Case 610b

[richard204]

Hi all, I recently acquired a 1959 610b gas.
I am looking to do a full rebuild on it. Top and bottom. I believe it's a g164 but I am unsure.

Questions one: engine serial is 210p04437 and block is stamped G2000. Is this a g164?

Questions two: I currently have the head off and I have a stuck exhaust valve on cylinder #3 and cracked intake spring on cylinder #1. Does anyone know where I can get a valve kit for this tractor.

Questions three: tachometer is broken. I have a line on a whole new dash but it is out of 730. Does anyone know if thay are interchangeable. They look the same but I have a feeling they rotate in opposite directions.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[Tgrasher]

The tachometer possibility could be made to work again. If it won't turn, it could be as simple as getting it freed and lubed again. The brass tip at the bottom were the cable goes in should turn by finger tip counter clockwise.

Sometimes the gears get rusted and the unit needs removed from the gauge housing to be cleaned, oiled, and gently made to move. There is a tiny spring and delicate workings on the needle that needs careful handling. The usual problem is the cable is broken from lack of lubricant and is an easy fix with a universal cable, providing the sheath is good.

The engine is a 164 ci and parts are a little harder to find. Try John Saeli 315-585-9826 for a start.

 

[richard204]

Thanks for the reply, I took out the dash today to get a better look and it looks like someone took pliers to the bras at some point in time. It spins but very rough. Cable is in good shape but it will not turn with the cable inserted. I oiled it up hopefully it frees up in a few days. Needle Moves freely.

also this might be a silly question. How do you get the temperature gauge wire out? Does it just plug in or is it one unit ?

 

[Tgrasher]

Your gauge cluster is in remarkably good shape. Your doing correct on the tach. The glass needs to be replaced as moisture is your enemy. I use black RTV to seal the cluster up, it drys and becomes as good as the original. On the temperature gauge, I'm not sure on your model. Look where the bulb/sensor goes into the block. If is electric wire, it should have a nut to release the wire at the gauge. If it has a metal line, then it is all one unit. Test all your gauges, sometimes it's just corrosion causing the problem.

Here's a picture of the usual gauge cluster I find.

 

[richard204]

Your gauge cluster is in remarkably good shape. Your doing correct on the tach. The glass needs to be replaced as moisture is your enemy. I use black RTV to seal the cluster up, it drys and becomes as good as the original. On the temperature gauge, I'm not sure on your model. Look where the bulb/sensor goes into the block. If is electric wire, it should have a nut to release the wire at the gauge. If it has a metal line, then it is all one unit. Test all your gauges, sometimes it's just corrosion causing the problem.

Here's a picture of the usual gauge cluster I find.

I was able to pop the counter off but I was stumped on how to take the rest of it apart. I bought a cluster of a local guy in my area. Glass is intact and not cracked. But tach spins clockwise. I belive it was out of a 700 diesel. It looks like they can be taken apart to switch the direction. Bad news is he cut all the lines on the back of the cluster. And both of them are mechanical temp sensors. I hope mine is able to be saved.

Also to change the glass do you peel up the tabs on the crome trim to separate?

 

[richard204]

I was able to pop the counter off but I was stumped on how to take the rest of it apart. I bought a cluster of a local guy in my area. Glass is intact and not cracked. But tach spins clockwise. I belive it was out of a 700 diesel. It looks like they can be taken apart to switch the direction. Bad news is he cut all the lines on the back of the cluster. And both of them are mechanical temp sensors. I hope mine is able to be saved.

Also to change the glass do you peel up the tabs on the crome trim to separate?

Pretty remarkable your able to bring clusters that far gone back to life!

 

[Tgrasher]

I'm held up 370 miles from home til Saturday or I would be able to take pictures to help. The tabs need to be leveraged up enough to release the bezel from the housing. Usually a small screw driver and a pick to get it started are best to use. I could be wrong on the direction of the spin on that tach, some things I can't get locked in my head. If the tach spins and the needle reacts to the motion, no need to go further.
Your temperature gauge can be made to work by finding a new mechanical one at an auto parts store that has the same sweep/reading as the Case one. The new gauge will be in a sealed case so it has to be carefully opened to reveal the insides. You then take the face off of the original and epoxy it to the face of the new one. A bit of sizing may be needed but it is doable.

