Any of you have any experience with a hydraulic suction screen or pickup screen on the 30 series. I have a 66 ji case 730 with weak hydraulics and parts man told me there is a suction screen that could be plugged. I"ve seen a diagram and read a little on this forum but where is it and how do you access it?
Graham from New Zealand
Member
I have a 1966 830 Comfort King. Same Service manual covers 730 and 830. There is a hydraulic oil pick up bolted on to the inside of the big rear plate with all PTO gears and Hydraulic pump. You will need to remove seat and mount, remove some bolts to lower drawbar assembly (be careful not to strain the depth control sensor in front of it) Remove the pressure line from pump to valves, remove all bolts from rear plate and carefully pull it off backwards. All gears come with it. The screen is bolted on the bottom left corner of it. On my tractor the screen disintegrated and allowed some nylon looking particles I believe from a disintegrated oil slinger gear from the gear box to get into the lift control valve and stop it operating. I fixed problem by buying a piece of stainless steel wire gauze and replaced the original screen with it. Had no trouble since.
Graham from New Zealand
Member
It is probably around the mid 1980s that I last did that job and I have retired to Australia so some detail might be a bit hazy, but you do need to have the back plate off. You might have to take the PTO engagement lever off the splines. Do be careful with lowering the drawbar assembly with lift arms enough to clear the plate so as not to stress the depth control rod up through the housing. I'm not exactly sure if it can easily be disconnected for it's safety. Be sure to use a good jack to control assembly. The whole job may seem a bit daunting to look at but not so bad really. But that rear plate is heavy so easier with help. We did the job a number of times as the PTO adjusting pin sometimes broke, always mid-season so we just replaced one each winter as a matter of course. Good chance to check especially PTO train and clutch as the 830 was predominantly a PTO used tractor. Change the spin-on filter too. Regards, Graham
Ok, thanks. It does seem a bit intimidating just looking at it but I'm certain the screen has never been checked or changed. The spin on filter has been because it looks to be a Wix brand. I will change it too. Also going to check the pto clutches. The former owner remarked that he had to adjust then occasionally. I recall my grandpa adjusting them too, back when he originally owned this tractor.
BattlingBob
New User
On my 831, the hydraulics completely stopped working. The screen inside the filter housing was clogged. The cleanable, re-usable filter on my machine, and probably on yours, is below the PTO shaft--three bolts and a housing you have to pry on to get loose. The filter can be cleaned in diesel. Through the opening, you can see the screened bottom on the pickup tube to the left--you can just get your hand in the chamber to pick debris off that screen. In my case, it made an instantaneous difference in the hydraulics performance. Turned out to have the same problem with the pickup tube in the Case-o-Matic housing. Is the screen totally, perfectly clean? Well, no--but with compressed air and enough carb cleaner, along with repeated flushing with diesel, it could be made so, with virtually no intimidation factor. I did have to use some sealant, as the filter housing gasket tore coming loose--but Form-a-Gasket was fine, as it's not a pressure situation.
BattlingBob
New User
A couple of additions here--the instructions for accessing this place are in the Case manual under "Hydraulic Control System Filter." The manual doesn't show the pickup tube back behind the filter, but it's there. The other issue was that I had to make up a couple of little wire clips to keep the filter and the housing together for reassembly. There were a couple of chunks of something in the bottom of the housing that may have been a retainer of some kind that the filter fitted over at the opposite end from the cover plate--but in mine, there was no way to hold the filter in place while you reinstalled the cover--but a couple of pieces of light, bendable wire did the job.
BattlingBob
New User
No--didn't remove the PTO. Remember that this is all on an 831, but the book is the same for a 730. Previous owners may have installed some sort of spin-on conversion kit on your tractor, but I wouldn't know that.
The factory version is this: BELOW the PTO shaft and just above the rear hydraulic system drain plug is a circular cover with three bolts around the perimeter and a threaded plug in the center. That's the hydraulic system filter cover. You undo the three bolts, pry the cover loose with a screwdriver--there are little insets on two corners of the housing to let you do this, because otherwise it will seem fused to the main casting--and pull out the filter assembly.
The filter itself is a simple open cylinder, like an oversized toilet-paper tube. It can be cleaned in diesel fuel and re-used, and will almost certainly be heavily covered in gunk.
If you shine a flashlight through the hole, toward the front and to your left as you look in, you'll see the end of the suction tube coming down to within about an inch of the reservoir bottom. The filter hole is big enough for a pretty good-sized hand to pass through to work on the screen end. You can't take the screen out without disassembling the back end of the tractor--but you can reach in and pick debris off the screen, flush repeatedly with diesel, squirt with carb cleaner, and so forth. You won't be able to SEE whether you're doing any good, but you should be able to tell by feel that you've got most of the debris off the screen.
When you've done everything you can do with that screen, mop out the floor of the reservoir carefully with paper towels to pick up anything that would just suck up into the screen again; reassemble your newly cleaned filter; and bolt the housing back on. You'll probably have to use some Form-a-Gasket as you will probably have damaged the gasket in removal. Refill with appropriate hydraulic/transmission fluid, and start 'er up.
