Case 970 powershift issue

[RFgarage]

Any help greatly appreciated. 75 case (white) 970 powershift. Tractor runs great, everything works…..sorta. Upon cold start 1st and 3rd powershifts are sluggish coming to life until messing with it and warming up a bit ( even in 90 degrees summer weather) then it will sorta snap to life and be good all day. So I removed C2 spool (common to both 1&2 ps) from valve body and cleaned/polished…..very little to no change. Checked relief valves in hyd filters……both there but installed upside down so fixed that with new OEM filters. Fluid is new. Used all last summer worked fine other than slight issue stated. Plowed snow last winter with back blade no prob other than usual. This spring went to unhook blade and lift arms only lift if you shove powershift into 2 sitting still and trans press gauge dips to yellow/red until shifted to 2 and it jumps back to green. Sorta left it sit most the summer didn’t need it too badly. Went to move it couple months ago and works fine like before. Not sure wat I need to chase here to make it reliable. Thanks!

 

[RFgarage]

Any help greatly appreciated. 75 case (white) 970 powershift. Tractor runs great, everything works…..sorta. Upon cold start 1st and 3rd powershifts are sluggish coming to life until messing with it and warming up a bit ( even in 90 degrees summer weather) then it will sorta snap to life and be good all day. So I removed C2 spool (common to both 1&2 ps) from valve body and cleaned/polished…..very little to no change. Checked relief valves in hyd filters……both there but installed upside down so fixed that with new OEM filters. Fluid is new. Used all last summer worked fine other than slight issue stated. Plowed snow last winter with back blade no prob other than usual. This spring went to unhook blade and lift arms only lift if you shove powershift into 2 sitting still and trans press gauge dips to yellow/red until shifted to 2 and it jumps back to green. Sorta left it sit most the summer didn’t need it too badly. Went to move it couple months ago and works fine like before. Not sure wat I need to chase here to make it reliable. Thanks!

Sorry typo…..removed c2 spool (common to both 1&3 ps)

 

[mEl]

C2 circuit is getting rid of oil somehow, this may sound stupid but the first thing I would check is the clutch spool travel, the spool contains a modulation circuit consisting of a point and spring that control clutch pressure modulation so you can start out smoothly, if the spool is not bottoming in the bore the point can leave oil by. This by no means the only thing it could be but I have seen problems by people putting a return spring on the pedal that does not pull the pedal clear up. Check that the pedal is pulling the spool clear out till it stops against the body and in till it bottoms the other way, there are clutch pedal stop bolts that control how far the pedal travels, they should be set so they just stop the pedal when the spool bottoms both ways, the stop bolt at keeps the pedal from coming up could be screwed in till it is not touching the firewall and left that way. This is just the starting point, but it's easy and will eliminate that as being an issue, be careful about polishing the spools as they can be ruined easily by dulling the sharp edges which are designed to be sharp to help clean the bores. The spools are never the problem, the problem is the soft aluminum body gets a speck of something hard imbedded and sticks the spool, using a screw in the end of the spool and working it back and forth till it frees up is preferable.

 

[RFgarage]

C2 circuit is getting rid of oil somehow, this may sound stupid but the first thing I would check is the clutch spool travel, the spool contains a modulation circuit consisting of a point and spring that control clutch pressure modulation so you can start out smoothly, if the spool is not bottoming in the bore the point can leave oil by. This by no means the only thing it could be but I have seen problems by people putting a return spring on the pedal that does not pull the pedal clear up. Check that the pedal is pulling the spool clear out till it stops against the body and in till it bottoms the other way, there are clutch pedal stop bolts that control how far the pedal travels, they should be set so they just stop the pedal when the spool bottoms both ways, the stop bolt at keeps the pedal from coming up could be screwed in till it is not touching the firewall and left that way. This is just the starting point, but it's easy and will eliminate that as being an issue, be careful about polishing the spools as they can be ruined easily by dulling the sharp edges which are designed to be sharp to help clean the bores. The spools are never the problem, the problem is the soft aluminum body gets a speck of something hard imbedded and sticks the spool, using a screw in the end of the spool and working it back and forth till it frees up is preferable.

I will def check that! And when I had that spool out I was nervous and did just that I polished it with rag and wd40 and threaded screw in the end and turned/pushed/pulled repeatedly then cleaned with brake clean and dipped in hyd oil last time it went back in. I’ve heard you can get updated spools with more square edge but can’t find em anyplace

 

[RFgarage]

I will def check that! And when I had that spool out I was nervous and did just that I polished it with rag and wd40 and threaded screw in the end and turned/pushed/pulled repeatedly then cleaned with brake clean and dipped in hyd oil last time it went back in. I’ve heard you can get updated spools with more square edge but can’t find em anyplace

Oh and to add to original post since you mention clutch spool, ever since I’ve owned it you gotta put ur toe under pedal to bring it up whole way I figured just wore out spring but maybe something more there like you said???….