Case 300 Clutch

[Jeffrey Scott]

I saw a forum a couple of months ago about repairing the clutch on a Case 300 tractor.I have the same Case 300 tractor and need to replace the clutch as well. I see 2 part numbers for the clutch---G11077 which was mentioned in the forum and G11079. Seems like both part numbers reference Case 300 clutch. Which one do I need? I agree the bearing should be replaced at the same time---but is it really necessary to replace the pressure plate and buy the kit that includes the disc, bearing and pressure plate. I was just going to repace the clutch disc.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

G11077 is the standard single clutch plate for 300 & 300B spark ignition engines.

G11078 is the heavy duty single clutch plate for spark ignition engines listed in 1956 & 1957 300 parts manual A324.

G11079 is the heavy duty single clutch plate for spark ignition engines listed in 1958 & 1959 300B parts manual A377.

Pressure plate seldom needs replacement unless mechanically damaged. Check the release bearing, turns smooth, no noise, and notch not worn off most likely ok for reuse. The correct bearing is about $100 via Case.

Joe

 

[Stephen Newell]

I have a split 210b that I'm currently working on. I can tell you its a big job and I don't want to reuse any more parts in there than I have to. More than likely your throw out bearing is the same as mine. I've been told by two different people the bearing is an assembly and can be taken apart and replace the bearing with a stock bearing. As far as the pressure plate, mine has a great deal of wear on it from slipping for the last couple of years. It will have to be replaced for sure. I also have always been told the springs get week over time and the pressure plates should automatically be replaced anyway. If you do decide just to replace the clutch plate, there are shops around that will re-line your plate. Another nice tip I got from BarryfromIA is the ring gear on my flywheel had a lot of wear on it and he said it could be taken off and turned around to use the fresh metal. I plan to have a machine shop do that when I have them re-surface the flywheel.

 

[Jeffrey Scott]

Thanks Joe. I might as well replace with the heavy duty clutch plate if I am going to all trouble of splitting the tractor.

 

[hawthicket]

Thanks Stephen. It does seem to make sense to spend the extra $100 or so dollars while the tractor is split and replace the pressure plate---especially if the springs are getting weak. I think this is the original plate---which means is is about 60 years old

 

[Joe (Wa)]

I have read on this site that it is possible to replace the bearing in the release bearing assembly on the 300"s. I don't see how that is possible, has anyone actually done so?

I don't believe the weak lever spring theory or that the pressure plate should be replaced automatically either.

Just my opinion.

Joe

 

[oldmisterbill]

On the 300 series industrials there was a double disk clutch which required a different flywheel - I don"t think they were used on any agriculture models. I have one on my 310 w/loader & 3pt hitch. The tractor was ordered new for an orchard in Harvard Massachusetts,it resides with me in Oklahoma Now,

Back on track-from the looks of the oil wiped up in your bell housing a rear main seal& possibly a speedy sleeve might be good along with input shaft seals.

 

[Stephen Newell]

Hi Joe, It doesn't look possible to me. I'm ill-equiped to make the attempt myself. If it can be done it would take a press to seperate the carrier. Mine was on the 210b. I was just guessing it was the same bearing as the 300. The number on the carrier is Aetna Ball & Roller Bearing Co A-899-2. I plan to take my bearing to a machine shop soon when I take the flywheel to be surfaced. I will let you know what happens. To be honest with you it seems scarry. There is nothing wrong with my release bearing except being old. I don't really know either about the pressure plate. My nephew is a auto mechanic and he has always told me it was a package deal in a clutch overhaul to replace clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I'm just leaning on his experience. I've only split one other tractor and replaced a clutch on a car and a jeep.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

The double plate clutch not only requires a resecessed flywheel but also a narrower release bearing with a roll pin catch instead of the notch like the single plate clutch. The hydraulic pump drive shaft is also shorter to makeup for the added clutch plate & cdenter spacer plate. I think the main drive shaft remains the same, not sure. I"ve only done one of them, haven"t run into one on the ag tractors. Pic is a double plate clutch.

Joe

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Aetna Ball and Roller Bearing Co A-899-2 Made in USA is correct for 300. That is the original single plate clutch release bearing for 300-300B Case p/n A49009. I am not sure about 210B, may be the same. The p/n was changed to G10610 later, same bearing. The new ones I have been buying from Case only has “Made in USA“, I don't know who makes them.

I took the same type, only smaller, Aetna release bearing apart to try an change just the bearing part. It had a seal for the lubricant and would never have gone back together tight enough to seal. Your mechanic may be able to do it, not me though. Click on the link below for some more info.

It is common practice for auto repair shops to change everything because they don't want any comebacks. Customers generally know nothing except it doesn't work or doesn't seem right or something else. Change everything while you're in there, be safe. It is a good business practice and the customer pays.

If you've done a car, the tractor will be easier since everything is open, easy to see and work on. The hardest thing to get apart is generally the steering u-joint right there at the bolster. I don't know any magic for that, just grunting and some bad words.

During reassembly be sure the small end of the spring behind the release bearing on the hyd pump shaft is toward the rear of the tractor and the notch on the bearing is toward the pressure plate. When you get within 1/2" or so of mating the bell housing back up to the engine block, the hyd pump splines will likely hang up on the pressure plate hub splines, turn the engine until splines mate up in the pressure plate and it will slide right together easy. Do no use the fasteners to pull together or it will warp the pressure plate hub and then won't declutch when you start it up. Those things seem to be the problems guys on this forum post asking for advice.

Good luck.

