Case 310G Steering

Todd_B

Member
My 310G is getting real hard to steer.I pulled diff cover,adj brakes [per manual],I have approx 1/4" of meat left on shoes.I used up almost all of the adj to get the 1/4" of play that manual called for.Are these brakes shot?Never owned a crawler before,so I don't know what good shoes look like.Thanks for any help/advise.
 
I have 85w-145w in the trans/diff.Fluids are fresh,maybe 2-3 months old.Manual calls for 80W in winter & 90W in summer.The 85W-145W was the only thing close to it that I could find at Farm & fleet.Is this too thick maybe? I'm only using the crawler 1-2 days a week to dig out a pond on my property.It's not a regular worker,though it does run for 6-8 hours at a time when I use it.
 
Just an idea, for Oliver they specifically call for a GL-1 oil, from others here and elsewhere, if you use any other type say GL-3,4,5 oil it will coat the bands and not allow it to grab and turn.Don't know about the oil rating a Case calls for,but it might be the same.The oil we use in our Oliver OC46 is from NAPA # NHF65-205, thats 90w GL1 oil.
 
Just an idea, for Oliver they specifically call for a GL-1 oil, from others here and elsewhere, if you use any other type say GL-3,4,5 oil it will coat the bands and not allow it to grab and turn.Don't know about the oil rating a Case calls for,but it might be the same.The oil we use in our Oliver OC46 is from NAPA # NHF65-205, thats 90w GL1 oil.
 
Todd I thought you might be using gl5 I have a Case 310E and from personal experience I can tell you that the additives in the gl5 will dissolve seals as well as brake bands and cause lots of leaks. I'd get the gl5 flushed out of there and replaced with mineral oil (GL1) ASAP. I had to order mine from local heating oil distributor who handled Chevron products.
 
I've had a couple of Case 310s and Oliver OC3s that would not steer at all when GL5 oil was put into the transmission. Once drained and refilled with non-degergent 40W motor oil, or GL-1 trans oil, they got better again. But, it took quite awhile.

GL5 has phosphorus and zinc that plugs up the brake bands and stops them from grabbing. That's why you have to use pure mineral oil, and NOT GL4 or GL5 oil with the EP additives.
 
Thanks,I'm going tomarrow and getting some 80W-90W from the local Moble distributor.It's called "Moble Lube HD Plus".
 
Unless I'm missing something here, that is just a another GL-5 rated oil that is full of EP additives that you do NOT want.

You need oil that does NOT have those additives. E.g., 40W non-detergent motor oil from Tractor Supply, "Ford 90W transmission oil" frm Tractor supply, or any transmission oil you can find rated no higher then GL-1.

Unimark Oil Co., Kansas - "Fleet, Farm and Field GL-1" comes in 90W and 140W and is pure mineral oil.

Warren Unilube Inc., "Coastal GL-1 90W."

Rallye Lubricants, Florida, "Premium General Purpose GL-1"

British Petroleum, "BP Gear Oil 90 GL-1"

Gilco Oil, Texas, "Multi-purpose GL-1 90W SAE 90W and 140W"

Valvoline TRA straight mineral gear oil

The main thing is, is has to be pure mineral oil with NO extreme-pressure additives.

Walmart, Amazon ,etc. sell the Warren oil. Most NAPA stores can order in the Valvoline. Tractor Supply sells GL-1 as "Ford transmission oil."
 
I just did a brake shoe replace on my 310G. 1/4" is not a good way to tell if there's enough shoe thickness. The only way to really tell is to pull out the shoe far enough to see if they are worn down to the rivets.
The shoes on my 310G looked good for the most part (1/4" or so)except the left one was worn down to the metal at the top adjuster. When I removed the shoes there was rivet wear here and there so I replaced them.
The new shoes came without clevises (the fork at the top of the band that contacts the lever actuator) so some tricky work was involved there(I used the ones out of the old shoes).
I don't know how the shoe replacement is done professionally but I managed it OK with some more tricks.
I now have steering.
 
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