Case 500 diesel questions

[diesel833]

Alright guys, I am now the proud (and maybe stupid) owner of
a big Case 500 diesel, 1953 model. The tractor has sat in a
barn for 30+ years and the motor is currently locked up, the
owner claims it was not when it was put in the barn. I am
going to get to work freeing the motor, but I am concerned
with the injection pump. It is a Bosch pump. Do I need to
worry about anything being "locked up" in the pump, or can I
just pull away and see what happens? I have come to terms I
will likely have to send the pump and injectors off to be rebuilt,
but I don't want to get a lot of money wrapped up in that if the
motor is completely junk. This is my first time around a 500
so feel free to pass along any other tips or tricks any of you
know about these tractors. I'll try to get some pictures
uploaded in the next couple days, it doesn't look like I can do
it from my phone. Thanks!

 

[r.w.b.]

If it were me first thing I'd do is jack a rear wheel up , put it in high gear.engage clutch n rock the wheel a lot and give it some hard yanking.lots of times this will break it loose if just stuck from setting.not sure what to say about the pump but mine set 6 years, we rocked rear wheel and it was free .pulled it about 20 feet n she fired up ok.also it has a decompression rod.helps to tie Iit open and if it breaks loose spin it a few times before pulling to get it to run

 

[diesel833]

Yeah I'm afraid it might be a bit more stuck than that I put it in
gear and engaged the clutch when we were loading it with the
backhoe and it just drug the back tires. I'm thinking I may just
go ahead and pull one or all of the heads and see what it
looks like.

 

[r.w.b.]

That's why I prefer rocking a wheel, its kinda like an impack hammer, where pulling is a steady push.the rocking action sometimes jars them loose.good luck they are heavy tractors

 

[jon f mn]

If it is a rotary bosh the throttle shaft has a habbit of stickimg when they sit. That can cause the engine run away or be stuck in any position including off. The shaft is under the cover right below the head and should move freely when you move the throttle.

If it's been converted to an inline pump that is less likely but you should still check to see if the rack is free.

 

[John Saeli]

ABSOLUTELY DO NOT TRY TO FREE THE ENGINE UNTIL!!!!!!!!Until you make sure the pump drive is free. If the internals in the pump are seized, which is most likely the case, the drive shaft will shear. Someone smarter than me on those American Bosch Pumps will chime in & tell you how to free the pump. Removal may be necessary. Jon is referring to the Governor shaft, I am referring to the drive shaft.

 

[diesel833]

Good to know, thanks for all of the input guys. If anyone can chime in and let me know how to make sure the pump drive is free I'd appreciate it. As far as I can tell it's a rotary pump. Type # PSB6A-75C-3411AI. I'll try to get pictures up soon.

 

[jimvw]

If it is a PSB pump. Remove the two screws which hold the side cover in place. Then remove the side cover. Using a screwdriver verify that the pumping plunger is free and can go up and down when actuated by the camshaft. You should be able to lift the cam follow and pumping plunger with a screwdriver. Also a good idea to spray some good penetrating lube on those moving parts which are visible with the cover removed. If you fail to verify that the pumping plunger is free, you may be buying a head and rotor for the pump. On some applications these parts are no longer avaliable.

 

[dkeav]

Precisely this. I bought one from a gentlemen in the same predicament, let it sit for about 20 years, then tried to pull start it. All he accomplished was bending 4 pushrods and breaking the driver off in the pump. Had a junk motor with enough parts to fix everything luckily.

 

[Roger S]

