Case 211B Rod Knock

[DB1991]

Hi again,

I have finally found the source of the engine noise.

Check old posts here for background info:

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.co...t=15&sid=22b57227ac20b5f0f2db0a5e4f93e01b

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=8727895#8727895

I was able to pull the 4 bolts that hold the front axle support and lower the front axle enough to clear the pan. I went through and tried to move all the areas where the connecting rod attaches to the crank.

Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiDmGUUSaK4

You can clearly hear some play in #3, and a ton of play in #4.

I pulled the cap off of #4 and this is what I found.

#4 Crank Journal:

#4 Connecting Rod Cap:

#4 Rod Bearing:

Any advice on next steps? Should I just try to polish the journal with the crank installed, measure it with a micrometer, and buy a new rod bearing accordingly?

Is it beyond saving as-is? Does the crank need to be pulled and reground?

Any help is appreciated!

 

[pinball]

If it were mine I would polish up the journal and make sure it is smooth where you can not feel any marks on it and replace all bearings. do you have an oil pressure guage to have a reference from. new bearings should increase you oil pressure. I would never just replace one bearing. they all need to be inspected and replaced and properly torqued. just my thought. I would also use straight 30 weight oil. never was a fan of using lighter weight oil.

 

[mEl]

(quoted from post at 19:36:49 06/09/18) Hi again,

I have finally found the source of the engine noise.

Check old posts here for background info:

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.co...t=15&sid=22b57227ac20b5f0f2db0a5e4f93e01b

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=8727895#8727895

I was able to pull the 4 bolts that hold the front axle support and lower the front axle enough to clear the pan. I went through and tried to move all the areas where the connecting rod attaches to the crank.

Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiDmGUUSaK4

You can clearly hear some play in #3, and a ton of play in #4.

I pulled the cap off of #4 and this is what I found.

#4 Crank Journal:

#4 Connecting Rod Cap:

#4 Rod Bearing:

Any advice on next steps? Should I just try to polish the journal with the crank installed, measure it with a micrometer, and buy a new rod bearing accordingly?

Is it beyond saving as-is? Does the crank need to be pulled and reground?

Any help is appreciated!

That journal needs repaired, the shaft must be miked to see how much material is worn off, removed, then ground by a crank grinder, the rod needs replaced or the big end resized. the other journals may be worn also and a good crank man will know how far to turn it to renew the polished surface. I would guess by looking that at least .020 will have to be removed. The bearing shells have turned in the rod causing the grooving and wear seen on the rod cap, if that rods is not repaired or replaced the bearing will not be able to crush as the hole diameter will not be tight enough. I would not be at all surprised that the rod big end hole is pounded out of round from running pounding like it was. Any other type of a cobble job will get you just that result, a time bomb.

 

[nick831]

I would pull it down, weld and turn the crank, resize the rods
and new bearings. While your at it replace the rings as the
pistons are coming out. Anything else as the man above has said
is a bomb. If you like the tractor it is a cheap fix compared to
something new or used that you know nothing about. Just my two
cents. Good luck.

 

[DB1991]

I think I am just going to do it the right way and pull the engine and send it to a buddy of mine to be re-done. I don't really want to spend a ton of money on this thing, but it is better to just do it the right way and not have to worry about it.

The saga continues!

 

[kevinthefixer]

(quoted from post at 20:26:07 06/09/18) I think I am just going to do it the right way and pull the engine and send it to a buddy of mine to be re-done. I don't really want to spend a ton of money on this thing, but it is better to just do it the right way and not have to worry about it.

The saga continues!

Good idea. This is about as deep inside as it gets, if you're going to go cheap somewhere, do it where you can get to it easily if it fails. While you're in there, make sure the clutch is perfect, check the head out thoroughly, all that. No it won't be cheap. But it'll be cheaper than doing it twice.