CaseIH 485 steering cylinder mount

[sundy58]

While I am trying to find a place to rebuild a cylinder for my loader I tackled the leak on the end of my power steering cylinder. So I pulled it of the axel which is not technically hard just a PITA. There are two bolt holes I assume but only one had a bolt and that might explain the extreme slop in the steering. I noticed the yoke on one end of the ram has threads and I unscrewed it a viola! A bad oring. I got my oring kit out and found an appropriate size and I'm ready to go back together, tomorrow. I went out the next day and it was a cluster, I got things out of order and called it a day early. I go out the third day with a plan in mind and I executed that plan pretty well. After a couple of hours it was back in/on the front axle, bolts and fittings tight and rechecked. I got it of the jack stands and started driving. I got turned 180 degrees backed and filled a bit and got headed the direction I wanted. I went about 10 feet and the cylinder fell out of the bracket hydrulic fluid spraying and/or broken fittings and hose. I have not looked at it since Thursday. I am asking about the second bolt, what is it? I think the one bolt must have pulled out of the tapped threads and now I will need some shade tree engineering. I have a screenshot of the upper and lower bracket that sandwhich the power steering cylinder. There is a tapped hole and a through hole in the lower part and a tapped hole matching the through hole in the upper part. Any help with how to get this mess straightened out is appreciated.

The 1, and the 2 are zert fittings. There is no part number or decription in the online parts manual I used.

Where should I go to buy a service manual and parts manual for my tractor?

 

[caterpillar guy]

The pivot is in the front then with the top bracket in place the bottom one has 2 bolts in it. Our 574 they are 1/2 inch. Not sure what they used on yours. We had to loctite the bolts and make a locking plate to keep them in or they would come loose and fall out. Once the bolts get so loose the cylinder cam work around in there and probably break the fitting rather than turn the wheels. The shaft is supposed to be stationary and the barrel does the moving.But if the cylinder is loose in there when the bolts come loose or fall out anything can happen. That bar lokig thing that hange down between the pivot and the back of the bracket should have a bolt in it through that bottom plate the cylinder pivots in. The plate also kept the bushing in on the bttom as it would work loose and fall out then everything would go haywire up in there. There is a grease fitting for that pivot shaft in the front. IT should be an angled on of 90 degrees turned so it points out to an angle. Usually up in behind the lines/hoses for the steering cylinder. While your in there might as well change those pivot bushings in there they are a pian to get out they go in pretty easy.

 

[sundy58]

The one bolt I had was 9/16. I guess I need to take the top piece to a machine shop and have them put helicoils in. The threaded hole in the bottom piece is confusing me. Somebody before must have been even more confused than me.

 

[JimB2]

Hi, does your 485 look like photo below? The older 54/74 Series had a locking strip for the bolts #2 in photo below.
Youtube for 495 PS cylinder repair:

There are free downloads of European IH 74 Series manuals at link below, the 85 Series has some improvements and changes from 74/84 series tractors.

Link: European IH 54/74 Manual Download:

D239 / 674 Engine Manual pdf

------------------------------------ Post updated with links to the engine manuals, thanks Oleman! I've run these through text recognition; can be searched in PDF now. ------------------------------------ Hi Folks, Trying to find a PDF copy of the D239 engine manual for my 674, need to replace th...

www.redpowermagazine.com

 

[sundy58]

Yes, that is the setup. I guess the threads in the top cast piece are stripped out. I'm going to talk to some local machine shops about possible solutions.

 

[sundy58]

The story continues. I bought a steering cylinder from Amazon. The only problem I have is that the end of the shaft with threads must be slightly undersized. I can't get it to stop leaking. I have tried several o-rings, German spec RTV, hard-setting gasket maker, and nothing has lasted.

Is there a tape similar to plumbing Teflon tape made for hydraulics?

As always, any help is appreciated.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I would send it back.IF you mean the end that screws into the fork.there is an o-ring on the shaft goes over the threads and seals against the fork . It has to be quite tight so it doesn't turn and unscrew from the fork as you drive. We have had that happen too. the view in JimB2's picture is the bottom view of the mechanism. And it sounds like you have one bolt that is missing or the threads are shot. Just drill it for a helicoil and that will be the easiest method to fix that. Yes it is a Chinese puzzle to put together The pivot shaft in the front for thr cylinder has to go into the top plate so the plate is tight to the end of that casting coming down from the top. The cylinder has to go up into the top piece then holding all that the bottom bar with the pivot pin/shaft needs to go up into the top pivot bar with the cylinder all while you're holding the rest of it up there. Using a piec of threaded rod would help in that front holle since you can then adjust things as you close up the gaps with a nut. then when you get it all together and the second bolt in and tightened up some you can swap out the rod for the bolt for that hole. Cheap after market cylinder might need a different fork if the threads are different. I would unpin the fork and turn the steering wheel to get the fork off the anchor point so I could unscrew the fork rather than taking the whole mess down to fix that. With the wheels turned so you have enough room to get the fork off the anchor point you could then unscrew the fork. Much easier than the whole job of getting the puzzle back together.