Case 511-b solenoid

[1950casedc]

I have a 1959 Case 511-B that the solenoid keeps going bad on. Does anyone know if
there is a specific solenoid I should be getting for this tractor or if something else
could be causing my issue? I don't use the tractor much but have replaced the solenoid
once or twice a season. I have been buying the solenoids at autozone or oriellys, just
basic truck solenoids.
Thanks for any help!

 

[1950casedc]

Pic

 

[John Saeli]

Low voltage and heat can destroy a solenoid. Low voltage & heat can come from worn out battery cable or cable that is too small. Your 511-B should have 1 Gauge Cable. Battery cable is like water pipe in that it needs to be big enough to do the job, and with time, it wears down.

 

[connor9988]

Double check you battery connections. Many of mine would just Click once and do nothing and after I wiggled the cable on the battery posts it would go just fine. I had been buying new solenoids for no reason as they were all good.

 

[r.w.b.]

discovered napa carries a very heavy duty solonoid in both 6 and 12 volt. be sure and get 1 for same voltage as your tractor uses.
in over 30 years i replaced 1 on my 312 case. paid more but its what you pay for. reason i know my electric hydraulic bale spear on my pickup uses 2 and those cheepies never last that job long

 

[matthies]

On the 4 terminal solenoids, the second small terminal is used as a ground, so with you not using that terminal it may be searching for a ground and causing short life.

 

[wore out]

If it worked at all as connected it is the type with a ballast resistor bypass and connecting that ''I'' terminal to ground would not be a good thing to do!

 

[used red MN]

Poster said ..On the 4 terminal solenoids, the second small terminal is used as a ground, so with you not using that terminal it may be searching for a ground and causing short life..
This is NOT NECESSARILY a correct statement. There are many configurations of those types of solenoids. Generally a 4th post configuration that uses that terminal for grounding is only using the ground to complete the circuit of the pull in coil. Say for instance the shift lever has a neutral switch on it that grounds in neutral. A circuit is connected to that so when the key switch is powering one side of the internal magnetic coil the other circuit completes the ground and the solenoid contacts. We are starting to really veer off subject in a Tim Daley way. The most common automotive 4 post solenoid has an internal contact that energizes the fourth post during the starting process. This is for some configurations that give ignition system 12 V and a hotter spark during starting. So if you should look for a high or an I or R by that terminal this will tell you that that is the type of solenoid you have. if you took the posters recommendation and ground out that wire, youll be causing a direct short to ground when the solenoid is energized to start the engine. I would suggest you go to Napa and get a solenoid from them. In the past it has been my experience that they have a parts that are a notch above in quality over most of the parts they handle. The one in the 1st link is probably more like the one your tractor had originally. A second option would be to obtain a ..Standard Ignition.. brand Blue Streak solenoid. The Blue Streak line is touted as the higher quality offerings in the ..Standard.. line, example in 2nd link use that part number.
NAPA part

Blue Streak example on eBay