Joe
release bearing

 

[Stephen Newell]

If the complete bearing is available, I probably won't attempt to have mine rebuilt. I was only going to do that because I hit a brick wall trying to find one. I never thought about Case. I quit going there because every time I asked about something for JI Case they acted like I said John Deere.
I didn't really have too much trouble with the steering linkage. I thought the easiest place to take it loose was at the front axle. I bought a drift punch and knocked the pin out. Then used a pry bar to push it off.
When I originally split the tractor there was a huge amount of dirt and grease in there. After cleaning it up I discovered there was only a very minor leak around the engine rear seal. There was no leak at the tachometer drive housing. It didn't add up for the amount of oil it there. Yesterday I found the culprit. The oil is coming from between the driveline shaft and the hydraulic pump drive shaft. I don't know what's involved in replacing that seal or even where its at.

 

[Stephen Newell]

Hi Jeffery. I apologize for hijacking your thread with my problems. If I were you I would purchase a parts manual before starting your tractor. I jumped into mine with both feet, have the tractor taken apart and now the project is stalled because I didn't order a manual until two days ago. Over the course of working on the tractor I found a lot of other things that need to be fixed and I'm sure you've found its real hard to track down the parts without the part no.

 

[Jeffrey Scott]

No problem. Good luck with your project

 

[Joe (Wa)]

The leak is through the hydraulic pump drive oil seal. In 300B that piece is p/n G10421 before tractor serial nr 6097696 and p/n G13816 after that s/n. This a common leak.

Unscrew the tach drive and remove the 4 bolts. Housing assembly pulls out as a unit. You should replace all parts noted and check out the ball bearing.

All the lip seals are available in Chicago Rawhide (CR) via Napa & other vendors.

Joe

 

[Stephen Newell]

Hi Joe,
Thanks for the info.
I couldn"t resist trying to take the release bearing off the carrier. I put a couple pieces of 1/4" steel across my vice with the bearing between and knocked it out with a piece of 1 1/2" rod that I had. It wasn"t hard at all. I then found a replacement bearing from dealsinapinch that was advertised for a 300 or 310B tractor for $29.00. On that particular item they didn"t give any specifications so I didn"t know if it would work for me. Most release bearings were 2 3/8" ID where the A-899-2 was 1 3/4". I contacted them for more info.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Excellent. That looks like a sealed bearing. The one I took apart was semi-shielded. Go to the link below and enter A-889-2 in "Exchange Look-up", is that 1752 the right dimensions. The pic indicates this 1752 is an open bearing, may be a generic pic. Need a sealed brg, FM or some other mfr will make a sealed 1752.

Joe
FMogal

 

[Stephen Newell]

I heard from dealsinapinch and they don't carry the release bearing. I went to FMogal and looked up the 1752 bearing and the size is correct but it is listed as a G2 bearing. I briefly did a google search on G2 to find out what that means and it is listed as a wheel bearing and not a thrust bearing so the picture is probably correct.
I took my flywheel to the machine shop today to have it surfaced and the ring gear reversed and the guy didn't like the idea. He said they have had good luck reversing the ring gears on cars but not tractors. He said they often warp getting them hot enough to get them off. He suggested making a timing mark 180 degrees from the other one so I could start using a better spot. It sounds like a good idea to me. He said my ring gear really wasn't that bad anyway.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

I don"t have any suggestions on the bearing. You"ve progressed further than anyone I know of. Be good to hear you find a bearing and get it successfully reassembled.

You don"t have to heat the ring gear to remove it from the flywheel. Just lay the flywheel down flat and with a drift and about a 4# hammer bump it off evenly. I"ve done several 300's and have never had to use heat.

Put the ring gear on flat surface like a large pizza pan and in the oven for 1 hr @ about 450 degs. Lay it back on the flywheel and hold it in the desired position until it contracts and seizes.

I am not surprised that warpage can be a problem if the ring gear were heated with a torch while on the flywheel. The flywheel is a large mass compared to the ring gear and acts as a major heat sink. There is no way you're going to evenly heat the ring gear even with a rosebud.

Joe

 

[Joe (Wa)]

And of course I forgot to mention that the fasteners on the flywheel are indexed. It only mounts in one position on the crank.

Joe

 

[Stephen Newell]

Well score 2 for Joe and 0 for my machine shop. You can"t see it but those mounting bolts really aren"t symmetrical. I even marked the flywheel for position so that I would get it back on the same. You were right also about the ring gear. I laid in on the concrete floor and worked my way around it a couple of times and it came off easy. I"ll have to wait till my wife"s gone for the day to put the gear in her oven.
Thanks

 

[Joe (Wa)]

If you look closely at the flywheel pic above, the span between fasteners at about 4 o"clock is greater than the adjacent spans. Note that someone has also marked this flywheel at 12 o"clock.

If this is you"re first one, I think you"ll be surprised how much thermal growth there will be at that moderate oven temp. I generally turn the ring gear over and position so the damaged teeth are about 1/2 way between the engine stops on cyl compression strokes. Plenty of time to position but don"t be a turtle.

Joe

 

[Stephen Newell]

I found release bearings for the 300. Case-IH parts has one for $23.13. Steiner has one for $19.95 and found one on Ebay for $18.00

 

[Rasman]

My 56 310 has the double clutch. Case dealer parts manager tried to find me the plates or the reline kit and said they are no longer available. He said the kit (lining and rivets) was only $53 but sadly was NLA. The clutch plates were $215 EACH! I guess I was glad they were NLA. I need to find an outfit that relines the old ones.