CASE VAC ENGINE SLEEVE INSTALL

I am attempting to install a used set of engine sleeves in my Dad’s VAC14. I don’t have the money to buy a new engine rebuild kit.
I cleaned and wire brushed sleeves. Cleaned all of the fits in the engine block. I lubricated and installed o-rings on the sleeves. Installed sleeves in engine block using a wooden block and pry bar, but cannot get them to seat with .004 inch protruding. Best I can get is .012 inch. Never worked on a sleeved engine. Is .004 absolute??? Stumped 🤔
 
I am attempting to install a used set of engine sleeves in my Dad’s VAC14. I don’t have the money to buy a new engine rebuild kit.
I cleaned and wire brushed sleeves. Cleaned all of the fits in the engine block. I lubricated and installed o-rings on the sleeves. Installed sleeves in engine block using a wooden block and pry bar, but cannot get them to seat with .004 inch protruding. Best I can get is .012 inch. Never worked on a sleeved engine. Is .004 absolute??? Stumped 🤔
A lot of times the head will set the sleeves as they need to be when you torque it down
 
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I am attempting to install a used set of engine sleeves in my Dad’s VAC14. I don’t have the money to buy a new engine rebuild kit.
I cleaned and wire brushed sleeves. Cleaned all of the fits in the engine block. I lubricated and installed o-rings on the sleeves. Installed sleeves in engine block using a wooden block and pry bar, but cannot get them to seat with .004 inch protruding. Best I can get is .012 inch. Never worked on a sleeved engine. Is .004 absolute??? Stumped 🤔
Common procedure is to "clamp" the sleeves down with some bolts with large flat washers, using cylinder head bolt holes near the sleeves, then measure the "stand out".

OBVIOUSLY some common sense needs to be used not to ralph the bolts down so tight that the washer breaks a chunk out of the flange.

Have you done that?
 
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I am attempting to install a used set of engine sleeves in my Dad’s VAC14. I don’t have the money to buy a new engine rebuild kit.
I cleaned and wire brushed sleeves. Cleaned all of the fits in the engine block. I lubricated and installed o-rings on the sleeves. Installed sleeves in engine block using a wooden block and pry bar, but cannot get them to seat with .004 inch protruding. Best I can get is .012 inch. Never worked on a sleeved engine. Is .004 absolute??? Stumped 🤔
What did u lube the o rings with , hope not oil! Brake fluid or dish soap is acceptable.
 
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Common procedure is to "clamp" the sleeves down with some bolts with large flat washers, using cylinder head bolt holes near the sleeves, then measure the "stand out".

OBVIOUSLY some common sense needs to be used not to ralph the bolts down so tight that the washer breaks a chunk out of the flange.

Have you done that?
Will give it a try
 
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You better pull at least one back out and make sure you didn't cut the rings on the way in. Make sure the bevel in the lower bore of the block is clean and shiny with no burrs. Could have rolled one or more of the rings and is jamming in the bore. Test fit the sleeves with no seals... you should be able to spin the sleeve in the block easily. If the counter bore is dirty, making the sleeve tight, use a little lapping compound in the counterbore and invert the sleeve in the counterbore and rotate it back and forth just enough to remove the rust. Clean off all traces of the compound and try it again. If all is well, re-fit the o-rings and lube them with some non-petroleum lube to keep them from swelling ahead of time.
 
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A lot of times the head will set the sleeves as they need to be when you torque it down
Ya maybe the backyard mechanic’s do it that way. Never even heard of doing such a thing. So then what ??? Pull the head off to measure the protrusion ?
 
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You better pull at least one back out and make sure you didn't cut the rings on the way in. Make sure the bevel in the lower bore of the block is clean and shiny with no burrs. Could have rolled one or more of the rings and is jamming in the bore. Test fit the sleeves with no seals... you should be able to spin the sleeve in the block easily. If the counter bore is dirty, making the sleeve tight, use a little lapping compound in the counterbore and invert the sleeve in the counterbore and rotate it back and forth just enough to remove the rust. Clean off all traces of the compound and try it again. If all is well, re-fit the o-rings and lube them with some non-petroleum lube to keep them from swelling ahead of time.
Thank you. Good information
 
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As matthies asked: Did you trial fit the sleeves (without the seals)?

Are your seals/O-rings the correct Case part numbers for the engine, not just O-rings that go in the grooves?

Did you fully compare dimensions of the sleeves you are installing to the old ones?
 
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Sorry didn't see that in the first post. Did you happen to trial fit the sleeves in the block without the orings to see how they fit. I always did this and then moved them around from hole to hole to get the same or close to the same protrusion.
Yes. They dropped all the way in. I could spin them freely.
 
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Common procedure is to "clamp" the sleeves down with some bolts with large flat washers, using cylinder head bolt holes near the sleeves, then measure the "stand out".

OBVIOUSLY some common sense needs to be used not to ralph the bolts down so tight that the washer breaks a chunk out of the flange.

Have you done that?
Clamped sleeve in one cylinder. Left it overnight. Next day the sleeve did seat properly.
It appears that it needs constant pressure to overcome friction of the o rings.
 
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I did trial fit sleeves without o-rings. They fell in freely and I was able to spin them by hand. O-rings have proper case #. New sleeves measure same as old ones.
 
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ok, so we did not have proper info. here right off the bat. now you know for next time . fit sleeves without o rings for the protrusion measurement.
 
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Did you mark liners so they are fitted in same position?
Bores wear oval
are you keeping same piston to same liner?
Are you fitting new rings?
I will admit that I have bad feeling about this
I hope I am wrong
 
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