If it were mine, I would remove the injection pump and make sure the input shaft turns. If you turn it 2 turns to the right, turn it 2 turns to the left and the timming will be the same when reinstalled. If it doesn't turn you need to spray wd40 or a penetrant into the inlet of the pump and work the input shaft back and forth till it will turn, Be carefull how hard you pry on the shaft, give the penetrant time to work. Next take the cover, above the transfer pump, off on the side of the pump. you will see a lever pointing down with a rod that goes to the back of the pump. The lever will move forward and back if free. Put throttle on tractor in mid position to try this. If it won't move penetrant at pivot points and pliar to try and free up. The throttle is what you are moving. Next I would remove the valve covers and spray the valve stems with penetrant, and use a prybar to see that when you push them down they move and come back up when released. Now to get the motor unstuck, I usually have to take the starter out to clean and oil it to make it work. It's a good time test it while it is off. If you have a large prybar with a flat end you should be able to get into one of the teeth on the ring gear and pry against the starter housing. If this doesn't work there are inspection plates that enter the tractor clutch area. If you pry on the pressure plate, do not pry where the forks pivot, or attach to the pressure plate, it will break. If you are unable to move the motor, you can remove the injectors and spray penetrant in the cylinders, I like kroil. Then it is a waiting game. The jacking up one tire method and rocking back and forth may work. May take a day, or 3 weeks. Be carefull if you remove the injectors, they come out hard and will break, pry from both sides. Short cuts can be taken and you may come out ok, but injection pumps are getting hard to find. I try to keep a few parts around because I usually buy tractors that have been setting a long time.

 

[Dieseltech]

The only way I've been able to save any PSB pump that's been setting is DO NOT TURN IT! I've saved a few, but not if the owner turned the engine. I tell them to remove the pump as is where is, don't even time it. The last one was from a MH 44, owner brought three pumps, barely had enough to make one good pump that worked. If turned, plunger can break, plunger guide GU 903, or the quill shaft and/or the drive pins. Getting harder to find a good working hydraulic head at the bone yard too.

 

[tomturkey]

Given the opportunity I would probably buy a 500. And proceed slowly with any action. It did not get stuck in one day and it probably wont get unstuck in a day. gobble

 

[Al Baker(pumpman)]

I have done/ saved many PSBs, most off of case tractors. If the pump didnt have water in it before it was parked, and hasnt been turned over while sitting i should be able to save it. Reseal and run pump on my stand, clean, test ,reset nozzles $450.00. Don L. at Rusty Acres , Austin Mn, is also a good place for pumps, nozzles and all parts for letter series case tractors. One of the nicest guys you will find to work with.

 

[diesel833]

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[diesel833]

Ok, finally got a few pictures up. Here is my project haha. It's in ok shape. I have 2 hoods and 2 fuel tanks for it, and most all of the tin is straight. I looks to me like a part of the exhaust manifold were the muffler or pipe would connect has rusted off, I'm hoping to be able to weld in another pipe. It'll be a long road, but its a neat old tractor and definitely not one you see every day.

 

[diesel833]

I appreciate everyone's replies, at this point I think I will just pull the pump off and then work on getting the motor free. I'll likely send the pump off somewhere and have it gone through, likely needs it after all of these years anyway. I have already pulled the injectors and had multiple people (not just on here) recommend soaking the cylinders with Kroil. I'm going to pick some up and hope to get to work on it this weekend....the whole thing has my interest sparked now and made it jump to the front of my project list, I would just love to hear the old girl run!

 

[Don Rudolph]

You won't be sorry when that sweet running 500 engine comes back to life. Don

 

[Bobl1958]

It also looks like the heads have been worked on. You might be in better shape than you realize. I've had a couple of them and they are a great running tractor. Just watch the temp gauge and if you have to get into the thermostat, either take it out or drill a hole in it to allow water to keep filtering through. They are a great plow tractor. Keep us posted. Bob

 

[big tee]

I think you need this one for parts.---Tee

 

[diesel833]

Haha I may! Where are you located?

 

[big tee]

N.E. Iowa

 

[caseman-d]

I always had better luck pulling the starter of and putting a big bar on the flywheel. Try to pry it backwards sometimes help the best. If you are going to pull the injectors then squirt something down the cylinders. I try a atf alcohol diesel fuel mix. On another site someone mentioned they had good luck with seafoam.
caseman-d

 

[diesel833]

Well I got the starter, the injectors and the pump pulled last night. Glad I got everyone's input on the pump, it is locked up so who knows what damage I would have caused trying to turn the motor over with it on. I sprayed a bunch of penetrating oil in the cylinders, I might try to pick up some Kroil tonight (have had several recommendations for it.). I'll try to keep everyone that's following along updated as I progress.

 

[shinnery]

As far as I know you will have to order Kroil from Tennesse. I did years ago.