I can't see on the "reply" screen whether I mentioned this before--but I had to fashion a couple of wire clips to keep the filter cylinder on the cover assembly for reinsertion. There were pieces of what may have been some kind of retainer in the gunk on the reservoir floor, but otherwise there did not appear to be any way to keep the filter in place between the cover and the filter elbow on the opposite end of the housing. When I do this again, I'll have a plan for fashioning a permanent keeper on that housing to hold the filter in place but still allow it to slip over the elbow at the other end.
Now--IF I were to disassemble the rear housing as others have suggested to get at that screen, I would darned sure cut it off the tube and replace it with a REMOVABLE screen held in place with a hose clamp or something that could simply be removed and thoroughly cleaned through the filter housing.
Hope this helps--it made a miraculous difference in the functioning of my old beast. Same thing happened with the Case-o-Matic, but that one at least is easy to get to.
The factory version is this: BELOW the PTO shaft and just above the rear hydraulic system drain plug is a circular cover with three bolts around the perimeter and a threaded plug in the center. That's the hydraulic system filter cover. You undo the three bolts, pry the cover loose with a screwdriver--there are little insets on two corners of the housing to let you do this, because otherwise it will seem fused to the main casting--and pull out the filter assembly.
The filter itself is a simple open cylinder, like an oversized toilet-paper tube. It can be cleaned in diesel fuel and re-used, and will almost certainly be heavily covered in gunk.
If you shine a flashlight through the hole, toward the front and to your left as you look in, you'll see the end of the suction tube coming down to within about an inch of the reservoir bottom. The filter hole is big enough for a pretty good-sized hand to pass through to work on the screen end. You can't take the screen out without disassembling the back end of the tractor--but you can reach in and pick debris off the screen, flush repeatedly with diesel, squirt with carb cleaner, and so forth. You won't be able to SEE whether you're doing any good, but you should be able to tell by feel that you've got most of the debris off the screen.
When you've done everything you can do with that screen, mop out the floor of the reservoir carefully with paper towels to pick up anything that would just suck up into the screen again; reassemble your newly cleaned filter; and bolt the housing back on. You'll probably have to use some Form-a-Gasket as you will probably have damaged the gasket in removal. Refill with appropriate hydraulic/transmission fluid, and start 'er up.
I can't see on the "reply" screen whether I mentioned this before--but I had to fashion a couple of wire clips to keep the filter cylinder on the cover assembly for reinsertion. There were pieces of what may have been some kind of retainer in the gunk on the reservoir floor, but otherwise there did not appear to be any way to keep the filter in place between the cover and the filter elbow on the opposite end of the housing. When I do this again, I'll have a plan for fashioning a permanent keeper on that housing to hold the filter in place but still allow it to slip over the elbow at the other end.
Now--IF I were to disassemble the rear housing as others have suggested to get at that screen, I would darned sure cut it off the tube and replace it with a REMOVABLE screen held in place with a hose clamp or something that could simply be removed and thoroughly cleaned through the filter housing.
Hope this helps--it made a miraculous difference in the functioning of my old beast. Same thing happened with the Case-o-Matic, but that one at least is easy to get to.
BattlingBob
New User
Just curious--what did you find?
I could not locate the filter
opening that you refered to
and I'm thinking maybe
yours is an earlier model.
Mine is a 66 comfort king.
It has a spin on filter up
under the left side platform.
Here's what I ended up
doing: My 16 year old son
used the tractor to load 30,
4x5 round bales of hay onto
a trailer for the neighbor.
This was with the three
point sissor lift. It worked
so good that when he was
finished and the oil was
good and warm we drained
it. Then we replaced the oil
with new oil and replaced
the spin on filter.
Hydraulics work good but
won't lift the larger 1400
pound bales with the sissor
lift. Lifts the smaller 900
pound bales so good that I
had to adjust the stop on
the position lever so that it
would not over lift above
the operator. Could be that
it's lifting too far back,
about 4 feet from the lift
arms. It will lift the heavier
bales close in with just a
standard three point spear.
opening that you refered to
and I'm thinking maybe
yours is an earlier model.
Mine is a 66 comfort king.
It has a spin on filter up
under the left side platform.
Here's what I ended up
doing: My 16 year old son
used the tractor to load 30,
4x5 round bales of hay onto
a trailer for the neighbor.
This was with the three
point sissor lift. It worked
so good that when he was
finished and the oil was
good and warm we drained
it. Then we replaced the oil
with new oil and replaced
the spin on filter.
Hydraulics work good but
won't lift the larger 1400
pound bales with the sissor
lift. Lifts the smaller 900
pound bales so good that I
had to adjust the stop on
the position lever so that it
would not over lift above
the operator. Could be that
it's lifting too far back,
about 4 feet from the lift
arms. It will lift the heavier
bales close in with just a
standard three point spear.
You are right on your assumption.When I read your original post I knew you nad no external opening to access that area. He is referring to the older 730-830 eagle hitch equipped tractors.
Unfortunately there is no way to clean the suction screen on your unit except removing the rear castiing complete, which involves dropping the rear of the drawbar support to allow the casting to slide back. Remove the drawbar, drain the tranny oil, disconnect the lower sensing linkage and remove all the side bolts except the two front ones which will allow the frame to swing down and out of the way. Remove the side cover at the upper rt side and the linkage arm from the lh side. Get two appx 6 " bolts and cut the heads off and grind a good taper on them and screw them into the two top corner holes securely. the casting will slide back those. Try to keep the rear unit as square as possible as the screen is easily damaged by dragging the lower top edge of the transmission case.
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