 

[richard204]

Really appreciate all the help. Whenever you have some time when you're back home pictures would be great. I just got the donor cluster on the bench today. soaking the bolts to take it apart. This tach is in good shape. I feel lucky to have found one in decent shape along with having a fairly clean original. I'm going to take a few days off frim the project to leat this one soak.

 

[chuck machinist]

Great post. Thanks for bringing this to light. CM

 

[Joe (Wa)]

The tachometer and speedometer are electro-mechanical drag cup movements. The cable spins a permanent magnet inside a permeable metal drag cup that rotates the attached pointer over the gauge range. If you flick the brass piece on the tach drive shaft with your fingers in the direction of the pointer sweep, it will generate enough magnetic flux to make the pointer jump. Check your speedometer same way. If the brass piece on the drive shaft moves freely and the pointer doesn't jump then shaft is almost always broken inside the molding bearing. 1958-59 series should have an vapor oiler on that bearing. Wrench marks on the brass piece is 99.9% broken shaft.

To free up tach or speedo bearing, clamp a short hose piece to the cable threads fill with penetrate. Cover hour counter and gauge face as penetrate may damage. Free up may take weeks. Wiggle the brass piece back and force with your fingers may speed things up.

 

[Tgrasher]

My memory was only have right, 730 tachometer spins counterclockwise, your 610B tach spins clockwise. The picture by Joe (Wa) on soaking the bearing works well as from him I learned to do it that way. Thanks Joe! After a period of time I go a little further and use a hammered square nail to give my fingers a bit more force to get the bearing free. After it's free, I use a straight hammered one to put a cordless drill on it at low speed, keeping it oiled, to work the corrosion out of it. The oil will come out dirty. In the picture you see those nails along side a piece of cable.
The temperature gauge parts in the picture are from one I found on a tractor parts rack at NAPA. The other picture shows the gauge finished.
For touch up I use a air brush with the paint from a spray can that is paint plus primer. I spray it in a small jar and then pour it in the tiny jar of the air brush.
There are actually two rubber gaskets on the glass, both of which are too hard from age to seal again. Using black RTV sealant with the nose piece to fill the grooves works best.

 

[richard204]

very nice restoration! I'll have to stop by my local hardware store and see if I can find a air brush.
I headed out to the garage today to oil up the gauges again. And my original started to move! I had an old tach cable u used to work it back and forth. My donor tach also has very nice movement. I'm confident I can get the original tach back up and running smooth. But if it quits on me in the future is it possible to change the gearing from the 730 tach to make it spin clockwise?

Also I was thinking I could take both of gaskets off once I'm at that point and get some new ones cut custom. at a gasket shop.

 

[richard204]

Appreciate the info! My original tach broke free today and is now moving. Going to keep oiling it and working it in

 

[richard204]

Also Just a general question for you guys. Is jensales and steiner tractor parts a reputable seller? I'm from Canada don't want ro go through the trouble if it's not worth it. Thanks.

 

[Tgrasher]

I've bought from both with no problems. The rubber torsion seat springs under your seat are one of the things that may need to be replaced and I used Steiner as they have a one year warranty on parts. The springs are made in "the land of almost right" and you never know when one will fail. They sell a bushing kit for the seat that seems high but by the time you go to a hardware store and pay their price for each bushing, you'll spend that much anyway. Without the kit, the worn seat will continue to flop around. New pins made from #5 grade bolts are a good idea too, any worn spot adds to the shaking seat.

 

[richard204]

Thats great I'm glad to hear that . It looks like they have most of the parts I'm looking for. Seat rebuild is definitely on my list of things to do. Time hasn't been kind to this old girl. I wonder how many are left out there they only made 744 units.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Right angle reversing cable adapter is usually used if the replacement tach or speedometer requires the opposite cable input rotation. They add additional load to the tach drive unit. Most Case tractor tach and speedometer drives in the 610B era have a phenolic composite gear that may not stand up to the extra load.