Case IH 395

[Texasmark]

Well I was mowing today and started hearing some screeching coming from the PTO. I had checked the Hyd fluid on the dip stick and it was clear but it lies due to sediment falliing to the botton of the sump and all. So I decided to do the last fluid change that I had neglected..hyd fluid and filter.

Well the fluid was black and the filter was plenty dirty and probably blocked to some extent. I got the cannister all cleaned up and filter installed and all that and went to put in the new O-ring where the cannister mounts to the sump casting. The old )-ring had apparently been on there so long that it has glued itself to the casting. I tried several tools to see if I couldn't get it loose so that I could go around the circumference and break it free.....no dice! Besides that lying on your back and trying to see what your doing with 82 year old eyeballs and bifocal glasses just added to he problem.

So my fellow YTers, I am open for suggestions on how you get an 1/8th of an inch thick, approximately 8 in diameter glued down into the cut out in a casting, to decide to come out.

One other question on X95 Case IH tractors: I found one very large diameter drain plug at the rear of the transmission on the bottom of the main casting. I couldn't find another. The service manual said that the transmission has a capacity of 9 gallons. The dipstick was well over the full mark. I got about 6 gallons out of that drain. So is there a separate drain in the differential area? I'm 3 or so gallons short of the book value of fluid.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[Janicholson]

I made a thin edge chisel by using a pretty good flat blade screw driver (about 3/8 wide) the tip was shaped like a chisel and made at an angle to cut as it is tapped around the Now solid Ring. I can control the depth of cut to avoid nicking the slot. Jim

 

[caterpillar guy]

In all the years i've dealt with those rings in the cast groove be it oil filters or transmission filters. I've never had one I could not get out with a screw driver or a pick like for o-rings. The system must have gotten real hot in the past if it is that hard it will not dig out. I don't change them every time I have the canister off either. Maybe once every so many years if they don't leak.

 

[Texasmark]

That's what I was thinking about. Sees like a workable solution. Will fabricate a tool this AM and give it a shot. I have a HF head mounted, tiltable LED that can help to get some light on the subject.ld Thanks!

 

[Texasmark]

pick like for Orings Are you referring to pick tools like dentists use? I tried that and it wasn't able to get it to penetrate. Will try different shapes. I also used a box cutter with a new blade to try to slice a place in the gasket so that I could get down to metal and so far no luck with that. Better access would really help as this canister is just forward of the rear axle and the tire is in the way. Thanks

 

[JimB2]

Hi Mark, welcome to YT.

Re hydraulic drain plugs, see photo below, Number 1 is not clear in the photo but it is just below the right axle housing, #2 and 3 are easy to locate.
There are three different chambers that hold hydraulic oil in that series of IH/CIH tractors. There is a transfer pump in the bottom of the chamber where the hydraulic dipstick is located and the transfer pump is supposed to keep the other chambers supplied with oil.
The proper way to check the hydraulic oil on that series of tractor is with tractor on lever surface and sitting over night, check hydraulic dipstick oil level, then start tractor and let it run at about 1400 RPM for 3-4 minutes, then shut off engine and re-check hydraulic dipstick, the lever should be lower than the first checked level, transfer pump has distributed oil to the other chambers.

Does your Parking Brake work? The biggest problem with that IH/CIH series tractors is the Parking Brake can be left ON and the tractor driven and the ground up parking brake band materials ends up in the hydraulic oil. That is probably the black material that was in your old oil. The 95 Series had that flashing Park Brake warning light on the dash but it bulb can burn out or the sensor switch fail. It will take about 3 filter changes to cleanup the hydraulic oil.

Re filter O-ring, same as Caterpillar guy says.

Note, on photo is says 5 gal but that is Imperial gallons so a little over 6 US gallons.

 

[Texasmark]

Well after discussing a fabricated removal tool on here and thinking about it last night....rather than sleeping....you know how that goes, I remembered I had a set of hand held wood carving tools. As luck would have it I went right to it (amazed at that)......you know the senario....you know you have a tool to do a job but you forgot where you put it.

Kit contains 11 knives for different carving tasks and one was a u shaped carver of the exact dimensions to fit the slot.

With that sharp edge I was able to raise a piece of gasket and like you would open a can of GI rations with the supplied opener, I se-sawed (jack-knifed) the gasket out.....piece of cake.....boy was I happy.......I wasn't happy, I was ELATED....had to stop and catch my breath........ Got the 2 and 3 chambers drained but now that Jim pitched in, I will go back out and drain the front cavity before I fire it up and check for leaks. The SM that I bought shows 9 gallons of THD. I put 9 in and the dipstick level was way over the check marks on the stick......same place it was when I bought the tractor.....somebody got their wires crossed in the translation apparently with it only needing 6 US gallons, and as the dipstick shows, that is apparently the correct answer.

I really appreciate you guy's help in solving this as it is the pasture mowing season and I bought this tractor to do my mowing jobs with the shredder permanemtly connected.....reducing my implement change-out requirements which is getting a real PIA working alone as I get older......but I'm not alone.....seems lots of us are getting in the same boat. Question is, how long will we last?

The OEM dash was toast after 40 years of sitting out in the weather. I adapted a one piece Ford instrument panel that I put in all my Fords when I buy them and have adapted it to this tractor. With what you said, I will add a bulb for parking brake ON. It works ok but sometimes I forget to release it.....I will be more attentive to that at least till I get the warning light installed.

So hats off to you guys again........what would we do without each other?

 

[JimB2]

It does not damage anything if the hydraulic oil is over filled by 5 gallons, only your pocket book.
In fact it is recommended to over fill if the tractor has the Fast FWD/REV option and you have hilly fields.

 

[Texasmark]

Thanks for that followup. The tractor has a hydraulic oil cooler and the other day after running I decided to check it with a non-contact infrared thermometer. Temp was around 175F on a 100* day so looks like since the PO was running it that way and it stays cool, probably the volume has something to do with it, and the money is spent, and the fluid is added, looks like it will prolong my next change. I figured worst case would be a leaking shaft seal somewhere along the power line, but haven't had any reason to worry about that.

 

[JimB2]

The hydraulic oil gets very hot during hot weather so much so you don't want to touch the trans/diff case, the rads can be a PITA to clean as they are a three core rad, at least they where on the older 454 and 684 models.