Case 511B problem

[Jefd]

My 511B third and fourth gear stopped working today. I still have 1,2 and reverse. It’s a triple range. I put it in low range, then I got it into 3rd gear once. When I switched to fourth gear, it was still in third. Then went back to D in the triple range then lost that. Tried high range and still only have 1,2, and reverse.
Thanks for any help.
Jeff

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Has nothing to do with the triple range. Sounds like a 4 speed shifter problem. The 3&4 fork screw may have come loose on the rail. Also the interlock plugs can get so worn that shifting from one gear to another gear the fork(s) tries to engage two gears at the same time. That either causes a lock up, neither gear engages and it back in the original gear or in neutral. Check the detent balls and seats on the rails for wear

Careful when planting the shifter. Line up shifter collars, special attention to the reverse collar and fork, that's the one that gets bent. Tilt the shifter to start the reverse fork in first is best for me, ymmd.

 

[Jefd]

Well, the problem is a broken 3&4 fork which I fished out of the sump. If I can find one, how awful of a job will it be to replace? Also, can the tractor be operated in 1,2, and reverse, or will the 3&4 gear move around on its own and cause problems.
Thanks as always. Jeff

 

[Dennis K]

My 511b needed the reverse idler and I found one at All States Ag and 1 at a tractor salvage. Should not be hard to find one. I wouldn't run it until repaired. Shouldn't be hard to replace.

 

[mEl]

If it was mine I would have a good welder put it back together, I have welded a few in my time and if you keep it straight you will have no problems at all. With the gears in neutral get a measurement on the shifter slot and make sure the fork is the same measurement. A good weld will be as good as new. I'm sure some will disagree but that ok, some of this stuff is even getting difficult to find now. Yes, the gear is free to move without the fork securing it.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

3&4 fork p/n G10333 subs to A41468. It was used on many model tractors during that era.

If you don't weld Don Livingston, Austin MN, (507) 433-0073 should have it.

If you need to do a salvage yard hunt I can post a list of tractor models that use that p/n fork if you want it.

 

[Jefd]

Ok. I’ll try him. Thanks.

 

[Jefd]

Rusty Acres had a fork, found a gasket online. Stay tuned for details! Great pictures Joe! Looks like I need to be extremely careful with the springs and balls in the plate.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Here is some info from a 300B service manual. IIRC 500b is the same.

 

[Jefd]

Well ok, I'm nearing the end of this project. Needed to step back for a bit due to knee surgery. I got everything replaced as far as the fork goes, now I just need a soution for sealing the speedometer cable. I cannot find the G10799 grommet. There are 2 options. Find a sealant or get rid of the speedo cable and plug the opening solid as the speedo has never worked in the 30 years I've been using this tractor.
Thoughts?

 

[Tgrasher]

My go to sealant for the cable is Black RTV. The notch the cable goes through can have a dab put in it, place the cable in, and add another dab. Also good for sealing the plate with a thin smear. Usually, speedometers quit from the cable breaking, ie lack of lubricant. A new universal cable and some oil to the unit may get it working.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Ditto What TG said. Before you buy a cable pull the drive to check the gear. Gear is made of a phenolic material, very tough but tends to wear down the load side of the teeth. Stake the screws.