Case 580B Drive wheel issue

[scott70]

I have a 580B with shuttle and the left rear drive wheel is not moving when I put it in forward. If I put the right brake on, press the trac lock and press the throttle all the way down I can get very small movement out of it. When placed in reverse it moves more or less normally. It ran fine back in the fall before I change the brakes. After doing them i moved it forward and back to make sure they were working but then parked it for the winter. Nothing else has changed. I did loosen the left brake because I thought it was sticking. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Nordic]

Have you lifted the back wheel off the ground and tried moving it in both directions by hand? If it doesn't move easily the brake may still be adjusted too tightly?

 

[AJ.]

I agree with Nordic that it's a brake issue, make sure the adjustment is correct, like he said see the wheel is free, if not put it in reverse and jab on the brake and see if it is free now if so the expanding actuator is more than likely worn and is sticking in the on position, the balls in the actuator can ware a second hole and stick there when the brake is applied and will not release until the brake is applied going in reverse, if that's happening the actuator will need replacing.
AJ

 

[fossil]

I have plenty of 580 b parts going to scrap one out if you need something let me know

 

[RESLLS]

Fossil, where are you? I need a few b
parts.

 

[scott70]

Well I finally got time Sunday and lifted the rear off the ground and the left side would turn more or less freely in reverse but hung right away going forward. moving it back and forth a couple times I was able to get to rotate forward for a revolution but it locked up after that. a couple more times doing the same thing I got a little bit of movement but not a full revolution. I pulled the brake housing off and the wheel turns freely. The actuator is not froze and is brand new. I put the housing back on but didn't fully tighten it to the final drive and the wheel still turned freely. As soon as I tighten it down the wheel locks. Is it possible that the actuator is assembled wrong or am I missing some kind of spacer between the housing and the final drive? The housing that was on it when I bought it was cracked open and I had to buy a replacement. I did compare the two to make sure that they were the same dimensions.

 

[AJ.]

The only difference I remember was between the keyed and flanged axle and that the brake housing differed, but it was where the linkage connected, put a straight edge across the housing and measure the depth to where the disc makes contact and see if the two are the same, see the actuator is assembled correctly and is fully closed with all the springs in place, must be something simple when it is free till you tighten it up, at least it does not look like the diff has an issue.
AJ

 

[scott70]

I took the brake housing and actuator off. The actuator is assembled correctly and moves as it should. I laid a straight edge across both old and new housings and measured the depth to the disc contact surface. There is just shy of 1/16" difference between them but that because the old one is gouged really bad. Both housing are the same part number so I don't know where the issue lies. Is there a shim of some type between the housing and the side plate? The actuator is the same as the right side. The old actuator is buried somewhere in my scrap pile. I guess I should dig it out and compare it to the new one. I'm almost at the point that I'm going to put washer between the housing and plate to give me the distance I need

 

[scott70]

Here are picture of the old housing and the new actuator.[/img:b66a1f84c0]

 

[Jim.ME]

You may need to make a couple more posts before the spam filters will let you add pictures to your posts, often folks must have 5 or more posts on record before that happens. You can try making a couple and adding picture down on the test forum. Or go to the Site Comments Forum and ask YT Support for permission to post pictures.

 

[AJ.]

OK the housing is right if it's got the same part #, I never seen any shims there and there is none shown in the pares list, the only other thing I can think of is the splines ok on the shaft, check those splines in case they are blurred and not allowing the actuator to go in as far as needed, with a new housing and actuator it will have to go further on to the shaft as it is now wider than with the old parts, if that fails do what you said put some washers of the same thickness between the housing and the carrier, as long as it's tight it will be ok, see how fare.
AJ

 

[scott70]

I checked splines and they are good. The actuator sits against the final drive as it should. I reinstalled everything with washers to standoff the housing. Its working correctly like that so I'm leaving it be for now. Now to fix all the hydraulic leaks that developed over the winter.

Thanks for the advise

 

[AJ.]

It's amazing when I do brakes it is the opposite problem I have the brake won't be good enough yours want to be on before you press the pedal, them been free with spacers in and the spline good the actuator or disc must be wider, as a matter of interest is the parts you used OME or aftermarket, glad you are up and running again nothing worse than spending money and having a bad result.
Good luck
AJ

 

[scott70]

I bought the housing and actuators from external_link.com. The housing is factory off a machine in their yard and the actuators were remain by them but I have no idea if they were OEM or aftermarket. The original actuator and housing that was on the left side were busted apart

 

[scott70]

Do you have a gland in good condition for the loader lift cylinder on a 580B? I went to rebuild mine and the one side is worn into a oval