Case 530 ck lost almost all power in reverse.

[msperano]

Hi all,
Case 30 ck 1964. Dry clutch, no torque converter. Manual shuttle. 8 gears with hi,lo.
Any suggestions. Was moving dirt for about 2 hours without any issues. Started to notice the tractor struggling to get back up the inclines in reverse. Just thought it was because the dirt was wet. It progressively got worse and now barely moves in reverse. Forward is fine and still has lots of torque.

 

[mEl]

Does the engine lug down and stall in reverse when it doesn't want to move?

 

[msperano]

No, change in the engine. That's what threw me off at first the engine sounded like it was working normal. That's why I only noticed it when I got on flat ground

 

[used red MN]

Hello ms.. welcome to YT! Check your PMs at the envelope/letter at the top, I have some info in there for you. I don’t have know anything about your specific model, but know transmissions and clutches in general pretty good. I didn’t look at the info I shared with you as it applies to your issue. Looking at the part’s diagram for a manual shuttle what you are saying is very confusing. If something is slipping in reverse it seems like it would also slip in forward. It looks like gears are switching forward and back. Also about the only thing that could slip would be the clutch. The only thing that comes to mind is the possibility that you have misunderstood the type of drive train that your tractor is equipped with.

 

[mEl]

With the info you have given us the tractor driving forward but not back is an unusual complaint. If there is no grinding in reverse the most logical solution is clutch slippage if the engine does not bog down. Did you check clutch pedal free travel? That is the first item I would check if you are sure you have a dry clutch mechanical shuttle. The clutch pedal should push down easily about 2 inches then get firm as the release bearing contacts the clutch fingers. will the clutch stall the engine in forward shuttle.

 

[msperano]

Thanks for your replys. Am I sure no, its what I was told. New to owning and fixing a tractor. Im attaching some pics if you can tell from them if its a dry clutch. There is no grinding.
I do not feel slippage, assuming I would feel like a grab and release sputter. It just stays a full rev no change in the engine but just barley moves when in reverse. It was working fine. Forward still works without issue. If I put the bucket against a tree the engine will stall in forward.. Thanks for the manual, I have combed through those already and I cant come up with a connection.

 

[mEl]

You have as you stated a dry clutch mechanical shuttle, the only thing I can think of is a problem with the revers synchronizer not locking in. When you are trying to back up if you put pressure on the shuttle lever in the reverse position does that make it want to move a little more. get it where it can move easily and try that. If it does, I will explain why later.

 

[msperano]

You have as you stated a dry clutch mechanical shuttle, the only thing I can think of is a problem with the revers synchronizer not locking in. When you are trying to back up if you put pressure on the shuttle lever in the reverse position does that make it want to move a little more. get it where it can move easily and try that. If it does, I will explain why later.

Ok will do, Well report back later this evening.

 

[Liquid_wrench]

My hi and low lever will pop out of gear once in a while in reverse and forward, if I hold the lever its fine. Sometimes it's fine. This may be what is going on with yours? Think I'm going to try straight 90W gear oil in rear end and 4-speed gear box instead of 75w90. My Transmission and loader has Hytran equivalent from Napa. I have the same setup as you. 1963 530ck w backhoe and loader.

 

[msperano]

Ok, so I replaced the flat tire I had and was able to move the tractor again. So turns out the lack of power is now in both directions. Hi barely moves, if I reve the engine and sit there it will eventually catch and start movein very slowly. In lo it moves right away but lacks torque but at least will move itself. Assuming this means it's the clutch
?

 

[used red MN]

Does you clutch have any free play on the pedal? Free play is low tension movement of the pedal in the first part of the travel when being depressed. Just making sure it has a 1/2” to 3/4”’is sufficient to determine the clutch is for certain worn out and slipping. The end of free play is the point when the throwout bearing hits the clutch pressure plate fingers then more resistance is felt when continuing to push the pedal because you have to overcome the apply pressure of the pressure plates springs. If there is no free play the clutch is possibly being held partly released which may obviously present your current problem. If you adjust the free play and find it goes away quickly either the clutch is near end of life or your operating practices are borderline abusive on the clutch. Likely meaning you slip it to much, using a lower gear is one way to alleviate this problem.

 

[msperano]

Thank you. I will check that. Can you explain slipping to much. It has been working hard moving soft dirt. It gets stuck a lot. One tire could spin and one not. I use the bucket to raise the front while in gear and push the tractor back with tilting the bucket till the tires catch.

 

[rustred]

Thank you. I will check that. Can you explain slipping to much. It has been working hard moving soft dirt. It gets stuck a lot. One tire could spin and one not. I use the bucket to raise the front while in gear and push the tractor back with tilting the bucket till the tires catch.

pretty normal situation for any front end loader tractor, the load makes the rear light. add lots of rear wheel weights is the answer , well actually will help.

 

[msperano]

I don't detect any discernible difference in play at all in the pedal. I would would say it has the same pressure from start to finish.
Are you telling me to try to adjust the linkage to give the three quarter inch of freeeplay at the top end

 

[msperano]

I would assume adjustment means just unscrewing the linkage a bit in these pictures?

 

[rustred]

free play is the amount of travel the release brg. has before it touches the pressure plate fingers. you do not want the brg. turning at all when the clutch is released, means foot of the clutch. you can feel this movement by pushing in the pedal with your hand also. it will move easy then come to a stop thats when the brg. is touching the fingers. hard pedal right off the bat means no free play ... bad ! adjust accordingly.

 

[rustred]

I would assume adjustment means just unscrewing the linkage a bit in these pictures?

you need to follow the rod from the clutch pedal to find that adjustment,... your pictures show nothing.

 

[rustred]

and to add slipping the clutch causes disc wear, which in turn cause less free play, keeping free play adjusted periodically is a good preventative maintenance thing to get into... sure saves the clutch and more money in your pocket.

 

[msperano]

In the pictures. The first picture is the rod that enters the engine housing. The second picture is the linkage which appears to be adjustable. Attaching another photo of under the clutch pedal and the linkage. Using my hand and you feel slight movement but there is a definitely noise change that's coming from the transmission while depressing the clutch. It does not appear to be any free play as I press the clutch and immediately start to making the noise but when it's all the way released the noise stops

 

[msperano]

and to add slipping the clutch causes disc wear, which in turn cause less free play, keeping free play adjusted periodically is a good preventative maintenance thing to get into... sure saves the clutch and more money in your pocket.

Can you explain slipping the clutch. Trying to understand what I'm doing that may have caused premature where