The steering is by far, IMO, the worst thing about 'em. One fix I've seen a lot is to use a newer, slightly bigger, 70-series hydraulic pump (bolts right in), then use the second port for the steering - you need to add a pressure relief, but not a big deal. Then, toss the factory steering cylinder/rotor/motor/whatever it is, and use regular cylinders, and a rotary steering valve either in the nose on the end of the linkage, or up on the side of the block where the first u-joint is now. The factory pump can be tossed, a REALLY nice option is to fill that hole with an A/C compressor for a roof-mount Red-Dot

. Most of the ones up in my neighborhood are Wheatlands, though, and they used a split tie-rod with the shorter wheelbase front axle, rather than the solid tie-rod with a short arm and a drag link (?) to the steering valve, so it takes either a parts tractor or some butchering to mount regular cylinders. I have a late 8-speed factory cab 1032 that's basically all-original I want to fix up for a backup loader tractor, and steering is first on the list - I'd like to use a regular double-ended power-steering cylinder and separate tie-rods, just haven't figured out yet exactly how to do it. If anybody has any ideas or pictures of upgrades, LET ME KNOW, Id sure appreciate it!!
With improved steering, they actually make a bang-up loader tractor, considering they really weren't designed to be one - who needs a left hand reverser when you can run the gearshift (s) with your left hand anyhow? Front spindles are a little light, I've seen some converted to 70-series axles, some converted to JD 5010/20 axles if they really wanted beefy (and didn't care about ground clearance or adjustment). I've seen several different valve mounts, the last one I did was an open station, mounted it down low and angled up, with long rods to a basically homemade joystick control, separate lever for third-function. Can't find a picture of it, will post it if I can find it. that kept the oil drips down low, and kept the RH side of the platform open.
I've always heard loaders on 'em were a bad thing, flex the block and take out the mains, but I've had several that got used pretty hard (hard enough to break a spindle or axle housing now and then) and never took an engine out - could be the loader design, too. The factory Case loaders were GB's, I think? and pretty common, not that tough to find in GB paint. I've also had Du-Al 340s on a couple, they were fine for many years, but I've been told to absolutely stay away from the FACTORY mounts on a 3000-3400 quick-tach, they were prone to breaking the castings - counted too much on the tractor structure, where the 340's spread the force out more. I have an auction-sale 3000 as well as a GB off an 826 IH out in the weeds, I'm still thinking I can make a clean subframe for the 3000 and make it work nicely......sure like quick-tach......
The 70-series were good tractors, better in most ways, I guess, but I always thought they were the clumsiest tractor of the era - slow steering, harder shifting, just more awkward. All depends on what you use them for, though, the 70s were definitely better starting with the pencil injectors and much more comfortable if you were farming with it.