

Finally got thru with looking at the brakes..need alot of parts

> two drums - VTA-2805 x 2

> two brake bands (one for each side) VTA-3090 & VTA-3091
(might be able to use linings only -VTA-2819)

> all the inner springs (3 per side) - VT-5092 x 4, VT-5093 x 2

> Two oil seals behind the brake drums. ???????
(oil leaking bad)

> two springs on the outside of the brake (brake Returns)
cover holding tension on the foot levers - VT-2155 x 2

That is a big list if I want brakes..all the internals are oiled up/broken/rusty..

Looking for a tool to take off the drums nut VT-5095

Do you think any of these parts are still available ?

thanxs
<pn

 

[Pnettis]

Also, might be able to turn/mill the brake drums but until I get them off I would not know for sure..they look like the originals.

Most likely will not clean up

Lastly still need to get the tork tube seal inside by the bell housing
and clutch assembly.



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